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Topic Review (Newest First)
Today 09:40 AM
Rip VW John,

Because I try to be frugal also, my choice would be to tear down the Caddy pump and rebuild it! It sounds like it has dry bushings in the motor. I have seen a lot of that with old electrical motors. They usually use bushings impregnated with oil and the oil get old and dries out and causes the shaft to bind. I have also seen motors with ball bearings do the same thing with grease when it dries out.


In the interest of frugality I would take the Caddy pump and tear it down and clean the stuffing out of it. it may not need much at all. If it turns out fu- barred then on to the next option. I might even consider a Bone yard pump. Find something as new as possible and use that.. Lots of options there..
Today 08:21 AM
Too Many Projects Did a little research too and FL and CA are the hot spots for convertible parts. They all claim the cylinders are new USA made, but I don't see that claim on the pumps.

Sounds like new is the route you should take. Sticking with a well established, highly reputable company should be safe. Some offer 5 year warranty, where others are only 2-3.
Today 07:57 AM
John long
Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
Damn....you'll be waiting at least two to three months for that chrome....
Yup. And my alignment pins for the top are there. I may take soft hardware grade bolts and try to make temporary replacements.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
Rebuilding 67 year old cylinders and pump would, most likely, cost about that anyway. The big question is, are the components in the new kit rebuilt originals, or cheap, Chinese replacements ? If the "new" stuff is inferior aftermarket, I would have the originals rebuilt.
My stuff is/was way beyond rebuilding. There are two companies that specialize in convertible parts. They advertise their parts are American made. For all I know both companies parts are coming out of the same plants. I just don't know. Hydro-E-lectric is one and has been around for years.

The Cadillac pump I have runs but slowly and sounds like it is laboring. I suspect it is pretty corroded inside. It very well could be cleaned and rebuilt if I decided to fool with it.

John
Today 06:36 AM
Too Many Projects
Quote:
Originally Posted by John long View Post
That is a good question Rip. They make the original pump in a 12v version for $239 and I have one out of a mid 60's Cadillac which needs to be rebuilt. They do make a rebuild kit for them though. I definitely will use a 12V pump. The truth is, the cylinders don't know what kind of pump is pushing them.

You can buy all new cylinders, pump, and hydraulic lines for about $600 bucks which is not what a "frugal" guy wants to do but I suspect it would be smart.

John
Rebuilding 67 year old cylinders and pump would, most likely, cost about that anyway. The big question is, are the components in the new kit rebuilt originals, or cheap, Chinese replacements ? If the "new" stuff is inferior aftermarket, I would have the originals rebuilt.
Today 04:08 AM
123pugsy Damn....you'll be waiting at least two to three months for that chrome....
Yesterday 09:47 PM
John long That is a good question Rip. They make the original pump in a 12v version for $239 and I have one out of a mid 60's Cadillac which needs to be rebuilt. They do make a rebuild kit for them though. I definitely will use a 12V pump. The truth is, the cylinders don't know what kind of pump is pushing them.

You can buy all new cylinders, pump, and hydraulic lines for about $600 bucks which is not what a "frugal" guy wants to do but I suspect it would be smart.

John
Yesterday 09:09 PM
Rip VW John, A question for you? Isn't a 53 Chevy a 6 volt deal. How are you going to deal with a 6 volt pump in 12 volt electrical system? You going to use something like a volt a drop? Or do you have a 12 volt pump? Just kind of curious that's all.
Yesterday 07:58 PM
John long Several things are happening on Precious.

Steve finished my installation of the park brake. I had installed a bell crank and cables to the crossmember and Steve mounted a park brake pedal and ran the front cable to the bell crank. That was a really cool surprise.

The heat/air unit came in and Steve has the engine brackets on and the condenser mounted. This is a major step forward.

I took my convertible top assembly to the sand blaster's today. They say a week and a half to do it. It's hard to believe but they estimated $80 bucks to blast it. We will see.

Today, I also found out the chrome plater that has my pieces was shut down by the government on the 23rd. The city doesn't think my chrome is essential. I have no idea when I will get my chrome back.

It is time to order the convertible hydraulics for the car also but my wallet is not wanting to open up.

John
03-24-2020 04:21 PM
MGK I've had to get 3 in the time I've been working on mine, glad the metal work is done. Still donate blood to car occasionally. My hide isn't as thick as it used to be.
03-24-2020 04:10 PM
John long
Quote:
Originally Posted by MGK View Post
I hope your tetanus shot is up to date.
What on earth are you talking about? This thing is a cream puff!

John
03-24-2020 04:01 PM
MGK I hope your tetanus shot is up to date.
03-24-2020 03:55 PM
Too Many Projects I have been doing that for m any years, especially with broken bolts.
Caterpillar had a problem with the exhaust manifold studs snapping off over time from the expansion/contraction they experienced. Sometime in the early 90's they got the bright idea to replace the steel studs with stainless. My '92 had those studs when most of them snapped in about '97. I spent about $100 on special titanium drill bits to drill stainless and work them out with left hand bits and extractors. Took 2 DAYS to get 12 studs out and replaced !! The replacements were forged steel again and when they broke, I was in my new shop with the mig and built them up long enough to grab and the heat released the threads. Still took a day to do the job, but only a couple hours to get the studs out.
03-24-2020 03:40 PM
John long Today, I finished stripping the header bow, getting it ready for sand blasting. One of the things that slowed the process was trying to make sure I did not damage any of the threads as I took it apart.

Many people drill the screws out but I like to use my MIG for the stubborn ones.

The first thing is to take a cut off disc, roloc, or flap disc and knock the rust off the head of the screw. Then just zap the top of the screw 1/2 second with your MIG. Keep it set pretty hot. As the glow diminishes, zap it again. Do this a few times until you have it built up enough to get a hold of it with your vice grips. The expansion and contraction of the welding and the build up on the screw head will usually make removal a snap.









It took a while but all screws, attachments, and weather strips are now removed from the header bow. No threads damaged.






Time to move on to the rest of the bows so these pieces can find their way to the sandblaster's. While there is quite a bit of repair work required on the ends of the bow, it appears to be pretty simple and straight forward.

John
03-23-2020 12:04 AM
NEW INTERIORS Looks great Mr. John.. It's fun when it get's to this point.. Now you can look back and see all the hard work come together..
03-22-2020 02:16 PM
John long
Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
I have only did one convertible top, yep, I was blown away with the complexity of it. Chopping a top is childs play next to doing one of those!

I was damn proud I was able to pull it off!

Brian
Not only did you pull it off, You did a fine job of it!

John
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