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Topic Review (Newest First)
09-12-2019 09:47 AM
Ray Bell
Quote:
Originally posted by '49 Ford Coupe
Most of what everyone is saying here is correct. Maybe you can get a few more ideas here. How I fixed my problems..
https://49fordcoupe.smugmug.com/Fighting-Vapor-Lock/
I notice that the vapour return filter is mounted in a way that it can't possibly work there.

These need to be mounted vertically so the vapour bleed-off is at the top.
09-12-2019 07:39 AM
fedtrucker
Quote:
Originally Posted by '49 Ford Coupe View Post
Most of what everyone is saying here is correct. Maybe you can get a few more ideas here. How I fixed my problems..
https://49fordcoupe.smugmug.com/Fighting-Vapor-Lock/
I do have hei and had to replace the ignition coil a while ago cause the battery wire was all burnt. Good to know.
09-12-2019 04:49 AM
jseabolt
Quote:
Originally Posted by fedtrucker View Post
so if the summer fuel change over isnt til june theres a good chance i have winter mix in my tank. Very helpful. Thank you.
I was running winter gas in my Ford when this vapor lock incident happened in May 2003.

I *think* the gas I had in my Ford the other day when this happened was purchased in October.

Yes I realize that's considered "old gas".

Dad use to have a 76 Chevy pickup 454 big block. It was actually setup to run leaded fuel.

This thing never vapor locked but experienced developed "run-on" in the late 1980s. About the time they started to phase out leaded fuel. After a few years the problem went away. I guess gasoline got better as time went on.
09-12-2019 04:45 AM
jseabolt
Quote:
Originally Posted by MouseFink View Post
I had a 1967 Rochester Q-jet and it did the same thing as you described.

I removed the little bronze filter in the carburetor inlet and installed a in-line Fuel filter and that fixed it. Those bronze filters in the carburetor inlet wil not pass moisture and will stop up with a little condensation in the fuel system.
Strange. I figured bronze wouldn't absorb water.

One year I forgot to top off the tank in my riding mower and next spring my mower ran a couple of laps and started acting like it was running out of gas. I siphoned the tank but when I pulled the hose off past the fuel filter to let the remainder hit the ground, no fuel ran out past the filter yet the filter looked OK.

I put some "different" gas in the tank and a new filter and mowed for about three hours.

Parked the mower for a couple of weeks. Same thing happened.

To me it looked like the filter media became saturated with water and gas wouldn't pass through it. I also ran into this same issue with two cycle fuel. I was using a filter with some kind of foam media and the oil blinded the filter over.

Installed the old filter on the mower, strained all my fuel through one of those Mr. Funnels that removes water and have had no issues since. Since then I always top my tank off in my mowers before putting them up for the season.

I was running 100% gas BTW.

Sometimes I wonder if E10 is actually beneficial when it comes to water in the tank. Where water and gas won't mix so any condensation just sinks to the bottom where lf there is water in the tank, it will attach to ethanol and burn off and sink to the bottom.

The engine may not run very well but water won't burn at all. That's supposed to be the theory behind adding "Dry gas" or "Heet".

I've wondered if that stuff that is supposed to prevent "phase separation" like BG and Stabil actually works or is it just snake oil. By adding this stuff is supposed to allow the ethanol/water and gas to mix.

I never buy new gas for my riding mowers. Any old fuel I drain out of my cars get's strained using my Mr. Funnel and poured into my lawnmowers. I've never had an issue otherwise running junk fuel in riding mower.
09-11-2019 09:07 PM
'49 Ford Coupe Most of what everyone is saying here is correct. Maybe you can get a few more ideas here. How I fixed my problems..
https://49fordcoupe.smugmug.com/Fighting-Vapor-Lock/
09-11-2019 06:48 PM
fedtrucker
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray Bell View Post
Buying fuel only once in three months can't be much of a help...
Thats true but i havent been able to drive it and running it in the garage doesnt use much gas. Its finally getting low though. Just in time for winter gas again.
09-11-2019 05:02 PM
Ray Bell Buying fuel only once in three months can't be much of a help...
09-11-2019 04:41 PM
Dfish1247 The heat you get from after shutting off the engine and no radiator fan blowing to get rid of it. Heat soak would have been the appropriate term, my bad.

That stinks winter gas has worse characteristics boiling wise than summer gas. But, a 20 degree day will cool stuff down far quicker than a 90 degree day.

I’ve hat an 88 1500 I changed to a carb a few years ago, never had any boiling or vapor lock problems at all, and I run a mechanical fuel pump as well. Oh, it has the clear plastic filter too, and none of it is routed the best either.
09-11-2019 01:09 PM
fedtrucker
Quote:
Originally Posted by 55 Tony View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dfish1247 View Post
If you aren't in any danger of needing this truck for a daily driver, wait through the winter and see if it quits. Allegedly, gas formulas change and the colder weather will knock stagnant heat down quickly. See if it quits then.

Not sure what you mean about winter gas formulations and stagnant heat, but with the switch to winter gas, they blend in even more butane (the largest contributor to vapor lock) since temps are cooler they can get away with it. (Butane is plentiful and inexpensive.) So on an exceptionally warm winter day with winter gas, you have the same problem. It's REALLY bad when you have a full tank of winter gas when summer comes around. Some blends (depending on what state and county you buy gas) of winter gas will boil at as low as 100F. If it's a cold day, no problem, but if it gets too warm out, well you know.

Generally speaking, large hot cities with pollution problems require gas with higher REID vapor pressure values. This is EPA controlled and it cuts down on your gasoline vapors that leak out and contribute to smog. So if you are outside the city limits, sometimes buying gas in the city will help your problems with vapor lock/percolation. Here is a chart for summer gas, I'm sure you can find winter gas chart if you look. Lower numbers basically mean it wont boil as easy.

https://www.epa.gov/gasoline-standar...pressure#table
so if the summer fuel change over isnt til june theres a good chance i have winter mix in my tank. Very helpful. Thank you.
09-11-2019 01:01 PM
fedtrucker
Quote:
Originally Posted by MouseFink View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by fedtrucker View Post
Already have an inline filter so that base is covered
Do you have a Q-jet and did you remove the bronze filter in the carburetor inlet?


.
Its a holley four barrel. No carb filter just the inline filter
09-11-2019 11:16 AM
MouseFink Merely installing an in-line filter will not solve the problem. Remove the bronze inlet filter.



.
09-11-2019 11:15 AM
MouseFink
Quote:
Originally Posted by fedtrucker View Post
Already have an inline filter so that base is covered
Do you have a Q-jet and did you remove the bronze filter in the carburetor inlet?


.
09-11-2019 10:43 AM
55 Tony
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dfish1247 View Post
If you aren't in any danger of needing this truck for a daily driver, wait through the winter and see if it quits. Allegedly, gas formulas change and the colder weather will knock stagnant heat down quickly. See if it quits then.

Not sure what you mean about winter gas formulations and stagnant heat, but with the switch to winter gas, they blend in even more butane (the largest contributor to vapor lock) since temps are cooler they can get away with it. (Butane is plentiful and inexpensive.) So on an exceptionally warm winter day with winter gas, you have the same problem. It's REALLY bad when you have a full tank of winter gas when summer comes around. Some blends (depending on what state and county you buy gas) of winter gas will boil at as low as 100F. If it's a cold day, no problem, but if it gets too warm out, well you know.

Generally speaking, large hot cities with pollution problems require gas with higher REID vapor pressure values. This is EPA controlled and it cuts down on your gasoline vapors that leak out and contribute to smog. So if you are outside the city limits, sometimes buying gas in the city will help your problems with vapor lock/percolation. Here is a chart for summer gas, I'm sure you can find winter gas chart if you look. Lower numbers basically mean it wont boil as easy.

https://www.epa.gov/gasoline-standar...pressure#table
09-11-2019 09:28 AM
fedtrucker Could it just be poor gas quality? I filled up at speedway last before this started happening. That was late may or early june. It started happening that week. I usually go to shell. I live in michigan so maybe it was old winter formula gas? Just a thought im throwing out there.
09-11-2019 08:44 AM
Dfish1247 As mentioned, the filler tube will be fine. I will add it probably wouldn't hurt after you get the filler tube off and away from the truck to wash it out, let it dry some, wash it out, then give it the test with a grill lighter. Can't be too careful with gas and welders.

If you aren't in any danger of needing this truck for a daily driver, wait through the winter and see if it quits. Allegedly, gas formulas change and the colder weather will knock stagnant heat down quickly. See if it quits then.

One good thing about an electric pump is it will run when the key is switched on vs having to turn the motor over, pushing any fumes out of the way and refilling with gas.
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