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Topic Review (Newest First)
09-18-2019 04:07 PM
d.b. cooper i may just go that route.

i am familiar, at least visually, with the Colt 45. But was/is this an altered, gasser, or funnycar or all 3? The tilt front end suggests gasser, but there's nothing that says an altered or fc can't have a tilt frontend?

Also, i hate to rub it in, but will anyways since i'm GM (specifically chevy) biased; The car had a chevy engine?
09-12-2019 06:02 AM
reskin an altered

I worked with Joe Davis (RIP) who was partners with wes Ingram and ran a Fiat altered. Joe was a supervisor at the Mustang assembly plant and the first time a New Mustang ran at the old Fremont drag strip everyone stopped to watch a stock mustang on the drag strip. Jo decided to build a mustang gasser, He tried to get scrap body panes from weld test but Ford wouldn't let him get scrap out of the dumpster so he ordered new skin panels and built the Colt 45 Mustang. body and mounted it on the altered chassis.
09-12-2019 04:11 AM
[email protected] Bought a 4 spd COPO Nova in 1970. Then added a 454 with headers and 10" slicks with slapper bars. Broke/cracked the body/quarter panel seam at the top of the rear quarter window.
09-11-2019 07:18 PM
bruce69camaro I actually used both, just of course not at the same time.
I hoped to get better times with the t400
09-11-2019 06:56 PM
Originally Posted by bruce69camaro View Post
If it matters, at the time I had a 68 Camaro, T-400, 12 bolt with 4.11 gears, 4 speed muncie and a 283 with a 4" bore to make a 302. It had 12.5:1 pistons, off road cam, 780 Holley. I shifted at 6000 rpm and ran a best of 13.2 in the quarter.
I wrinkled the driver side quarter in the front. Then I decided to install frame connectors.
T400 and a Muncie?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
09-11-2019 06:37 PM
bruce69camaro If it matters, at the time I had a 68 Camaro, T-400, 12 bolt with 4.11 gears, 4 speed muncie and a 283 with a 4" bore to make a 302. It had 12.5:1 pistons, off road cam, 780 Holley. I shifted at 6000 rpm and ran a best of 13.2 in the quarter.
I wrinkled the driver side quarter in the front. Then I decided to install frame connectors.
09-09-2019 01:19 PM
Originally Posted by d.b. cooper View Post
i know---my plan is stupid considering the easier/better alternatives.

But this may be the easiest way to go to make a chevette work?

i can weld.
I'm not so sure that picture is accurate. You couldn't buy the steel for that price. Alston has an online catalog.
09-09-2019 11:42 AM
d.b. cooper i know---my plan is stupid considering the easier/better alternatives.

But this may be the easiest way to go to make a chevette work?

i can weld.
09-09-2019 11:22 AM
d.b. cooper i mean the easy thing to do would be to get a g-body, doesn't have to be monte carlo or cutlass--even a 4 door would work.

zz454 big block
ATI or equivalent quality TH-350
Bolt in aftermarket 12-bolt, 3.73 or lower
11.5 x 29 inch slicks
Driveshaft and u joints, hoop, not a big deal to get off the net these days.

This combo is 100% bolt in, no need to mess with "subframe connectors" for obvious reasons and should run in the 11 sec bracket fairly easily.

But i've fallen in love with the chevette and am not giving up on it despite better logic.
09-08-2019 01:46 PM
techinspector1 When my mom passed, I was tasked with selling her Chevette. I was checking it over to see what it was worth and the wheels were loose on the drums. I got out my 4-way to tighten them, only to discover that the fellows at the tire store, with their rat-a-tat-tat air guns had tightened the wheel until the nuts went through the wheel material and bottomed on the drums. You couldn't tighten the nuts any more, and the wheels were loose. That told me all I needed to know about the integrity of a Chevette. Build a 2" x 3" chassis for it, turn the Chevette into a backyard go-kart and take Grant's advice.
09-08-2019 01:28 PM
poncho62 Age of the car and rust will have a lot to do with this too. That said, a Chevette wasn't built for this abuse. I would think you would want more than frame connectors and a cage to stiffen it.
09-08-2019 12:43 PM
fat tire I have a 68 camaro that was bought just for racing by the original owner. I know because I bought it from him.
he did some mods to the 396/375 and bumped it to about 400+
when I did the restoration of the car in 2011 I found the floor behind the drivers seat was buckled slightly
he had no frame connectors or cage
09-08-2019 11:12 AM
aisr If that Chevette's too much work, how about switching platforms?

'79-'85 Mazda RX-7 can be found cheap and has exactly the same wheelbase as a 2dr Chevette. RX-7 has a very strong unibody that does not need strengthening, and has a far larger engine bay and transmission tunnel than the Chevette. The RX-7 did have a heavier curb weight from the factory, but bear in mind that the RX-7 doesn't need added strengthening to handle V8 power and came from the factory with sheetmetal subframe connectors. Did I mention that the stock RX-7 wheelwells are big enough to fit 275/60 radials? And the tunnel is big enough to fit a T56 without modification.

I have a sbc powered '85 RX-7 that weighs 2325 with no added chassis stiffening at all. It's been V8 powered since the early '90's, had 275/60 drag radials on it since 2007, been above 700whp since 2011 when it ran it's 1st 5.70 with a 1.30 60'. No cracks or buckling in the body, doors still open/close like new, original windshield still in the car.

09-08-2019 10:01 AM
Originally Posted by d.b. cooper View Post
Sorry for the slow reply. The weekend is really the only true time i can respond and even that is not guaranteed.


And i forgot to emphasize the 444tq that the 383HT makes. Really from 2000rpm and above. That may affect the car even more than the HP?

Drag only, no street use.

i want to gear enough to run in the 11 sec bracket, but not so much to risk wheelspin---so maybe 3.73? With 11.5 x 29 slicks. Likely a custom aftermarket 12 bolt as the stock rear can't handle it. Front suspension "generally" will remain stock.

My original plan was to take two 1/4"(or thicker if necessary) metal plates, about at least 35" inches wide by about 12-14" long(or longer) and bolt or weld one to the bottom of the floor and one to the top----thus forming a "sandwich." This sandwich would be located where the rear seats would normally be. Then weld the ladder bar brackets to the bottom one. i could then use the stock floor for the coilover mounts (?).

i think have seen this setup(or similar) before on a fast nova, so i think the concept has merit. (i believe Joe Sherman's son?)

However, i'm into doing things the right way, the first time. So, if the above concept is stupid, then please indicate why so.

It may seem like i'm trying to skip steps, but for this project i just want to go bracket racing without getting too complicated.
I really can't picture your idea. Normally you use box tubing as frame ties and this gives you a place to mount a proper crossmember for the ladder bars. A lot of these unibody frame rails are little more then 10-12 gauge
sheet metal so when you start moving attachments points reinforcement needs to be done. Chevette's are tin cans. I would be considering a cage.

Somewhere in all of this your safety and the safety of those around you needs to be considered. You don't want stuff ripping out of the car at 100mph.
09-08-2019 09:38 AM
d.b. cooper
Originally Posted by chasracer View Post
Think it would be helpful to know what unibody you are talking about. Some as mentioned can handle it without major issues but certainly others could be a death trap of sorts. I also question the whole 11 second project, then moving on to something else - faster I suppose, so why bother with this one to start with?

With me, i generally look at cars as projects. If i want to go faster, then it will get too complicated for this project---likely needing tube frame, struts etc. etc. etc. So i'll just start another project. Plus, i'm thinking if i want to go faster i would want to go with an altered anyways.

Why not just go tube frame now?

It's a money/time thing. Mostly time.
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