|10-05-2019 06:28 AM|
|10-04-2019 07:52 AM|
|silver74vette||My best guess is a high efficiency manifold for driver exhaust......|
|10-03-2019 07:33 PM|
|55 Tony||But we still don't know what "seat headers" are? Well I don't anyway.|
|10-03-2019 01:55 PM|
|09-16-2019 09:12 AM|
|09-15-2019 10:41 PM|
I had a 1955 Chevrolet with a Pontiac 455 engine. A set of long tube Hedman headers for a 1967 GTO fit perfect.
They were new andI purchased them in a hock-Shop.
I don’t need tubular headers on my 1962 Chevrolet for making more horsepower. I need them primarily to make it easier to change spark plugs on a hot engine. Tubular headers will cool to the touch in four or five minutes and the ignition wires can be routed over the valve covers instead of under the cast iron Rams Horn stock manifolds. You can also change to 2-1/2” lead off pipes between the header flanges and mufflers when you install tubular headers. You can then you will have a complete 2-1/2” exhaust system.
However, it may be difficult for some muffler shops to bend 2-1/2” tailpipes over the axle. That is why you see many vehicles with 2-1/2” tailpipes exiting the underside of the body in front of the rear tires. I think that may still be legal in some states.
|09-15-2019 07:58 PM|
I would say that all depends on your particular build and what you're aiming for, my friend. If you're leaning more towards the performance spectrum I'd wager you couldnt go wrong with a pair of vehicle-specific long-tubes from a site like rockauto, summit, or jegs. They usually offer a pair complete with their own company tramp stamp, but in my experience have been about on par quality wise with some of your more expensive brands, hooker, etc. Now, apples to apples, performance is different from cosmetics. Lookin' pretty is whats costly. I've never dumped the money on the chrome coated showclass caliber ones you see under the hoods at barrett jackson auctions; but I reckon you wouldnt mind going with some blockhuggers like mouse mentioned, pretty universal fitment and perfect if you just plan on tooling around town. Long-tubes with header wrap would be the better route if you plan on hotrodding more. Either way, theyre going to rust up unless you go the high dollar route. My advice to you, is just to let it happen. Oh, and one other thing, don't buy headers from an individual unless you know what they came out of, you dont want to waste your money on C10 truck headers to put in a nova, catch my drift?
|09-14-2019 11:40 AM|
A set of SB Chevrolet “block hugger” headers will fit nearly any car and chassis. They are available on e-bay for less than $100.
I plan to install those on my 1962 Chevrolet Bel Air with a SB engine. They provide enough room to change plugs on a hot engine in the pits. The ignition wire can be rerouted over the valve covers instead of under the exhaust manifolds. A generator or alternator bracket is available to use with those headers.
|09-14-2019 10:57 AM|
Would to know the engine and chassis combination, then some idea of quality, material, and use. Headers run from very inexpensive eBay shorties under a hundred dollars to outrageous long tubed lengths of exotic metals for many thousands of dollars.
So you need to rope us into some limit.
|09-13-2019 08:33 PM|
|techinspector1||What are seat headers?|
|09-13-2019 09:43 AM|
hey guys, just curious and need an opinion. whats the average cost for seat headers? and any recommended sites?