|11-24-2019 05:51 PM|
Lets say new rotors cost $120 for the pair and getting them turned costs $16 for the pair. They have never been turned before, plenty of meat on them. I get them turned and they last 80,000 miles without a problem and I get rid of the car? How would new ones have been better? That's been my experience most of the time. I think I've only had two sets that were really bad. Not long after being turned they pulsed again. Replaced them. The others either never gave me a problem, or having them turned fixed the problem for as long as I owned the vehicle. If I bought new each time I'd be way in the hole.
|11-24-2019 05:14 PM|
|11-23-2019 05:53 PM|
I've had some rotors turned and they warped again, and I've had some turned and they were good for many many moons and miles after and ran them problem free until I got rid of the vehicle. So I feel it is in my best interest to try having them turned once to see what happens before replacing them.
|11-23-2019 05:12 PM|
The thinner the rotor the quicker the pulse/surge/runout returns, the rotor warps. Wasting time turning them, if doing after markets. Toss em, with the pad replacement.
When I drove company cars 30 years, maintained by BadYear/Firestone. Standard practice, pads and rotors, after the first set replaced. Every brake maintenance required rotors with pads after that. The front end would start to pulse before the squeakers would sound off. Company would have saved coin just changing pads.
Drums always wear faster the rotors not so. Change the pads when they start complaining, saves the rotors.
Have the same rotors that came on my truck 99, 150K. Have always replaced pads with GM, on my 3rd set. Are the OME pads $$$ yes they are ...... are they worth it yes they are.
|11-23-2019 01:43 PM|
I have no idea what machine they were using but if the case is about the cutting tool overheating that’s a feed rate and speed problem. It’s probably just a crappy machine.
When I do it in the horizontal lathe you have to adjust the speed or feed rate to compensate for the rotor diameter. It takes only a few minutes for each rotor. Off car
|11-23-2019 07:19 AM|
If I knew what brake surge meant and didn't listen to the symptoms, I would have said rotors right away also. I just had the rotors turned on my one car because they pulsed slower and slower as the car slowed down.
Is the cutting tip on most machines liquid cooled? Seemed really long that it took an hour to make two passes on each rotor. They said they could only go so much at a time or it would overheat the cutting tip which is understandable, I just don't recall it taking so long before? (I didn't wait, I came back) Maybe I'm used to drums and they only do one side of the rotor at a time?
|11-23-2019 06:54 AM|
Rotors would have been my first guess. After market are the worst, or turned, common problem. Surprised no one picked up on that here.
|11-23-2019 04:02 AM|
|brading||I think it's always good when someone who has had a problem, cured it and and then explains how the problem was solved.|
|11-23-2019 03:26 AM|
|Unclebuck||Fixed, It was not the torque converter although the new converter is a improvement. When I changed it I removed the front wheels and used brake cleaner to clean the calipers and rotors. After a short drive it didn’t surge, but I drove it a couple weeks later and it surged. So I installed new rotors and brake pads and that was the problem. I’m going to have the rotors turned so I can see if they are warped, or if it might of been bad pads because I checked for runout and they are only a year old.|
|10-17-2019 05:06 AM|
|Unclebuck||Update, after changing the drums, shoes and wheel cylinders I still had the problem. I did put it in neural and applied the brakes, it was twice as bad. So I dropped the transmission and changed the torque converter, no more problems. The shudder stopped, no more bouncing, the rough idle is smooth and acceleration is as it should be. To find the problem I jacked up and supported the rear on stands, ran it to speed and it had the vibration so I removed driveshaft and same shaking, then unbolted torque converter and it was smooth. Thanks|
|10-10-2019 06:49 PM|
|55 Tony||If you suspect the locking torque converter is staying locked, put it into Neutral and stop to see if it makes a difference.|
|10-10-2019 07:30 AM|
|39 master||I have a later model Silverado and it also "pulses" or surges. Found this is caused by small metal bits from the brakes getting on the ABS sensors. Quick fix for me is to take a garden hose and hit the front wheels full blast. This usually washes the filings away. Try this before moving on to costly items.|
|10-10-2019 06:51 AM|
|Unclebuck||I forgot to list new calipers, wheel cylinders and flex brake line up front. It doesn’t feel like it is in the front end. I can hammer the brakes with hands off of the steering wheel and it stops straight and quick. It’s a mid to rear hopping|
|10-10-2019 06:41 AM|
I had a sticky one on my 94 gmc acted like that.
|10-10-2019 05:13 AM|
Brake surge when stopping
I’ve been having a surge when braking for over a year now. It’s in the middle of the truck (95 gmc 1500) and it’s not happening when I apply the parking brake to diagnose the problem. If I lightly pump the brakes excessively and then brake to a stop it’s not as bad. Could I have a bad load proportion valve or maybe abs problem. At first it would come and go but now it’s all the time. Everything has been professionally check and all checks out. New shocks, steering components, rotors, drums, pads, shoes, wheel bearings, axle bearings, rear axles, driveshaft, trans mount, motor mounts, wheels, tires. I’m ready to pull the trans and change the torque converter bc I’m thinking it could be trying to stay locked. I’m at a loss. ???