|Yesterday 01:03 PM|
This is a 'portable' speed bleeder that you can use when working alone.
Also great for avoiding conflicts with the wife: pedal down, down, pedal up, No! don't go up until I holler up!
|Yesterday 10:13 AM|
Pressure bleeders and the bleed actress with check valves all work well when by your self.
Jar method works good. No need to see it really. 5 full strokes of the brake pedal should be enough to completely replace the fluid in the lines and caliper. If you really wanna see it anyway, get a longer hose. Fish tank tubing is $0.25/foot at my local hardware store.
|Yesterday 06:54 AM|
I managed to get the first part of my brake upgrade done and went for a test drive. Basically all I did so far was to install new front brake calipers with larger pistons. Step 2 will be to install higher friction rear pads. The front pads I already upgraded to Hawk HPS pads some time back and it was a significant improvement. Unfortunately, Hawk doesn't make rear pads for my Jaguar rear brakes, so I'm going to try EBC Yellowstuff and managed to find a set quite cheap. But one thing at a time.
The test drive went more or less OK. The braking was much stronger and I am satisfied with the results. I didn't manage to lock the front wheels, but that was due to the brakes feeling spongy.
Working alone, I merely did a gravity bleed and I don't think I got all the air out. Even if I did, after the bleed, I went to tinker with the bias bar and noticed some brake fluid dripping from the rear brake master cylinder. The end of the hose from the remote reservoir had deteriorated. In order to fix that I had to remove the front brake remote reservoir hose for access to the rear one. Air may have entered at that time. Anyway, another bleed with a helper ought to fix it. Oh... I don't like the hose in jar method because I can't see what's happening down there when I'm sitting in the car alone.
So there was no point in measuring stopping distances at this time. I need to bleed the brakes again first. Mind you, I can tell it's much shorter than before as I know when I had to slow down when approaching my driveway. I did purchase a cigarette lighter type socket which I can temporarily install for my G-meter.
I may not get to installing the Yellowstuff rear pads for a while. They come with an abrasive coating on the outside of the pad material to help clean the disc in preparation for bedding. They say this can take up to 200 miles of driving. I don't mind the cold, but as we had a slight dusting of snow last night, it won't be long before conditions require salting the roads.
|10-16-2019 06:21 PM|
|tommye||I thought the same thing when i swapped my front calipers on my Jeep with a set from wilwood only to find it it’s just a direct Different style replacement for the calipers I had... call them ask if they have a better setup before you buy them|
|10-15-2019 06:28 PM|
I stumbled across some more info. Turns out GM D52 calipers were made with quite a variety of piston diameters. For example, the ones used on a 1974 Malibu are 2,15/16" in diameter. Compared to my current 2,3/4" pistons, this should bring out a 14% increase in force on the pads with the same pedal pressure.
...over-thinking.... quite probably......
|10-13-2019 08:15 AM|
Thanks Imsport. I hadn't heard of PFC,, so I looked them up. A lot of very positive reviews too!
Anyway, back to overthinking this:
I've been trying to put some numbers together to quantify the advantage of the new calipers I am considering purchasing. Not a whole lot of luck, but here goes:
1/ Total piston area increase, therefore more clamping pressure is about 5.8%
2/ Mechanical advantage as the dual pistons are located a little further out on the disc, is about 4.5% (based on an engineering drawing of the proposed caliper)
3/ Efficiency improvement due to twin pistons distributing the clamping force more evenly over the pads. I did a leverage calculation and got a little over 17%, but it's a ridiculous calculation as it assumes a flexible brake pad as well as other likely erroneous assumptions. So I'll assume a WAG of 10% of that, which is 1.7% Probably optimistic, but I wanted to get a number some how.
This totals up to a 12% improvement, but to the front brakes only. Since a typical front/rear ratio is probably about 70/30, I can assume a total improvement of about 8.4% at the pedal.
Not a lot, but I may go with the calipers anyway, especially considering I mounted the existing single piston calipers back in 1995.
As previously mentioned, the only other "easy" improvement I could do was to go to a higher friction pad. There's lots to choose from, but most are a high temp track pad, not recommended for the street. This leaves me with one higher friction choice for the street, and that's going to 0.55 from 0.46. Not great as there would no doubt be increased rotor wear.
|10-11-2019 04:17 PM|
Pads can make a huge difference in the performance, but more stopping power will mean less rotor life.
My first race car used stock GM calipers like yours, and I just got pads from AutoZone and stuck on there, could not lock up 10 inch slicks no matter how hard I smashed the pedal, got some PFC and could lock them up easily
|10-11-2019 02:42 PM|
Gee Tim... I was hoping no-one would notice that. I really don't want to change the master cylinder from 7/8 to 3/4 as it would then need a 26% increase in pedal stroke. This might mess things up quite a lot at the balance bar and the whole front/rear ratio. I was looking at a caliper increase as it might not be so drastic. Unfortunately all I found so far for an easy bolt-on replacement doesn't appear to change it enough.
However, maybe a combination of higher friction pads along with those calipers might prove to be the cure.
Johnson: I don't necessarily disagree with you, but I prefer over-thinking to under-thinking. Hoping to fix something by throwing time and money at it in ignorance isn't the way I like to do things.
I will be calling some pad manufacturers, however I like to know as much as I can before I call so I ask intelligent/knowledgeable questions and not waste the rep's time, or my own.
By the way, calling is the best way to go vs. e-mail. One of the reasons I recently went with RAM clutch components was due to the excellent help I got from their technical support. McLeod wouldn't even respond to my e-mails. I currently have a simple question I sent to Tilton and despite their website promise of answering all queries in a max. of two business days, it's now been a week and no answer. A phone call will be next for them.
Anyway, the advantage to this forum is the vast experience of the members. I am still hoping someone might respond who has switched over to dual piston GM D52 calipers.
Thanks to all who responded so far.
|10-11-2019 12:23 PM|
Basically to get more stopping power with similar leg effort is to do any of the following: better pedal ratio, or power assist, smaller master or larger slave cylinder, better friction material, more friction surface area, bigger diameter rotors (which increase the brake torque). Anything involving the hydraulic system or pedal ratio will affect the pedal stroke however.
|10-11-2019 12:05 PM|
Youre over thinking this...
Your choices are....
Call a Pad supplier and ask for recommendations for what you wanting to do.
Go to a 3/4 MC for more pad pressure
Go to a caliper with a larger bore for more pad pressure
Go to a four piston caliper and related brackets.
That's pretty much it.
Wilwood and Hawk have already figured it out for you.
I understand what your getting at as far as being able to lock the brakes however it's best if that doesn't happen unless at max pedal pressure to maximize feel and not just for the sakes of warm fuzzies.
Smoothness, drivability and feel mean so much more.
|10-11-2019 11:48 AM|
hmmm... maybe I did find something out on the Hawk pads. Apparently there's a code for friction material for all brake pads and can be found here:
Although I need to check the edge of the pads for sure, there's an "F" in the P/N on the box which may well indicate 0.35 to 0.45 coefficient of friction.
I'll have to take a wheel off again to confirm.
Gives me a rough idea of where to start I suppose...
|10-11-2019 11:16 AM|
I guess bore size can be eliminated now and the questions are:
1/ Will dual pistons on a floating caliper be more effective, and if so has it been quantified?
2/ Would the fact that the two piston caliper has the pistons moved slightly further out contribute to any mechanical advantage? If so, can that be quantified? I would think so, but it's a bit unclear as it's the same pad located in the same place, so would more force along the outer part of the pad so anything other than to contribute to uneven wear...
I can't find a co-efficient of friction spec for them, but I can for the Wilwoods. I think typical friction levels are in the 0.35 range. Many of Wilwoods are higher at approx. 0.46. Their highest street/race pad is 0.55 and their highest race/high temp pad is 0.68.
Supposedly I could get a huge improvement in braking by opting for one of the latter (assuming the Hawk pads are 0.46 or less, which of course I don't know)
I also don't know what trade-offs come with the higher friction co-efficient pads. Maybe they chew through the rotors really fast.....
|10-11-2019 10:50 AM|
You could install dual calipers.
The amount of actual surface area that even a second set of cheap easy to replace anywhere in the country single sliding caliper pads will place on that rotor will get you over that 25% mark.
There is math, brackets, and more math involved. But look into it.
|10-10-2019 10:41 PM|
|johnsongrass1||Call Hawk or PPE for other pads options.|
|10-10-2019 06:58 PM|
|techinspector1||I re-checked your math and got 5.939 versus 6.283, for a 5.8% increase. Nope, not worth the worry in my opinion. I would want at least a 25% increase in braking if I were going to change calipers. at least 7.423 square inches of pad area.|
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