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Topic Review (Newest First)
09-26-2007 11:33 AM
Deuce I like it ...
09-26-2007 11:22 AM
bentwings That's pretty cool.

Everything is going to be wiki'd pretty soon. Then we'll just have more time to "vent" haha. Good work.
09-26-2007 11:16 AM
this thread has been wiki-fied

I've made a wiki article from this thread: Buying a trailer.

Thanks to everyone who contributed, and thanks to dinger for recommending that this thread be wikified.

Anyone can add or edit the wiki article, and I'm hoping that more people will. Just click the "edit" tab at the top of the article page, or click one of the "edit" links beside a section, to edit just that section. 8 pages of information condenses nicely into a solid, easily-read 1-page wiki article.
09-12-2007 10:00 PM
good wood is best

good trailers have oak or mahogany floors, like old semi's have . I built a tamdem wood floor trailer for a customer about 15 years ago but didn't finish it on schedule so he bought another one. I used regular 2 x 10 fir but painted it with free farm equipment enamel, the floor is still usable. I was going to sell it but my kids said no way, they can pull it with a 1/2 ton truck. It tracks good and has 4 wheel brakes. 20 years ago i built a tamdem tilt with a winch and 4 wheel brakes. 1/4 steel floor. I usually pull it with a 1 ton truck. the steel floor is a good work table I have welded wrought iron railings on it, tacked the top and botton for good alignment. straightened wrecked cars as a frame machine .
09-08-2007 07:10 PM
I have wood

And it rots out quickly if not protected.I would go for steel next time.Or even Alum.I'm thinking of changing out the wood for alum.Just for the weight loss alone.
09-08-2007 06:31 PM
Henry Highrise I just use....used motor oil and diesel fuel mixed half and half. I soak mine down good once a year. The wood will last and last doing this.

09-08-2007 04:43 PM
re: Trailer recommendations - wood deck

This is a way to preserve a wooden deck trailer. Change your tow cars oil and save it in a pan. Add i quart of aluminum paint and one gallon of thinner,diesel, or any oil based liquid to the pan. brush it on with a shop broom and sit it in the sun for several days or until you need to use it again. Did this to mine and it is still rot free and has been for more than 10 years. Costs nothing just a little sloppy.
This is a "Farmer Fix" but it works.
07-02-2007 12:41 AM
bentwings good info Dave. See what happened with a cheapo winch below. I used a double pulley to increase the pull capacity but it gutted the insides. haha Cheap china made stuff.

I finally got a couple pictures of my dually and 16 footer.
Today I was loading my Windstar to take to the shop. It has the right rear wheel locked up. I don't know what happened but my wife parked it about 3 months ago after she got another car. It was out behind her sister's horse barn...inexcessable to power. I went to get it today and the Rt Rear is locked up. I had to drag it up steep hill with the Dodge so I could at least get a down hill shot at the trailer.

I broke my brand new winch internally so the only thing I had was 2 big 4k ratchet tie down and a come a long to pull it up on the trailer. ( not enough winch..believe what Dave says) It took me 4 hours of levering the ratchet tie downs untill I finally got it up on the trailer. Not shown in the pictures is my recovery strap wrapped around the 2 ratchet tie downs and secured at the sides just in case the ratchets ones break. I didn't want them slingshotting in my face. I used my recovery strap wrapped around the front crossmember and crossed on the front and the 2 big ratchet tiedowns on the rear to secure it. It wasn't going anywhere that's for sure.

This trailer has 3500# axels and 1860 # tires so I'm right at the limit for it. It has a heavy forged hitch too. Brakes on all 4. I had the van all the way forward so it was just off the beavertail. There was some serious tongue weight but it only dropped the Dodge 1 1/2 inch. I also had 2 heavy tool boxes, my generator, air compressor, battery charger, hyd floor jack, 10 gal #2, and a spare tire in the bed of the Dodge. All right at the tail gate. About 1000# I'd guess.
So about 1000# cargo load plus 7000 for the trailer. 8k gross, the truck weighs 7500 normally. So 15.5k GCW

I wouldn't recommend this load for a 1/2 ton. Especially out in the boonies. There is a steep gravel drive way to go up that winds around abit. I had the Smarty on SW3 and the truck just idled up the slope I hardly had to give it any throttle. About 1400 rpm. In fact it was slipping the tires a little.

Since this is a new trailer and the heaviest load yet, I stopped about 25 miles down the road to check the tires and tie downs. The tires were just warm and tiedowns fine.

The Teconsha worked great. Only one idiot cut in front of me and I had to use the brakes pretty hard. The cargo load stayed in place with the 2 ratchet bars holding things and The car stayed put on the trailer.

I stopped at the car wash near the shop to rinse the van off and wiped out both rear corner markers. Oh well, I need to service the trailer anyway.

Before someone asks, the qt of Rotella was to lube the ramp and beavertail so I could slide the van easier. I dumped it in the tank when I was done so there isn't open oil containers in the cab.
07-01-2007 10:44 PM

As a guy who once upon a time had a trailer business, a couple of points:

1) Make sure you get a quality trailer. Look for a coupler that is rated AT LEAST a heavy as the loaded trailer (GVW) will be. I have seen WAY too many car trailers with a 7,000 lb rating using a coupler rated to 3,000 or 5,000.

2) make sure you have brakes on ALL trailer wheels

3) make sure your trailer tires have gross load ratings that add up to the trailer GVW (again, there are a lot of 7,000 lb trailers out there with 4 tires that have 1200 lb gross load ratings on them!)

4) Trailer-rated rims - not the old mags off your last car!

5) The Tongue jack should be fixed top & bottom, not just tacked on at the top

6) Tie-down points wherever you want them - But STRONG ones!

7) Learn how to properly secure the car onto it! A single ratcheting come-along at each end is NOT the amswer!

If you think this is all excessive - just wait until you get into a situation that involves your insurance company.

After that - wood or steel, beavertail, tilt or ramps- its all up to personal preference, and there is no right or wrong answer. Ditto straight axles or dropped axles.

My own is a VERY sturdy beast that was my demo when I had the biz. 16 foot wood deck, straight axles (better ground clearance when I am retrieving a project car from a field) long ramps with extensions. 8,000 lb winch on a quick mount, powered off the deep cycle battery that goes in the battery tray when its in use, stores in the shop other times. The battery is also the power for the breakaway kit. Rated at 7,000 lb, has four 8 ply trailer-rated tires that are 2300lb each, on trailer-rated rims. Dexter axles & brakes, 10,000 lb coupler.

And the great thing is, to store it, I just shove it under a car in the barn, so it stays under cover, and takes up virtually NO space (about the same as the car would!)

A final point - if the trailer is well-built, then, if you remove the rear wheels, it should balance quite well on only the fronts and can be easily moved by hand. This is one test of "how good izzit!
06-26-2007 09:19 PM
Rob Keller Yea I agree that would be a bit more stable.

That is why I will use two drop leg jacks .

That will lift the back of the truck off the ground.

When I hauled that 57 Chevy we had the truck about 2 feet off the ground to get that thing up there it was rough goings

The way mine is set up the single point would be good for the occasional use.

I might look into how the scissors work ,like on a dump truck.

LOL it will probably be a while before I get to do it unless I hit the lotto. { or my MIL kicks off }

Well took 6~7 years but its shiny now.
boards back on & the new tool box.

Yippee now I need something to haul around.

06-26-2007 08:46 AM
bentwings I just looked at a tilt trailer that used 2 x4 1/4 wall and had an A arm configuration. The 2 fixed rails (with hitch)went out to the main rails and pivoted there. Much more stable under loading, plus very strong tongue. It used a 1/2" hitch pin for a latch.
06-26-2007 07:40 AM
Rob Keller perrib, I Cleaned the boards with straight up BLEEEEAAACh Then pressure washed them & painted every side
Took almost 2 gallons of Rustoleum & probably a gallon of thinner!

One thing good about it being so hot the boards dry out from the H2O real fast & the paint too!

bentwings ,I need to find the ram I have I think its a 3" fore & 3' long but now that I can pull the boards with out having to cut metal I can do that when I get the Electric over HyD unit.
I am thinking that I will use 6" "C" channel & make it as long as possible & brace it for stability .

I like to over do it.
Like 1 of my Favorite lines from ZZ TOP "Its better to have it then to need it a lot"
Well got to get out there & put it back together.

06-25-2007 08:39 PM
bentwings Rob your idea is pretty good. Where it pivots just make sure you some guide on the sides of the new tongue. and a guide when the bed rests on the tongue. A hitch pin will work for a lock. Just be carefull loading so the bed doesn't fall down or use a hyd long cylinder.
06-25-2007 04:05 PM
perrib The wood would last longer if you took it off and stained, wood preservative, lindseed oil or painted all sides the wood before putting it in service. I had a bench I made made from oil soaked oak planks from an old mill that sat outside in Ma. for about ten years and still looked good. I have two steel and one wood floored car trailers. It takes a lot more oil on wood that steel before you slip. I've thought about sprinkling sand on the wet paint the next time I paint the diamond plate.
06-21-2007 04:04 PM
Rob Keller Well as for it being hot, Yup no snow today.
I even thou I'm getting older I still find it easier to get under a water hose than build a fire.

Ugh Rusty Lil Chunks stuck to me everywhere . But Taking a shower is interesting watching all that dirt go down the drain.
{had to use soap this time LOL}

I did find a couple of things I'm not too happy about some shotty welds & the tongue is off Center.

But On to A question...

I want to in the future make the trailer tilt .

I have a Idea of how I want to do it but I finger I could probably lean a few things by asking.

My Idea consists of adding a xtra long tongue 3" x 3" Square Tube heavy wall & put it back about 6 to 8 feet & a pivot point under the trailer & 3 to 4 feet on the tongue side.

Just like a "magic tilt boat trailer"

I have a Hydraulic ram, But not the power unit yet.

I am worried about the side play when loading a car.
Any thoughts / suggestions on this?
I am thinking maybe a "C" channel sammich @ the Pivot point.??

Oh I also plan on putting 2 Spring loaded drop leg Square bulldog jacks In the front corners Like A semi trailer.
Sorry for the long post

While I have the boards off & the welder out might as well do it.


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