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Old 11-15-2018, 08:47 AM
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Oil after break in?

what do you recommend after the break in period?

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Last edited by Crosley; 11-15-2018 at 09:02 PM. Reason: read thread dates first. thx
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Old 11-15-2018, 09:23 AM
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Times have changed.

Use a quality synthetic and send it.
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Old 11-15-2018, 01:45 PM
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I'm not going to get into this whole synthetic vs mineral vs break-in time but what we do on engines that we drag race is a mix of VR-1 and 10W30 Valvoline and Wix Filter. We do 3 heat cycles on the engine and we let the engine get cold between each one. Assuming no issues, we dump the oil and filter thru paint filters checking for any debris, plus cutting open the filter for a look. Then and this is dependent on each of us. My 2 sons have a preference for VR-1 20w50 Racing Oil along with Wix racing filter. My preference is Mobil 20w50 picked up from Wallymart and the Wix racing filter.



All of us have successful engines and the clearances on bearings is probably a smidge looser that what you would run on the street. We also run ring gaps on thin rings that favor the workings of the vacuum pumps.
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Old 11-15-2018, 04:04 PM
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A high performance engine needs high performance oil, the magic is in the additives not the base stock oil. For actual racing, use Mobil 1 Racing Oil https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mob-104145
For street use, Penngrade https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bpo-71446

For my use on short oval circle track racing I use the PennGrade 10-40 cause I'm thrifty
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Old 11-15-2018, 06:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lmsport View Post
A high performance engine needs high performance oil, the magic is in the additives not the base stock oil. For actual racing, use Mobil 1 Racing Oil https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mob-104145
For street use, Penngrade https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bpo-71446

For my use on short oval circle track racing I use the PennGrade 10-40 cause I'm thrifty

That's why I'm at Wallymart buying the 20w50 Mobil 1 . Running methanol we dump this stuff way too often - I am on a 25 pass schedule, give or take a couple.
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Old 11-18-2018, 11:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thatguyfromfresno View Post
what do you recommend after the break in period?
To a large extent that depends on the cam first as type flat tappet versus roller, and how nasty are the cam lobes and spring pressures. Everything else gets in line after the cam lobe wear potentials are covered.

Short ramps, fast lift rates, and high lifts all work against lobe and lifter life. Flat tappet cam's in particular suffer, they always have. They depend on dry lube properties of zinc phosphate compounds in the oil. There are other good dry lubes such as moly compounds as well but they filter out where compounds like ZDDP don't which is why they became popular before the EPA ruled them down to out because of their ability to reduce the effectiveness of cat converters.

The long term use of modern oils with flat tappet cam's drives you to additives for over the counter oils, or to racing or old car speciality oils, or at least in the past to fleet diesel/gas oils which are also losing their rich applications of zinc/phosphate compounds. Motorcycle oils recommended for models that use the same oil for the engine and transmission also pack in good amounts of Extreme Pressure (EP) lubes as well because the tranny gears need it.

Bogie
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