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Old 04-05-2019, 09:09 AM
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Older Truck Suspension & Trailer Options

I know this is a Hot Rod Board, but figuring many of you are trailering your rods, so here goes:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/3844...491616?sfns=mo

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Old 04-05-2019, 09:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beam6325 View Post
I know this is a Hot Rod Board, but figuring many of you are trailering your rods, so here goes:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/3844...491616?sfns=mo

I don't see how a sway bar will help anything? Weigh the trailer with the heaviest car in it, then weigh just the tongue and see if it falls in the OK range. I've used a load leveler hitch and it seems to work well in not just reducing tongue weight but handling also, but I was using a Chevy 3500 van rated for 10,000/1,000.


If you are going to do this anyway, I'd add helper springs and different tires rated for more weight. (she ain't gonna ride soft any more) Test those trailer brakes well, I put new ones on a trailer that had none (get away with anything in TN) on both axles and they took 100 miles to get seated to were they work well, and that was with operating them manually too. And yes brakes on BOTH axles.
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Old 04-05-2019, 11:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beam6325 View Post
I know this is a Hot Rod Board, but figuring many of you are trailering your rods, so here goes:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/3844...491616?sfns=mo
Just a suggestion, but a lot of members of forums don't bother with Facebook. You will likely get more answers if you post the whole question and pictures here....Just sayin'

That said, an old F100 is going to be short in every department for towing....brakes, suspension, tires etc.....I would be wanting at least a 3/4 ton.
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Old 04-05-2019, 11:53 AM
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where will you tow

windy roads ad hills? I had a f110 that would handle a light weight 4 wheel flatbed, then a 78 F250 4 X 4. with a 351 M it would overheat on hills, not enough brakes for a heavier 4 wheel trailer. I then bought an 86 HD f 250 It had 350 axles and brakes. and a one ton Van both were good for towing, I now have an f 350 dually 7.3 6 speed good towing but the diesel is hard to start in cold weather.
I would look for a one ton tow vehicle
I bought the f250 HD needing repairs, It had a crashed front fender, headlight, hood and windshield. I had to have the right I beam axle straightened. My total in that in 1994 was about 2500
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Old 04-05-2019, 12:54 PM
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First thing is to weigh your trailer loaded.. then get a truck that is factory rated for that kind of load.. I see too often guys buy under rated trucks and try to beef them up.

Sam
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Old 04-05-2019, 01:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OneMoreTime View Post
First thing is to weigh your trailer loaded.. then get a truck that is factory rated for that kind of load.. I see too often guys buy under rated trucks and try to beef them up.

Sam

You're right. The answer is no. You didn't say it but I shouldn't have posted the idea's of beefing up the F100. I wish I could delete my own posts (like on other groups).


It reminds me of when I passed a bad accident. Read about it next day. Family of four pulling a camper that was too big and the tow vehicle had a short wheelbase to boot. It started fishtailing and went out of control at the worst possible place. Just before a bridge they went off the road and almost straight down to the road below. No survivors.
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Old 04-05-2019, 02:45 PM
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The trailer is about 3200lbs empty plus the vehicle in it and all the misc stuff your gonna want to put in it as well so figure 6500lbs or so.
You can pull it with enough power, but you gotta stop it too and you don't always get a choice on how fast you have to stop it. I wouldn't do it personally nor do I like seeing it. It's not a good idea at all.
3/4 Ton minimum with a tow package would be okay.
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Old 04-05-2019, 07:10 PM
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A lot of guys poo-pooing this have got to realize that the '70 Ford 1/2 ton in question here is built beefier than a brand new 3/4 ton, just doesn't have the power or the brakes that the newer stuff does. With a brake upgrade to rear disc(I'm assuming the front already has) and the weight distribution hitch it should have no problem if you've got enough motor to lug it around. The bigger sway bars are a nice addition.

Featherlite shows 8'6" x 20' car/utility at 2800 lbs

no different to this situation is the brand new GMC 1/2 ton Carry-All(Suburban) my best friends brother bought new, from the dealership, with the trailer tow package on it...wider(2.5") rear drums, bigger rear sway bar, Reese hitch, auxiliary transmission cooler, and a brake controller were all the factory added to make this tow package...3.42 rear gears, 350 engine, 700R4 trans, to tow a 26' travel trailer.
My buddy bought it from his brother in 1994 and we used it to haul an 18' steel car trailer and 3500 lb car to the track every weekend. Only addition we made after the first couple of trips was the weight distribution hitch....it basically turns the trailer and truck frame into one long steel beam with a tight flex joint in the middle, does a wonderful job of making it rock stable. Panic braking was no issue with the trailer brakes and the weight distribution hitch.

There is no way I would do this without the weight distribution hitch, it made that big a difference. went from white knuckle driving at times, to your wife could comfortably tow with it.
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Old 04-05-2019, 09:15 PM
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Just remember there is a difference between sway bars, and sway control bars. https://www.campingworld.com/sway-co...=sway-controls And you can use them with an weight equalising hitch.
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Old 04-05-2019, 10:11 PM
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trailer sway bar

I use trailer sway control system as well as an equalizer to prevent side sway like these

https://www.bulletproofhitches.com/p...tm_source=goog
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Old 04-05-2019, 10:15 PM
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If the weight of your trailer and the weight of the thing on it is more then your power mover it is not recommended to tow with. The 32 should be OK if you do not out drive your brakes. The 67 and 64 I would use a heavier power mover or put them on a flatbed.

I would use/rent a dual axle or use/rent a tow dolly. A tow dolly removes a majority of the weight from the truck and is recommended for the 64/67 here. Buy some extra steel rims and new tires if your running slicks. It is like 10 minutes to swap out tires and allows you to inspect things one last time as you put the slicks on.

I generally only tow trucks with 1 ton trucks. Otherwise I just use a flatbed for short distances or freight service for longer ones. A majority of the time I just fly out and drive the thing back.


The important thing about towing is to never out drive your brakes. I have towed things in past years with no trailer brakes/flat/car dolly/2 axle towing and will go slow and leaving plenty of space driving like I have no trailer brakes.



I always try to take back roads when ever possible driving around 50. If you have cars behind you pull over from time to time in a safe area and let them by. If you need to go on the highway find a semi going around 60 and shadow them 100(flat) 150(downhill) feet back. If they break you break so you maintain that shadow space. Around 100 feet will avoid cars cutting you off or if they do get into your shadow space it will only be briefly.

If you have something like a deer dart out in front of you. Slow down in a straight line holding the wheel steady. If the thing does not move.

Hit it

Many people will do worst thing and swerve going off the road or causing a unrecoverable weight shift. If you do swerve around something get on the gas hard once around that something and pull the trailer straight. Do not continue breaking.
Your truck has 2 axles and the trailer has 1 so the trailer will push the truck. If you have a dual or triple axle the trailer will pull the power mover to a stop in a straight line in a perfect world. Even with a dual or triple axle trailer it is advisable to get back on the throttle once around whatever you swerved around then stop once you have the thing under control.

The best thing you can do is driving as if you have no trailer brakes. Leaving plenty of space and driving slow.
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Old 04-06-2019, 09:40 AM
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From a 1973 Ford towing brochure https://i1.wp.com/www.curbsideclassi...cles-12-13.jpg
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Old 04-06-2019, 12:06 PM
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I thought the truck was only a 1/4 ton? Still don't understand how a sway bar will help? The hitch is probably going to be darned close the the center of gravity for the suspension. Now if the hitch were up high I could understand. Never seen anyone rocking side to side when over towing.

Yes the weight distribution hitch (also called a load leveler hitch) is without a doubt needed. I towed a long camper with that and the anti fishtale sway control. On the highway it rode like it was on rails. And again, brakes on BOTH axles of the trailer. That was mostly flat highway, brakes worked great on the van and the camper. Had no problem going 5 over the speed limits.

Then I towed a short 12 or 14' tandem axle enclosed trailer GVW 7000lbs. Had that sucker packed full of heavy stuff with a 2 ton safe in the middle over the axles. Had to build a platform for the safe so the load went out to the trailer main frame or it would have gone through the floor. Packed the van heavy also. Probably approached the 10K limit. The trailer brakes with that load could stop the van manually without the van brakes. And I had the mandatory emergency breakaway battery operated brakes on the trailer (and the camper) also. About 700 miles including a lot of up and down hills on I81 from PA to TN. I took it easy on the transmission and was always in the truck lanes up hills, a lot of trucks were passing me. I don't know how it did it, but I got 14mpg when I normally get 11mpg with no load.

Anyway I'm off track, KIS, just don't tow more than it's rated for and drive safe.
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Old 04-11-2019, 05:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by poncho62
Just a suggestion, but a lot of members of forums don't bother with Facebook. You will likely get more answers if you post the whole question and pictures here....Just sayin'.....
I wouldn't have put the 'just saying' there...

To my way of thinking it borders on rudeness to put a Fecesbook link on a forum.

In a month's time anyone trying it won't be able to find it, even if they do use that cretinous medium.

And I would love to have offered suggestions because I have in the past been involved in trailer suspension work.
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