OSPHO factory response - Page 8 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans Advertise
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #106 (permalink)  
Old 03-27-2010, 06:14 AM
deadbodyman's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Stripping paint
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: augusta,ga.
Age: 59
Posts: 7,950
Wiki Edits: 11

Thanks: 104
Thanked 1,463 Times in 1,115 Posts
I just noticed the amount of time it took for my last three posts. thats a lot of time to spend if I was lying... today I'll get sterted on my next thread Ospho,why and how its used with a Q & A.for DIY's.. I have a couple prodjects I've been putting off and now seems like a good time to do them with pics ,vidio links and directions on proper use,this will take some time to complete. Till then,gentlemen.If anyone has used Ospho and is worried (I dont blame you I would be too), PM me and and we'll discuss it.One on one.I'll post my proceedures at the wiki. I'll need a little help with that, Jon.

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #107 (permalink)  
Old 03-27-2010, 06:46 AM
Hwyhogg's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Electrolytic rust removal
Last journal entry: power tour
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Spring Hill, Florida
Posts: 512
Wiki Edits: 6

Thanks: 3
Thanked 6 Times in 4 Posts
no problem with ospho...

DEAD, I'm not sure what you're talking about...how/when did I use it incorrectly?...I.'ve only had good to say about ospho. I follow the directions,(not complicated), and all the bare metal I had treated with ospho was sanded down with 80 grit. I then used a wax/grease remover several times then applied my two coats of epoxy. I will now test rage gold filler on sanded and unsanded epoxy. I totally credit ospho for saving me from my poor decision of letting my truck stay bare so long. Again, for me and my circumstances I will use ospho for my needs, but I'm a newbie and don't make a living doing paint...
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #108 (permalink)  
Old 03-27-2010, 07:17 AM
deadbodyman's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Stripping paint
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: augusta,ga.
Age: 59
Posts: 7,950
Wiki Edits: 11

Thanks: 104
Thanked 1,463 Times in 1,115 Posts
My mistake hwy,I have you confussed with someone else.I have a lot of Pms on this stuff and I get members mixed up all the time,Im sorry...My brain is small but I deal with it.I can offer a few suggestions if the need arises...You know how to contact me....I told you I wasnt the brightest bulb in the pack.........braindead.....bodyman

Last edited by deadbodyman; 03-27-2010 at 09:08 AM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
  #109 (permalink)  
Old 03-27-2010, 07:29 AM
Hwyhogg's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Electrolytic rust removal
Last journal entry: power tour
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Spring Hill, Florida
Posts: 512
Wiki Edits: 6

Thanks: 3
Thanked 6 Times in 4 Posts
Cool, thanks
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #110 (permalink)  
Old 03-27-2010, 08:17 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: POrt Gibson, NY
Posts: 220
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
DBM, It was my old hood so it was not new steel. I did ask someone who knew how to use the product. It was you in particular that say it was OK to do it. You didn't give a lot of specific instructions. You just said that you use it all the time and had no problems. I asked you about the sticky residue that it left behind and if it hurt the epoxy bond to the metal. You said that you didn't have a problem with it. The epoxy had a week to cure. And the OSPHO was applied per the manufacturers recomendations (kinda easy, squirt, dry overnight, paint). I do not beleive that there was an epoxy issue either.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #111 (permalink)  
Old 03-27-2010, 10:12 AM
deadbodyman's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Stripping paint
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: augusta,ga.
Age: 59
Posts: 7,950
Wiki Edits: 11

Thanks: 104
Thanked 1,463 Times in 1,115 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by xpsyclonex2002
DBM, It was my old hood so it was not new steel. I did ask someone who knew how to use the product. It was you in particular that say it was OK to do it. You didn't give a lot of specific instructions. You just said that you use it all the time and had no problems. I asked you about the sticky residue that it left behind and if it hurt the epoxy bond to the metal. You said that you didn't have a problem with it. The epoxy had a week to cure. And the OSPHO was applied per the manufacturers recomendations (kinda easy, squirt, dry overnight, paint). I do not beleive that there was an epoxy issue either.
The reason for not going into a lot of detail is I dont know if someone already has the bottle in their hand and are ready to get started. sorry for that, but I'd waste a lot of time if I went into a lot of detail with everyone that PM's just to talk about it,I always tell everyone to call when they're ready to go.....ALWAYS......SOOOOOOOO........lets straighten this out right now.......
nonono ,there's a lot more to it than than squirt, let dry......Squirt, scrub it in with a scotch brite, keep it all very wet by squirting more, don't let it start drying up before your done, wipe off the excess as much as possible...then let dry 24-48hrs then test with sandpaper.there can be no sticky residue at all, that would surely gum up sand paper and show it wasn't dry yet, thats why I always do the dry test before I get started ,even when its dry to the touch it might not be quite ready ...I think you didn't wipe it off enough(with a paper shop towel)thats the first problem you should have gotten back to me.uncured epoxy will do the same thing even on untreated metal did you test the epoxy to make sure it was completely cured?...I realize,my writing skills are weak ,at best and hard to understand ,sometimes when I go back and read something I wrote I don't even understand what the heck I was talking about, didn't I tell you to call me for a detailed foolproof procedure? the directions on the bottle will get you started but I've learned a lot of better ways to apply and use this stuff that are a big help for a first timer.once we get these problems cleared up you'll see there are many advantages when you get it right.I hope you don't mind me using you as an example,so I can show how these common problems are made and how they are cured (no pun intended)I hope you will continue this at my new thread just for this reason.It really should be on a thread all its own....I just finished two video's and taking a bunch of pictures and I'll get started posting tonight (when my wife downloads the pics) thats above my comfort level...I'm actually doing it start to finish starting with the stripping so it'll take a little time to complete but I'll add a new step every day just like you would at home I'm also doing this outside in the worst possible conditions a DIY would be doing it in (under a tree),not in the shop in a controlled environment......This should help a lot ...but its a PITA...when you drop your stripper brush in the dirt (I edited that cussing part out)...BDBM

Last edited by deadbodyman; 03-27-2010 at 10:23 AM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #112 (permalink)  
Old 03-28-2010, 07:05 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Lakeland FL
Age: 71
Posts: 4,104
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Jon,
for your wiki,,,
House of Kolors epoxy TDS surface prep warns all acid treatment products residue must be removed or adhesion will be compromised...
best adhesion results are applied to bare clean steel...

http://www.houseofkolor.com/PDF/Tech...glish/KP21.pdf
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #113 (permalink)  
Old 03-28-2010, 07:45 AM
shine's Avatar
SPI Thug
 

Last journal entry: some progress
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: bluff dale texas
Posts: 3,273
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 12
Thanked 689 Times in 488 Posts
red, that's pretty much the same answer you will get from any mfg . it's in all 3 of my tech manuals . but it will do no good to post. been done before and same lame argument .
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #114 (permalink)  
Old 03-28-2010, 08:14 AM
302 Z28's Avatar  
Join Date: May 2003
Location: North Texas
Posts: 10,925
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 125 Times in 104 Posts
The only time I have ever used Ospho was on interior seams that were impossible to get to without completely disassembling the panel. I would never use it on an exterior surface, especially the way the instructions say to use it.

Vince
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #115 (permalink)  
Old 03-28-2010, 02:01 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: POrt Gibson, NY
Posts: 220
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
This thread is like Groundhog Day. Everytime I open it it is the same thing. "You shouldn't do it because the manufacturers tell you not to." immediately followed up by an "I know a better way that allows you to do it."
Can we get a moderator to lock this thread or something?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #116 (permalink)  
Old 03-28-2010, 07:55 PM
302 Z28's Avatar  
Join Date: May 2003
Location: North Texas
Posts: 10,925
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 125 Times in 104 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by xpsyclonex2002
Can we get a moderator to lock this thread or something?
Nope, we don't lock threads for that reason.

Vince
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #117 (permalink)  
Old 03-28-2010, 09:28 PM
deadbodyman's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Stripping paint
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: augusta,ga.
Age: 59
Posts: 7,950
Wiki Edits: 11

Thanks: 104
Thanked 1,463 Times in 1,115 Posts
That makes sence Red,for acid treatments that need to be neutralized or leave a residue.they also say........NOTE: IF YOU FIND IT NECESSARY TO USE A METAL CONDITIONER TO
REMOVE RUST, ETC., BE SURE TO THOROUGHLY CLEAN AND NUTRALIZE
THE TREATED AREA FOLLOWING THE CONDITIONER MANUFACTURERS
RECOMMENDATIONS, Following the manufactureres recomendations.....Just click EDIT on the wiki and add it where you feel is a good place.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #118 (permalink)  
Old 03-30-2010, 12:01 AM
Jon's Avatar
Jon Jon is offline
Hotrodders.com Administrator
 
Last wiki edit: Removing stuck fasteners
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Colorado
Age: 43
Posts: 3,201
Wiki Edits: 7314

Thanks: 0
Thanked 27 Times in 17 Posts
deadbodyman -- I should clarify that anecodotal evidence isn't useless. In fact, we frequently solicit and follow anecdotal advice. However, repeatedly and verbosely enunciating the same position, especially in multiple consecutive long posts, is counterproductive, and inappropriate on this particular forum. It's akin to cheerleading, electioneering, and filibustering. I'm looking forward to checking out that article on Ospho.

red65mustang -- Thanks, added a link to the TDS for naval jelly to the article. And, added a link to the House of Kolors epoxy TDS, with a specific quote about their acid residue warnings.

----
A lot of older more knowledgeable guys share red65mustang's concerns about the wiki: that some random moron will change their words, and people will think that it was them who's giving people bad advice. This is a valid concern, but the truth is that although others can anonymously edit text that you enter into the wiki, only the text that you contribute is personally attributed to your username. If you see something on the wiki that's incorrect, you can fix it, and only the corrections will be attributed to you. For example, here's a list of Techinspector1's wiki contributions, and here's a listing of corrections that Techinspector1 made to an article on rearend removal (the changed text is highlighted in red, with the old version on the left-hand side, and Techinspector1's new version on the right-hand side). That history of corrections and updates gets stored with your wiki username, and alongside every wiki article, and anyone can access it anytime.
__________________

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #119 (permalink)  
Old 03-30-2010, 08:06 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Lakeland FL
Age: 71
Posts: 4,104
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
I need to correct a bad error I made back in this thread...

It is DX 579 which is a phosphoric acid "cleaner" type product recipe (that we use when mechanical prep is not possible at all)

DX 520 and Dupont 224-s are both basically similar,,, just acid and zinc which are scrubbed into/onto a bright metal surface to form a zinc phosphate "coating" for epoxy to bond to as a final step...
DX products descriptions and info:
http://www.tcpglobal.com/autobodydepot/rustremove.aspx

dead,
it's only quoting "excerpts" of TDS prep info in the wiki that will cause problems for novice DIY's (as you did in the post above addressed to me)...
HOK TDS clearly states if you used a acid treatment you must scrub with the $40?/gal KC20 cleaner recipe to know there will not be a reaction....

Jon, my $.02:
you now have enough manufacturer's "WARNINGS" info for the wiki (both acid treatment and epoxy products) that anyone with common sense will understand that playing back yard shade tree chemist with products (like Ospho) not formulated for automotive refinish work compatibility DOES have risks....

to say more in the wiki will just muddy it up because there are simply to many important variables that have to be considered point by point...

Jon,
I wrote/contributed/proof read/etc technical papers throughout my work history,,,so contributing to HR wiki's for me personally is not a enjoyable pastime at all...
cudo's to those who do it and enjoy doing it...

edit:
Jon, your wiki asks for clarification of ospho vs naval jelly acid content...
here's the Ospho "recipe" msds to compare with the Naval Jelly msds recipe (and add to the wiki)...
http://www.skybryte.com/OsphoMSDS.html

abit strange that only phosphoric acid is listed as a ingredient....
(there is no sodium chromate {nasty stuff} or surfactants in it any more??? the company changed hands in 05)

and finally here's the official (?) Skybrite Ospho TDS info to add to the wiki under their heading to match up with the Naval Jelly info for article completeness(?)...

http://www.skybryte.com/OsphoTec.html

Last edited by red65mustang; 03-30-2010 at 09:56 AM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #120 (permalink)  
Old 03-31-2010, 06:26 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Lakeland FL
Age: 71
Posts: 4,104
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
LOL,,,
a footnote for the wiki????
a main point of DBM's proposed "Ospho" prep method is lower cost....

a gallon of Ospho rust convertor is about $90...

a gallon of PPG DX579 phosphoric acid and metal cleaner is about $34....

ospho is 75%? phosphoric,,,DX579 is 40%? phosphoric to act on the rust...
buy 2 gallons (if needed/not likely) of the PPG product formulated for the job and your still $20 ahead...

a 1998 dated (?) DX579 ingredients msds link:

http://www.mexico.k12.mo.us/hazmat/H...ting-Resin.pdf

Last edited by red65mustang; 03-31-2010 at 06:44 AM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:
Insurance
Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Factory chevy heads KGRIFF Engine 69 11-26-2009 09:30 AM
Factory 350 cast crank hp rating KGRIFF Engine 9 03-19-2007 07:41 PM
1980 camaro factory hp rockandroller1991 Engine 3 10-09-2006 10:51 PM
factory paint online DougGass87 Body - Exterior 10 05-30-2006 06:47 AM
302 Factory Intake JSD Performance Engine 2 01-16-2006 12:29 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:53 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2020 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.