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Old 05-25-2018, 07:21 PM
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Paint color

Hi! I am restoring a 37 plymouth sedan in Brazil, however, i still could not decide wich exterior color would look better. Its basically all original, but i am thinking about a lowered suspension and a new exterior color and interior. Could anybody help me suggesting possible colors for that type of car? Thanks.

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Old 05-25-2018, 10:51 PM
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Hello, Welcome

The color you paint your car or truckis a subjective selection.
If I were restoring a car to look stock with no exterior changes I would use a factory color of that year.

If you are doing some mild custom and are not worried about keeping the car original then I pick a color based On what I like. I am a basic black, blue, red, silver sort of guy so decision is easy for me.

Choosing a color can sometimes be a real hard decision. Give it some thought and maybe google the make and model of your car and see what type of other colors other owners of the car have used and if you see something you like there you go!
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Old 05-26-2018, 03:06 AM
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My only advice is do not choose a color from a paint chip. They are just too small. It is almost impossible to visualize what it will look like on the car. Look at cars and pick a car that has the color you want and go with it.

Example; My roadster is a midnight blue. No purple cast and no matallic. I picked it from a car that was painted with '89 Mercedes midnight blue. Looked up PPG Concept code (13907) and ran with it.

John
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Old 05-26-2018, 10:15 AM
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yea. I would avoid a paint chip colour selection as mentioned. I was bit in the back side by a choice years ago.

Find a new or olde car you can look at in person.
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Old 05-26-2018, 10:31 AM
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Tough to go wrong with black. It can please the rodders and restorers at the same time, clashes with nothing, is beautiful with or without lots of chrome, and lets the vehicle's shape define the look.
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Old 05-26-2018, 10:32 AM
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How about a "Basics" on the subject. What is funny is I mention that it's been a part of my life for 25 years....that was when I wrote this it's now over 40 years! OMG!

Brian

"Basics of Basics" Color choice
By Brian Martin

Color choice is so much more than simply picking a color because you ‘like” it. Not every color “works” on every car. Some will argue “to each his own” or “It’s your car, paint it what ever you want”. This is true, but you are painting it to look better, right? Why just get color on it for the sake of getting color on it. Why paint your favorite color on it when your favorite color is not going to make the car look it’s best?

We have all heard that black will show waves or poor body work. White on the other hand hides them. This is just the start of color choice. We can agree that even though you may love black cars, painting a wavy old beast a cut and buffed black would be wrong. It goes beyond “taste”, it is just plain wrong, if your desire is a nice looking car.

There are a few different issues when talking about color choice.

Cost:

IF you have a budget for you paint you best check on the cost before you commit to a color. In one brand of basecoat a price can go from approximately $185.00 to $420.00 a gallon. Any color with a lot of red or pearl is going to be more expensive for instance. These are not custom colors, just regular old colors off new cars. Whether you plan on BC/CC (base coat/ clear coat) or SS (single stage, where no clear is applied over it) will effect cost. Pick a color and go to your paint store to see all costs, color, clear, hardeners, reducers, any sealers you may want, etc. You don’t want to be surprised when the car is sitting there ready for paint.

Resale Value:

Yeah, I know, you’ll never sell it. Well, I have to tell you, you most likely will someday. There are lots of cars painted pastel pick from the 1980’s that are darn near un-sellable today. I know of one, a friend of mine passed away unexpectedly and his wife almost had to give away his ’34 Ford. It would have probably gotten up to $10,000 more if it wasn’t a out dated trendy color from the 80’s. Really watch those trendy colors, they can kill you.

Does the color “work” on this particular body style:

Not all cars look good in all colors. Again, I am not talking “taste” here, I mean some colors just DON’T “work” on every car. There is a 4dr ’59 Cad in my area that is painted a fire engine red, I am sorry, it doesn’t work. In fact, it looks like hell. Is that just my opinion, well yes and no. It is also the publics opinion in large too. GM spends a LOT of time and money on marketing and research to come up with the colors it offers. That red would not be a color offered on that car for good reason. This is a very gray area (if you will pardon the pun), it does come down to “opinion”. But it is like speaking your mind about politics, sure you have the right, but you better “know the room”. Or you will suffer the consequences. The resale of the Cad is in the tank. The likelihood of a crowd gathering around it at a show is in the tank. He too the chance when he opened the can. Because of this rule it is not likely you will ever see a white Lamborghini Countach or a candy apple red Rolls Royce.

What do you want the color to do:

This is where we return to the black show waves stuff. Sure black shows waves, but did you know it hides body lines? That’s right, it “softens” body lines. If you have a car with features you want to hide, black is the color. This is one of the reasons it is known for being “mysterious”. It hides a lot, leaving it up to the imagination. It also makes the car look smaller. I am not kidding, park a black ’68 Camaro next to a white one and you darn near have to take a measuring tape out to prove they are the same car.

On something like a ’27 Ford model T the doors lay on top of the cowl and quarters. It kinda looks like a tire patch on the side of the car. In black they “melt” in and don’t pop out as much.

White is just the opposite, it may hide waves in flat panels, but it shows off body lines. This includes how STRAIGHT the lines are. Panel fit is very critical with white. The gaps look like black pin stripes, if they are not perfect it will look like wavy inconsistent width stripes.

We all know what black and white do, any other color just falls in the middle. It is a sliding scale, the darker the color the more it’s effects are like black and the lighter the color the more it’s effects are like white, simple.

Tip 1. There are thousands and thousands of colors out there. To pick one from that huge pallet would be very hard. This is what I feel is the best way to start the color search, find a car the color you want and get the color code off it. It is that simple, the new car deal lots are full of cars in every color imaginable, find the color and there you will find the exact code of that color.

Tip 2. When you go to get your paint at the paint store ask if there are any “alternates” or “Variants” of the color you have chosen. These “alternates” can be VERY, VERY different from the “standard” color. The car you may have seen was one of these “alternate” colors. These alternate colors are different “batches” if you will.

Tip 3. DO NOT PICK THE COLOR OUT OF A CHIP BOOK! These chips are usually not even paint, they are ink. They are a “close” representation of the color, they are NOT the color. (for instance the alternates will not even be represented in the chip books) .

Tip 4. I highly recommend you buy a pint of the color you have chosen, take it home and spray it out. Use an old fender or something and really get a good feeling for the color before you layout your hard earned dough for a gallon or two. This is not only to see if the color is right, but to see if it covers well, and just how easy it will be to paint. The difference between colors and brands can be night and day in how user friendly they are. If you find that the color is nice but it takes 6 coats to cover, you may want to change the color choice or change the brand of paint. Some “value lines” can be very transparent, so you save no money because you may have to put on twice as much. A high pearl or metallic color may “model” easily, that may be a reason to scrap the color or brand.

Tip 5. After you have your color picked for goodness sakes don’t be a cheapie when buying your paint. Figure out how much you’ll need for the whole job. We are talking every thing you plan on painting, outside, inside, dash, jambs, trunk, everything. When you have an idea how much, add at the very least 20% more. If one gallon is enough, buy another quart. Buy all the paint you will need before you start painting anything. Get a few extra gallon cans and use them to intermix ALL the paint. You then have all the paint you need, no mismatched parts, no running out, you are set to go. If you have a that quart left over when you are done, so what? Running out of paint is NOT pretty, it is a disaster in many cases. Now, why intermix? This is a VERY painful lesson you don’t want to learn the hard way. This is it in a nutshell, if you were to go to the paint store and have three gallons of the same formula mixed you would end up with three different colors! I will bet you a dollar, here is why. Some toners are very strong, just a drip will change the color. A couple of different people could mix them, some people mix better than others. There are other variables such as one toner used gets emptied and the next toner used has more solvent in it because it is new and has less strength. Now, these colors may not be “that” different. If you were to paint three different cars with those gallons you may not even see it. But if you were to paint your hood, fenders, and quarters with the three different gallons you sure would! I repeat, this is a VERY painful lesson you don’t want to have to learn the hard way, BUY ALL YOUR PAINT UP FRONT.

Tip 6. If you follow tip #5 you can skip this one. It is something that comes up once and a while. When you have chosen BC/CC, SS, Lacquer, enamel, what ever, paint the WHOLE car the same. Don’t paint the jambs SS and the outside BC/CC or something like that. Yes, it “can” work, but seldom does. The formula for the SS and BC of the same color is NOT (usually) the same. The SS paint is not just the BC that you don’t put clear over. For that matter just clearing a color will change it.

I could bore you with example after example of how I learned this information. Follow these simple tips and you will have fun doing your car, instead of experiencing the pain on your own. These are lessons that are very painful, believe me.

Let me also say that I love color. It has been a big part of my life for over 25 years. I can appreciate just about any color as long as it is done nice. That does not mean that any color belongs on any car. It also doesn’t mean that because I would like a car a particular color that I would paint it that color. It has to “work” or it was a waste of time and money. There are many cars that you have seen grace the front cover of a magazine that would be a big ZERO if it were painted another color. And likewise there are many cars that just don’t get the attention they deserve because they were painted the “wrong” color.

This may be the only car you ever restore, or at the very least one of only a few. The time you take to pick the color is time very well spent, that I guarantee you.
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Old 05-26-2018, 10:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John long View Post
My only advice is do not choose a color from a paint chip. They are just too small. It is almost impossible to visualize what it will look like on the car. Look at cars and pick a car that has the color you want and go with it.

Example; My roadster is a midnight blue. No purple cast and no matallic. I picked it from a car that was painted with '89 Mercedes midnight blue. Looked up PPG Concept code (13907) and ran with it.

John
Yep, see a car you like, get the color code from it, done deal.

Brian
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Old 05-26-2018, 11:34 AM
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I see a lot of bright pearls for cars of that era at the car shows. They look really good. Champagne pearls, green pearls, red pearls, orange pears, green pearls. I'd go with lambo orange with tan interior. Some pin striping in white and or light brown. Just my opinion. Start looking at cars and find something you like then find out what color that is and if it's factory they can mix it up for you at the jobber.
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Old 05-26-2018, 04:33 PM
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Thank you all guys. All the advices will really help me to clarify my thoughs and ideas. What really confuses me is the fact that this model (plymouth sedan 37) seems to me too conservative. I got it from my father, wich pass away last year, and it was mostly original. I am more a "street hot" guy and I want to give him my style, without changing it too much. I agree that the color i want sometimes will not be the right one. Black is one of the options (always), as much as green, orange (i like the suggestion) and brown or dark red. Unfortunatelly none of the 37's I found on the internet really inspired me. Please feel free to suggest some ppg codes of the colors i mentioned. The dealer i know works okay with ppg. Thanks again.
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Old 05-26-2018, 05:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
How about a "Basics" on the subject. <img src="https://www.hotrodders.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0" alt="" title="big smile" class="inlineimg" /> What is funny is I mention that it's been a part of my life for 25 years....that was when I wrote this it's now over 40 years! OMG!

Brian

"Basics of Basics" Color choice
By Brian Martin

Color choice is so much more than simply picking a color because you ‘like” it. Not every color “works” on every car. Some will argue “to each his own” or “It’s your car, paint it what ever you want”. This is true, but you are painting it to look better, right? Why just get color on it for the sake of getting color on it. Why paint your favorite color on it when your favorite color is not going to make the car look it’s best?

We have all heard that black will show waves or poor body work. White on the other hand hides them. This is just the start of color choice. We can agree that even though you may love black cars, painting a wavy old beast a cut and buffed black would be wrong. It goes beyond “taste”, it is just plain wrong, if your desire is a nice looking car.

There are a few different issues when talking about color choice.

Cost:

IF you have a budget for you paint you best check on the cost before you commit to a color. In one brand of basecoat a price can go from approximately $185.00 to $420.00 a gallon. Any color with a lot of red or pearl is going to be more expensive for instance. These are not custom colors, just regular old colors off new cars. Whether you plan on BC/CC (base coat/ clear coat) or SS (single stage, where no clear is applied over it) will effect cost. Pick a color and go to your paint store to see all costs, color, clear, hardeners, reducers, any sealers you may want, etc. You don’t want to be surprised when the car is sitting there ready for paint.

Resale Value:

Yeah, I know, you’ll never sell it. Well, I have to tell you, you most likely will someday. There are lots of cars painted pastel pick from the 1980’s that are darn near un-sellable today. I know of one, a friend of mine passed away unexpectedly and his wife almost had to give away his ’34 Ford. It would have probably gotten up to $10,000 more if it wasn’t a out dated trendy color from the 80’s. Really watch those trendy colors, they can kill you.

Does the color “work” on this particular body style:

Not all cars look good in all colors. Again, I am not talking “taste” here, I mean some colors just DON’T “work” on every car. There is a 4dr ’59 Cad in my area that is painted a fire engine red, I am sorry, it doesn’t work. In fact, it looks like hell. Is that just my opinion, well yes and no. It is also the publics opinion in large too. GM spends a LOT of time and money on marketing and research to come up with the colors it offers. That red would not be a color offered on that car for good reason. This is a very gray area (if you will pardon the pun), it does come down to “opinion”. But it is like speaking your mind about politics, sure you have the right, but you better “know the room”. Or you will suffer the consequences. The resale of the Cad is in the tank. The likelihood of a crowd gathering around it at a show is in the tank. He too the chance when he opened the can. Because of this rule it is not likely you will ever see a white Lamborghini Countach or a candy apple red Rolls Royce.

What do you want the color to do:

This is where we return to the black show waves stuff. Sure black shows waves, but did you know it hides body lines? That’s right, it “softens” body lines. If you have a car with features you want to hide, black is the color. This is one of the reasons it is known for being “mysterious”. It hides a lot, leaving it up to the imagination. It also makes the car look smaller. I am not kidding, park a black ’68 Camaro next to a white one and you darn near have to take a measuring tape out to prove they are the same car.

On something like a ’27 Ford model T the doors lay on top of the cowl and quarters. It kinda looks like a tire patch on the side of the car. In black they “melt” in and don’t pop out as much.

White is just the opposite, it may hide waves in flat panels, but it shows off body lines. This includes how STRAIGHT the lines are. Panel fit is very critical with white. The gaps look like black pin stripes, if they are not perfect it will look like wavy inconsistent width stripes.

We all know what black and white do, any other color just falls in the middle. It is a sliding scale, the darker the color the more it’s effects are like black and the lighter the color the more it’s effects are like white, simple.

Tip 1. There are thousands and thousands of colors out there. To pick one from that huge pallet would be very hard. This is what I feel is the best way to start the color search, find a car the color you want and get the color code off it. It is that simple, the new car deal lots are full of cars in every color imaginable, find the color and there you will find the exact code of that color.

Tip 2. When you go to get your paint at the paint store ask if there are any “alternates” or “Variants” of the color you have chosen. These “alternates” can be VERY, VERY different from the “standard” color. The car you may have seen was one of these “alternate” colors. These alternate colors are different “batches” if you will.

Tip 3. DO NOT PICK THE COLOR OUT OF A CHIP BOOK! These chips are usually not even paint, they are ink. They are a “close” representation of the color, they are NOT the color. (for instance the alternates will not even be represented in the chip books) .

Tip 4. I highly recommend you buy a pint of the color you have chosen, take it home and spray it out. Use an old fender or something and really get a good feeling for the color before you layout your hard earned dough for a gallon or two. This is not only to see if the color is right, but to see if it covers well, and just how easy it will be to paint. The difference between colors and brands can be night and day in how user friendly they are. If you find that the color is nice but it takes 6 coats to cover, you may want to change the color choice or change the brand of paint. Some “value lines” can be very transparent, so you save no money because you may have to put on twice as much. A high pearl or metallic color may “model” easily, that may be a reason to scrap the color or brand.

Tip 5. After you have your color picked for goodness sakes don’t be a cheapie when buying your paint. Figure out how much you’ll need for the whole job. We are talking every thing you plan on painting, outside, inside, dash, jambs, trunk, everything. When you have an idea how much, add at the very least 20% more. If one gallon is enough, buy another quart. Buy all the paint you will need before you start painting anything. Get a few extra gallon cans and use them to intermix ALL the paint. You then have all the paint you need, no mismatched parts, no running out, you are set to go. If you have a that quart left over when you are done, so what? Running out of paint is NOT pretty, it is a disaster in many cases. Now, why intermix? This is a VERY painful lesson you don’t want to learn the hard way. This is it in a nutshell, if you were to go to the paint store and have three gallons of the same formula mixed you would end up with three different colors! I will bet you a dollar, here is why. Some toners are very strong, just a drip will change the color. A couple of different people could mix them, some people mix better than others. There are other variables such as one toner used gets emptied and the next toner used has more solvent in it because it is new and has less strength. Now, these colors may not be “that” different. If you were to paint three different cars with those gallons you may not even see it. But if you were to paint your hood, fenders, and quarters with the three different gallons you sure would! I repeat, this is a VERY painful lesson you don’t want to have to learn the hard way, BUY ALL YOUR PAINT UP FRONT.

Tip 6. If you follow tip #5 you can skip this one. It is something that comes up once and a while. When you have chosen BC/CC, SS, Lacquer, enamel, what ever, paint the WHOLE car the same. Don’t paint the jambs SS and the outside BC/CC or something like that. Yes, it “can” work, but seldom does. The formula for the SS and BC of the same color is NOT (usually) the same. The SS paint is not just the BC that you don’t put clear over. For that matter just clearing a color will change it.

I could bore you with example after example of how I learned this information. Follow these simple tips and you will have fun doing your car, instead of experiencing the pain on your own. These are lessons that are very painful, believe me.

Let me also say that I love color. It has been a big part of my life for over 25 years. I can appreciate just about any color as long as it is done nice. That does not mean that any color belongs on any car. It also doesn’t mean that because I would like a car a particular color that I would paint it that color. It has to “work” or it was a waste of time and money. There are many cars that you have seen grace the front cover of a magazine that would be a big ZERO if it were painted another color. And likewise there are many cars that just don’t get the attention they deserve because they were painted the “wrong” color.

This may be the only car you ever restore, or at the very least one of only a few. The time you take to pick the color is time very well spent, that I guarantee you.
Thank you very much for this great lesson.
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Old 05-26-2018, 05:21 PM
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Would you prefer to stay with colors that are regular base / clear? Or would you go with one that requires a pearl coat (a three stage color, like pearl whites on luxury cars or E9 Laser Red on Mustangs, for example) Regular is usually plenty cool looking but asking is free. Price code of a color is also a factor to consider and a jobber will have to supply that info about your color choices.

In a case where no particular color preference exists, I like to use a modern color that belongs to the same family as the car's original color. Red, green, blue, etc. In honor of the original choice. If it were a Chrysler/Fiat color, that would pay further homage.

If you post a photo of your ride or one like it here, that will help. I plan to work in some photo editing play time over the next couple days and MIGHT be able to assist but I'll need a car pic without cluttered background or reflections, and an example of colors that interest you.

If family members are interested, load them up and go cruise through new car dealerships as mentioned by others. Picking a color can be family fun and involves them in the project mentally. They will be more interested in riding in the finished product if they yelled their choice loud on the day it was picked. If you spot your color on this year's model, theres no need to interact with a salesperson to find out the color. Just ask your jobber to see the chip chart for this year of that make, and you'll be able to spot the color you saw that the family liked at the dealer lot.
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Old 05-27-2018, 09:35 AM
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Firstly, thank you very much. I really don't want to bother you with this and I appreciate your time and cordiality.

I really like regular. It gives a more vintage look. However, depending on the project, pearl colors look very very cool.

The plymouth was always red, but i am note sure if in fact is the original color. I researched on paintref.com and I did not find any red paint code for 37's plymouths. Acording to the website, the original ones are: black, garfield green, plymouth beige, plymouth blue, aquamarine blue, middy blue and plymouth gunmetal.

I am posting a couple photos of my ride (before and now), the original brochure and another one of like it, cause i think the photo of my ride will not be good for editing.
To give an instrospective style for the ride, i think about black, dark green, maroon, gunmetal or even a vintage white. But i could easily go for another idea like a pearl champagne, red or orange. I am posting a photo of a orange 41 coupe that looks nice. Funny that my 8 years old son always say that he likes white...


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Old 05-27-2018, 10:36 AM
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I got curious and did an image search... wow, there are a lot of pictures of them in all kinds of colors. Out of several dozen, this one jumped out at me. I think this color makes the car look great compared to all the others, and that with or without chrome wheels it would continue to do so in any decade. But I like blue. Search results showed some awful bad colors but this one is fun to look at.

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Old 05-27-2018, 11:03 AM
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I found this morning some photos that indicates the orignal color was black with red interior. It seems my father changed the color for red with tan interior back in 70's. That could be cool...
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Old 05-27-2018, 11:53 AM
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I wondered about that. And I remembered you are in Brazil so the browsing car dealers and questioning paint stores stuff may be quite different from what we are used to.

I think a two tone could work well on the car also. How about pumpkin and root beer? Is it a two or four door?
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