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Old 10-29-2019, 02:54 PM
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Paint problem I've never had before

Two days ago, I painted the bottom side of the hood and a frame piece. Came out great. Today, I started the top side of the hood and the bumpers and one fender. Something is wrong on all pieces. Here's a photo of the corner of the hood. I've got $50 worth of paint in the gun and no idea how to proceed. What's going on and how to resolve? Thanks for any ideas.
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Old 10-29-2019, 05:35 PM
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Go to the Southern Polyurethanes website. They have a discussion forum here:

Southern Polyurethanes Forum

There is no better website for discussing paint issues. I guarantee you will receive a helpful reply almost immediately. Also, the SPI products are great and their technical support is unbelievable.
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Old 10-30-2019, 07:20 AM
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Is this what we do here now? Send people away first, without trying to assist? Regardless of brand? Damn.

Looks to me like water contamination.
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Old 10-30-2019, 07:48 AM
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Looks to me like water contamination.[/QUOTE]

Or a bad case of fisheye. Any type of silicone product sprayed in the air within a 1000 ft radius can cause this. WD40 is a killer, also tire shine, or many other types of detail products can cause this chemical reaction. Hand lotion, contaminated scuff pad, paper, towels, or anything else that touched the surface there. Kinda looks like someone had lotion on their hand when turning the hood over, then it got sanded into the surface. Its always a good idea to wash the surface before sanding.
Hopefully its only base in the gun, and you can put it back into the can for another shot at it later...
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Old 10-30-2019, 08:17 AM
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I don't know what caused this but it does not look like fish eyes to me. It appears to be two incompatible products. While I realize that is probably not the case, there is certainly something going on. Is it possible you washed it down with wax and grease remover and did not give it ample drying time?

It almost looks like a lacquer sprayed over enamel that has crawled.

One other thought.....Is it possible you got ahold of the wrong can and used the incorrect reducer? That surface is so consistant. I find it hard to believe it is just an incidental contamination.

John
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Old 10-30-2019, 02:17 PM
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OK, well, I think John might be on to it. I talked to the local paint store guy and we seem to narrow it down to W&G remover. I wipe it on with a rag until it looks fairly dry and it was probably 10 to 15 minutes when I started painting. Some areas did have a "wiping" pattern to it. So, I sanded some of it down and got a primer sealer to spray over the top. It still did it to the primer but not nearly as bad. I put down 3 to 4 coats of primer and it covered but some rough areas I sanded smooth this morning. So currently, the whole primer surface looks blemish free. I'll spray color today and keep fingers crossed.
Molon, thanks for the link. I did research there and found a post about the flash time for w&g. So, more confirmation. And Excellenc…, yes, I do recall my painting teach from almost 20 years ago, telling us not to eat pizza around your paint job. So, I always think about airborne contaminates.
Thanks all for the info. I think I'm on the right path now. Bob
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Old 10-30-2019, 03:21 PM
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Got our fingers crossed for you.

So many times the OP asks a question but does not come back and follow up with the solution to their problem. Everybody learns something when we get good feedback.

Let us know how it comes out.

John
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Old 10-30-2019, 03:38 PM
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Not to make light of your dilemma because I truly feel for you...paint reactions suck! BUT, if you could reproduce that and it would not shorten it's life...some people would pay for that "unique" finish.
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Old 10-31-2019, 08:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sick467 View Post
Not to make light of your dilemma because I truly feel for you...paint reactions suck! BUT, if you could reproduce that and it would not shorten it's life...some people would pay for that "unique" finish.

They sell it in spray bombs. Called Hammertone.
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Old 10-31-2019, 12:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by torakki View Post
I wipe it on with a rag until it looks fairly dry and it was probably 10 to 15 minutes when I started painting. Bob
What????
Wipe it on till dry?
You do know to put it on wet with one towel and dry
it with a completely different towel to pick up the contaminates.
You don't just spray it on and wipe till dry, that'll just spread
contaminates everywhere. They won't just disappear on their own.
They have to be transferred to a seperate towell.

I prefer to wash with Dawn dish soap and not even use W&G
remover anymore, much more efficient to rinse contaminates away.
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Old 10-31-2019, 04:35 PM
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Results are in: Sprayed on the primer sealer, sanded, then nervously sprayed the base coat. Much much better. There were a few small areas of that issue but the second coat seemed to cover fairly well. After 3 to 4 coats, no signs of any problems. Later on, sprayed 3 coats of clear and looks great.
JCclark, nope, I didn't know. I learned to spray on the w&g then wipe it off. Here in CA., we can't buy w&g remover anymore so they now call it Bug and Tar remover and it's pourable. So, it thought, you spread it on and the dirt comes up with it. Now I know. But, I also agree, don't use it anymore, just soap and water and rinse well.
I want to thank all that commented. I've never worked on Hotrods (just Porsches and now Hondas and the like), but from all the car shows I've gone to, the hotrodders have the best paint jobs by far. I have a lot of respect for you guys and appreciate the help. Thanks again. Bob
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