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  #106 (permalink)  
Old 08-06-2017, 02:22 PM
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The width of the rocker to door gap doesn't trouble me to the extent that the variation over the length of that gap does. If that's where it wants to be, so be it. But reference also your distances, comparatively from side to side of the car, between the windshield post and top front corner of the door skin. I know that's the opposite corner but it's a critical dimension and affects the lower rear. Like what if you created more inward range of adjustment in the door for the upper hinge?

The gap at the inner rocker ain't cool but I am having some trouble extrapolating he big picture from these shots.

That front lower corner of the left quarter looks just hammered all around, rust pits and that rounded looking corner at the bottom. Before I stressed much over the bottom 2 1/2" of the door to quarter gap, I'd want the new quarter up there.

A word of advice- Door height can be misleading at the top rear door corner with no moldings installed, on these cars. I suggest checking that out but yay... you have one gap looking decent. Probably time to fit the next panel and refine this area later as you get farther along.

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  #107 (permalink)  
Old 08-06-2017, 02:33 PM
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I was starting to think the same- move on for now. You are right, the quarter is rusted out where it meets the rocker. This area was packed full of mud and fiber glass.

I'm not sure I'm following you on the sentence about creating more in and out movement on the hinge.

Another troubling thing that may just be the nature of these skins is that the gap with the quarter doesn't vary linearly. It doesn't start narrow and increase in width or vise Versa. It might start big, get small in the middle of the door, and then get bigger at the bottom. This tells me that if my aftermarket AMD quarter is the same I may have to add metal in places to keep the gaps the same.


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  #108 (permalink)  
Old 08-06-2017, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schroeder View Post
.................................................. .................................................. .........................

This tells me that if my aftermarket AMD quarter is the same I may have to add metal in places to keep the gaps the same.


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Perfectly gapped cars are built , not just factory panels fitting well together.

Be prepared to add a lot to door and trunk edges or gap the panels beside these items.
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  #109 (permalink)  
Old 08-06-2017, 03:28 PM
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I got ya pugsy. Nothing easy, right?! Haha. Here is how I will add metal for perfect gaps. I'll cut slightly back further into the panel and add metal here rather than welding a rod or something out on the edge. That method requires finishing on an edge which inevitably will lead to bondo on an edge. Bondo on an edge is something I wanna avoid. Cutting back away from the edge and adding there is my plan. I'll do the same on the trunk/quarter edge and everywhere else.



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  #110 (permalink)  
Old 08-06-2017, 06:24 PM
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You'll have to go closer to the edge than that. Also, it will shrink a lot when you do it, so be prepared to planish it to stretch it back.
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  #111 (permalink)  
Old 08-07-2017, 06:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schroeder View Post
I'm not sure I'm following you on the sentence about creating more in and out movement on the hinge.
I mean if the nut plate in the door at the upper hinge has enough movement to allow the bolt holes to move past the edge of the holes in the door shell, in the direction you want to go, slotting those holes to allow further adjustment in that direction.

Worth repeating... Do not skip putting on the vertical molding at the top front of the quarter and the belt molding on the door. A proper fit looks wrong until those are in place and it is a common oversight, as is the door to pillar clearance at top front of door.
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  #112 (permalink)  
Old 08-07-2017, 07:59 PM
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Ok I got ya. I don't think I need more inward travel though. The top is spot on. The bottom is out further. If I bring the bottom in the top goes out. Maybe I'm going to have to bend the skin or something? Cut the structure it's mounted to and remove some metal?

I didn't have any of the cheesy mid-door molding on this car. I did have the weather strip channel. I think that's what you're referring to. I do believe it has a visible chrome edge on it. I'll make sure to find it and get it on there. I was planning on using as little molding snd trim on this car as possible. I think it looks a lot cleaner and more modern without the molding. The rear window and windshield will have one of those rubber t-slot pieces of rubber stuffed in it like a late model car. Window sweeps will be the variant without the chrome little edge tube. No wheel well molding. No door edge molding. What do you guys think?



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  #113 (permalink)  
Old 08-07-2017, 08:38 PM
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A weatherstrip channel goes inside a door. A window sweep is just the fuzzy part that contacts the glass. I said it's worth repeating so here is one more try... The vertical molding which attaches to the quarter at the top front, and the molding which attaches to the row of studs at the top of the door, need to be in place when establishing door gap. Once you try, you will know why. How the belt molding lines up with the fender top rear molding and hood rear molding is also important while establishing gaps of all these panels. You can slice and weld until a 5mm ball bearing will roll down all the gaps perfectly then one day try to install these moldings and find yourself running in the wrong direction.

I agree that chrome body side and door edge moldings would look silly.
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  #114 (permalink)  
Old 08-09-2017, 04:42 PM
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Quick off topic question in the thread. Does this rust patch on the cowl panel need cut out and replaced? The first pic should help you get oriented and the 2nd and 3rd show the problem area. Looks very good underneath but I don't want it to bubble the paint in 5 yrs or something.






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  #115 (permalink)  
Old 08-09-2017, 05:22 PM
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I'd say that's your call. If you are more confident patching than cleaning the rust off it, go for that. I usually stab around with a sharp tool or pointy burr bit to help decide.
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  #116 (permalink)  
Old 08-09-2017, 06:24 PM
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And if u dent it or damage it too easily you cut?

I already cut it out. There r a couple other little areas like this in the panel too. If I leave those, how do I properly treat them so they don't cause issues down the road? Ospho Them and sand off to get ready for the SPI?

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  #117 (permalink)  
Old 08-09-2017, 06:45 PM
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In a nutshell yes that's the treatment. It isn't quite as simple as wipe on, sand off though. I am only just starting to figure out how to effectively use acid products for rust. Never used Ospho, so others could probably offer better guidance if needed on that. When I probe pitted metal I am looking for thin spots.
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  #118 (permalink)  
Old 08-10-2017, 03:17 AM
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About acids:

You will read that the black coating that forms over the rust has converted it.
This is true for a microscopic film only. It does not penetrate.

If you see this, wire brush it all out and apply again. Keep repeating until no more black occurs and you're down to bare metal.

Ask me how I know......... Converts rust my butt!!!!!

Spot sandblasting would be easier.

Oh, and no matter how well you think you've rinsed and cleaned off the acid, use a wire brush in a drill or grinder everywhere and you'll see dust coming up. I'm certain this is still dried acid left behind. Scuff with 80 grit, W&G remover, epoxy.
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  #119 (permalink)  
Old 08-10-2017, 03:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
About acids:

You will read that the black coating that forms over the rust has converted it.
This is true for a microscopic film only. It does not penetrate.

If you see this, wire brush it all out and apply again. Keep repeating until no more black occurs and you're down to bare metal.

Ask me how I know......... Converts rust my butt!!!!!

Spot sandblasting would be easier.

Oh, and no matter how well you think you've rinsed and cleaned off the acid, use a wire brush in a drill or grinder everywhere and you'll see dust coming up. I'm certain this is still dried acid left behind. Scuff with 80 grit, W&G remover, epoxy.

Listen to Pugsy. He is giving you information some of us have learned the hard way!

John
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  #120 (permalink)  
Old 08-10-2017, 04:15 AM
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I would like to add that acid treatment is not best for any area that shows. New metal is always a better choice in those cases, but one must also consider corrosion protection on the back side. Like in your roof thread. I don't care what or how you decide to handle the spots where acid treatment might apply, but have myself had the best luck using those products with a scuff pad on a DA sander along with some blast media and wiping off the product while wet, and repeating the process several times before finishing with 80 grit. I don't have any way to know how long those places last, but 5 years is as long as any paint I know of is guaranteed to last over clean metal.
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