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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 06-17-2017, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by belchfire View Post
Looks like I may have wasted some primer. I thought that things were close to zero when I shot it but a lot of stuff showed up afterwards. My plan was to get it damn near perfect then shoot it with an epoxy primer-sealer, sand that w/600 & go for color.
You haven't wasted any primer until you've let it get hard in the mixing cup or worse, in your gun. or dropped it on the floor, ALL of witch I have done more than once.
Now that its primed everything your sanding is one material (Primer)and sands at the same rate (like skim coating), just like before when we said STOP when you hit metal, the new rule for the next step is STOP when you hit filler , that primer also makes it easier to SEE (with your eyes) the low spots. getting to see with your hands is something that takes years to learn so seeing is a big help when your learning. Wet sanding is also good for seeing what you have, run a little water over while sanding and the shine shows a lot. you'll get it it just takes time, You are lucky though, us older guys never had a site to go to when we had trouble or you tube. heck we didn't have computors those Atari's were a big hit but would make you guys laugh and get bored within 2 minutes, we 'would play those for hours (table tennis) was all we had.

Sand lightly on your hoods so your not pushing the skin down and think your getting high spots when you go over the little blobs that glue the skin to the inner structure. let the block do the work pressing down will only make you go backwards and waste your time, You'll be saying "all those high spots wernt there before". most times when you hit metal when sanding a hood it'll be those globs so SAND LIGHTLY very lightly. hoods can be tough.
One more thing to remember about the hoods.... those blobs of pooky that glue the skin down to the inner struture or even the inner structure itself can cause problems if you sand too hard, they can be very misleading , you can actually sand a low spot in them .what happens is as the skin bends over the stiffer blob its a high spot but if you keep sanding over it it'll be a low spot when the skin goes back where its supposed to be so it looks like a high but in fact its a low now that's been sanded into it because the area around that spot does not get sanded at all. Think about it. See whats happening?
One more thing} 600 is too fine for paint prep don't go any higher than 400. ,it'll chip easier too. Good luck, I hope I've helped even if its just a little.

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Last edited by deadbodyman; 06-17-2017 at 08:44 AM.
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 06-17-2017, 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
Henry, can you skim coat with rage gold and start sanding it with 180? or do you have cut with 80 first then go to 180? All the poly putties can be sanded with 180 without starting with 80. Ive never used the rage gold so I don't know.
The z grip I use cant be sanded with 180 but sands easily with 80 so the putty comes in handy for the second round of filler.
I keep saying I'm going to try that rage gold but when I have it in my hands I always put it back and get the zgrip because its about 15.00 cheaper but if the gold sands with 180 it would be cheaper to use than buying putty.
It is the Rage Ultra you want to try Mike. Not the Gold. There is a lot of differance. The Ultra is much creamier as well as easier to sand.....Good stuff!

John
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Old 06-17-2017, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by belchfire View Post
I've been using a 12" long board almost exclusively. I'll start with 80 then 180 then 240. I've also stapled a couple of sheets of sand paper to a 2' long 2 x 4 for some of the long flat areas. Cab roof corners are like polishing a bowling ball but those have come out pretty good. I'm using the dry powder guide coat sanding where it just disappears but waves still happen. I was hoping that the poly primer would serve pretty much as a skim coat and for the first part it's done a reasonable job but there's always some thing that shows up. Did the rubber squeegee bit and that seems to have fixed the pin hole problem.
That pin hole fix with the rubber squeegee is just a work around, don't get used to it, its always best not to have them in the first place.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 06-17-2017, 08:52 AM
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It is the Rage Ultra you want to try Mike. Not the Gold. There is a lot of differance. The Ultra is much creamier as well as easier to sand.....Good stuff!

John
ULTRA,ULTRA, ok I got it. can it be sanded with 180 after application? like the putty?
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Old 06-17-2017, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
That pin hole fix with the rubber squeegee is just a work around, don't get used to it, its always best not to have them in the first place.
X2

Yep

Brian
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 06-17-2017, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
ULTRA,ULTRA, ok I got it. can it be sanded with 180 after application? like the putty?
Good question. I am not sure I ever tried. I usually cut with 80 and finish with 180 before going to a couple of wet coats of 2k primer or SPI Epoxy. I normally do not use a complete skim with polyester glaze but it probably is a good idea.

I do know pinholes have not been an issue with the Rage Ultra.

What I do try to do is make sure my last blocking ends up being done on one material only and not a mixture of primer, filler, etc, other than minor break throughs. I worry about trying to block a low crown surface with materials that sand at different rates.

Back in the late 70's I primed my 47 Ford Conv with a polyester primer named Eliminator. I think it was made by Marson. I really loved that stuff but for some reason never used it again. The paint on that car finally got redone last year after 40 plus years. It and the SW acrylic Enamel with Polysol held up really well for all that time.

John
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 06-22-2017, 01:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
Henry, can you skim coat with rage gold and start sanding it with 180? or do you have cut with 80 first then go to 180? All the poly putties can be sanded with 180 without starting with 80. Ive never used the rage gold so I don't know.
The z grip I use cant be sanded with 180 but sands easily with 80 so the putty comes in handy for the second round of filler.
I keep saying I'm going to try that rage gold but when I have it in my hands I always put it back and get the zgrip because its about 15.00 cheaper but if the gold sands with 180 it would be cheaper to use than buying putty.
I use Rage Ultra, not Rage gold. Last I checked Rage Gold was green and not nearly as smooth as the Ultra. I don't ever start with 180. On the final coat I will hit it with 120, guide coat, and then 180. The glazes sand a tad better and is a little smoother but also they start off by clogging a bit more til the surface is sanded away. The Ultra sands really well. It's definitely a top notch filler. Doesn't clog at first either. With the glazes I'm more prone to focus on how much I'm mixing cause of the cost and am probably more efficient that way, but for a guy learning he can waste so much of it cause he hasn't learned how much to mix for any given situation. I remember wasting some. Don't get me wrong though, at work I always use Easy Sand for the final coat but at home I'm a little more cheap.
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