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Old 06-09-2017, 08:01 PM
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Pin hole fix

Maybe this has been asked before but I'll do it again. My body filler ends up with a lot of pinholes. If I try using glazing or putty it just bridges the hole and it re appears after sanding. Primer surfacer doesn't quite do the job. What has a low viscosity and is easily sandable? I've thought of epoxy, super glue or model airplane cement. Any ideas?

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Old 06-09-2017, 08:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by belchfire View Post
Maybe this has been asked before but I'll do it again. My body filler ends up with a lot of pinholes. If I try using glazing or putty it just bridges the hole and it re appears after sanding. Primer surfacer doesn't quite do the job. What has a low viscosity and is easily sandable? I've thought of epoxy, super glue or model airplane cement. Any ideas?
The cheaper fillers are known for this issue. You will have half dozen different opinions on which filler is best befor this thread dies but I personally really like Rage Ultra. I do NOT care for Rage Gold.

Also, be careful as you mix it you are not trapping air in it. You want to mix it not whip it.

John
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Old 06-09-2017, 09:06 PM
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I have liked Rage Gold for many years. I use Metal Glaze after, or mix the two. Some folks add fiberglass resin but I don't know how much that helps. Best solution I have for those holes that are missed is to use a little paint brush to dab them with primer after the first coat, when they most often appear. The dabs round off with the next coats and sand away like nothing. Works best with polyester primer. Other than that, yep just general tips... Get enthusiastic about blowing off the filler work, that's important. Really scrape that glaze coat in there from different directions.
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Old 06-09-2017, 09:38 PM
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Check out Robelo.very good stuff.

http://en.roberlo.com/products/auto-...axilight-plus/
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Old 06-10-2017, 08:09 AM
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After 6 months of sanding I'm not real enthusiastic about tearing it all off and starting again. I'm almost to the point of taking a tire iron to it and calling it a rat rod. Thanks for the filer recommendations I'll try to remember them in my next life. I did use a polyester primer and am very pleased with the coverage yet the pinholes persist. I have some primer left but no catylist. I don't think that using non-catylized paint is a good idea. My plan is to hit it with an epoxy primer-sealer after this phase of sanding and touch up is done. I don't know whether that will take care of the problem or not. Still open to other suggestions.
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Old 06-10-2017, 10:23 AM
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You DO NOT need to remove it if it has pin holes, you can apply a "skim coat" of polyester putty over it.

This is standard practice, not a big deal, pin holes or simple flaws or deep sand scratches are the NORM, don't get worked up. Apply a skim coat of polyester putty over it and you are good to go.

Read the following "Basics of Basics", print it out and put it somewhere where you will pick it up and read it a few times. This is gold, filler is SOOOOO much easier than a lot of guys make it.

https://www.hotrodders.com/forum/basi...ler-44006.html

The polyester primer WILL fill them without a doubt! Polyester primer can bury a friggin dime taped to the fender (no joke) so it WILL fill the pin holes if applied properly. Often the primer doesn't "bridge" over the hole because of "surface tension" and you need to simply tap your finger on it, so what that you put your finger print there, you are going to be sanding it right? This is normal stuff, no big deal, we deal with it every day. But honestly, that polyester primer can be your "skim coat" just like spreading polyester putty only easier.

You can buy the hardener alone, go get some new hardener and spray a few more coats. Try it on a small area first, one fender or something, this is no big deal, it's part of the game. If you use real nice filler you don't even need the polyester puddy skim coat but still may here and there, it's normal, don't beat yourself up.


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Old 06-10-2017, 11:09 AM
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This is what I was looking for, Thank you. I have an old gun with a 2.0 tip so I was able to really lay on the primer. In that regard it's sanding out very nicely. The pinhole thing has to do with the aforementioned surface tension. How about if I got some polyester fiberglass resin & used that? I would think that with its low viscosity that it would get into the holes & plug them and being a similar material it should have similar sanding characteristics.
This was to be my last project & I'll be glad when it's finished but my son just got a '69 mustang that's really rough. With this new knowledge, at least his will be perfect.
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Old 06-10-2017, 12:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by belchfire View Post
After 6 months of sanding I'm not real enthusiastic about tearing it all off and starting again. I'm almost to the point of taking a tire iron to it and calling it a rat rod. Thanks for the filer recommendations I'll try to remember them in my next life. I did use a polyester primer and am very pleased with the coverage yet the pinholes persist. I have some primer left but no catylist. I don't think that using non-catylized paint is a good idea. My plan is to hit it with an epoxy primer-sealer after this phase of sanding and touch up is done. I don't know whether that will take care of the problem or not. Still open to other suggestions.
Did you think I said sand the filler off? I meant blowing dust out of pinholes in finished filler.
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Old 06-10-2017, 01:36 PM
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a good brush or wire wheel ( on first coat) as you blow air over it helps dig out dust. It all come down to the filler, how you mix, how you spread, and how deep you fill. A good filler can hide bad technique. I can use Rage Ultra without any 2 part glaze. It's good stuff that doesn't easily pinhole. If you're filling it and you can see it build up around the hole but not IN the hole than swipe from a different direction. That helps sometimes.
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Old 06-10-2017, 07:17 PM
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I just used some bondo and when I seen the pin holes I did my skim coat with more bondo. It looks like I filled them all in. Again I skimmed coated it and press real hard to fill pinholes and not build up the filler.
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Old 06-10-2017, 08:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Truck Driver View Post
I just used some bondo and when I seen the pin holes I did my skim coat with more bondo. It looks like I filled them all in. Again I skimmed coated it and press real hard to fill pinholes and not build up the filler.
That's exactly right. If you read the "Basics of Basics" I posted, you are right on the money. The thing is you don't have to get every coat perfect and pin hole free, you "rough cut" the filler shaping it without having to worry about it being perfect and pin hole free, the shaping should be the focus. You shape it, with courser paper, cutting it easy with new sharp paper. All the while you aren't worried about the pin holes or scratches, you are focusing on the shaping.

Then that skim coat of polyester putty is where you focus on the fine finish and perfection and don't have to focus (as much) on the shaping.

I have done it this way for 40 years with great success. Two coats of filler is all I ever use, period. One to shape it and then the poly putty to perfect it, leaving it in 120-180 and prime it, done deal. It's always good enough for the painters, and they can be damn picky.

Brian
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Old 06-11-2017, 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
Did you think I said sand the filler off? I meant blowing dust out of pinholes in finished filler.
There were a lot of replys stating people's favorite filler. Shoulda-woulda-coulda. The implication being "If you would have used the right filler in the first place". Maybe if I did this more than once every 5-10 years I'd be more up on this stuff. I don't think anyone was serious about starting over.
I usually wipe down the area with mineral spirits & use a heat gun to evaporate it. This gives me a clean surface and warms the part up (unheated shop). I'm having good luck with the glazing so that's probably what's going to work for me.
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Old 06-12-2017, 07:38 AM
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Theres a few things you can do without spending any cash.
Before sanding the primer is the best time to fill pinholes.You can use a rubber squeegee to apply whatever it is your filling them with, Its the same squeegee from 3M you use for water sanding will work like a charm without leaving anything behind like a bondo squeegee does Its the way we applied a very thin coat of nitro stain in the lacquer primer days. You can also let the syrup separate from you filler a bit then just lightly stir it in to the top instead of all the way down, this will make the filler soupy like metal glaze or ez sand, no sense spending 35 dollars for a tube just to fill a few pinholes when your filler has everything you need.
DO NOT use fiber glass resin, fillers use a polyester resin, use the same resin that's in the filler and your safe.
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Old 06-12-2017, 08:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by belchfire View Post
There were a lot of replys stating people's favorite filler. Shoulda-woulda-coulda. The implication being "If you would have used the right filler in the first place". Maybe if I did this more than once every 5-10 years I'd be more up on this stuff. I don't think anyone was serious about starting over.
I usually wipe down the area with mineral spirits & use a heat gun to evaporate it. This gives me a clean surface and warms the part up (unheated shop). I'm having good luck with the glazing so that's probably what's going to work for me.
If you are talking "Gazing" putty out of a tube DO NOT USE THAT. If it doesn't use a hardener TO NOT USE IT. It WILL shrink later and your pin holes will reappear after painting down the road!

Understand that the "Basics of Basics" I posted eliminates ever having pin holes! It doesn't correct pin holes after they are found, it eliminates ever having them. It is a process from start to finish that does that.

If you now have finished body work that is ready to prime but has a few pin holes then filling them with a polyester putty (one with a hardener) or using the bondo you have been using as DBM suggests is the way to go. Don't use the 1k putty, that is NOT the way to correct a problem.

Brian
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Old 06-12-2017, 09:34 AM
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I do like the squeegee idea. I've been using the traditional spreader and it leaves a bit behind so I now have to spend the rest of the day blending in. I bought 2 more tubes of glazing ($60!) mainly because after sanding my perfect fenders I found a ton of low spots.
I appreciate the reason for not using 1K so no more. I thought that there were two types of fiberglass resin. The 50-50 epoxy type and the 10% hardener type which I believed to be a polyester. Since I'll be using the glazing that point is moot but still.
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