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Old 12-14-2006, 04:07 PM
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Sloe Lurner
 

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Plastic Bumper help??

I know this question does'nt deal with a classic but I think people who know hang out around here. I have a 88 Camaro I'm going to start preping for paint this spring seeing as how I'm out of funds for my truck at the moment. The problem I have is on both front & rear bumpers which are plastic / urathane the paint is cracked and peeling and the rear bumper has a slight abrasion. Can these just be sanded primed & painted or is there a repair?? And what if anything needs to be added to paint to help it from reappearing??

MIke

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Old 12-14-2006, 04:26 PM
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Remove all the old paint by sanding, scrub the bare plastic down well with a red scotchbrite wet, clean with waterborne wax and grease remover then apply two coats of SPI epoxy, sand any imperfections out and apply more epoxy if needed followed by paint. You won't beat the epoxy for flexibility and it adhere's excellent if the urethane plastic is prepped right (textured and clean). Don't try to prime and paint over any old cracked paints and primers or the problems will just haunt you down the road. Removing all the old paint and primer is a PITA with lots of time spent sanding or you can have them media blasted like the bumper recycler's do. Some plastics require an adhesion promoter but urethane doesn't. I usually shoot epoxy inside and out to help keep the plastic from shrinking as it ages- a common problem. Bob
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Old 12-14-2006, 04:39 PM
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Sweet!

Thanks Bob!! Thanks exactly what I was looking for. Does it make a difference what color the primer is as to what the final color of the car is??
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Old 12-14-2006, 07:27 PM
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That really doesn't make a big difference IMO, full coverage is full coverage. In other words your paint will reach a number of coats where it will not be transparent and you'll achieve full coverage with the true color showing. Now, some colors cover better than others. Some colors like white and black that are really strong will cover fast, while some yellows, blues, greens, and reds will be more transparent requiring more coats to achieve full coverage. An undercoat that is a similar shade of darkness will get you closer to full coverage faster but untill enough coats are applied there will always be a difference as each coat is applied. Do a testspray with your color over a black and white testcard and record how many coats it takes untill there is no difference in color over both the black and white-this is how many coats need to be applied regardless of what color undercoat is applied.
A similar colored undercoat does however help hide rockchips down the road-example: if you had a white undercoat on a black car the rock chips will show up bad.
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Old 12-15-2006, 09:57 AM
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If it's an 88 it may be RIM plastic, which are easier to fix and paint. They are usually a tan color material. If it's black, it may be TPO, which needs adhesion promoters. There should de a molding imprint on the inside telling you what material it is. After you strip the paint off, make sure the paint cracks don't keep going into the plastic. If they do, you "MUST" grind them out and fill or else they will just show through again in your fresh paint. Dan
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Old 12-17-2006, 10:28 AM
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Paint??

Badbob.. is SPI a good paint to use for the whole car?? I've heard lots of good thing from members on this site. I've painted one car and that was a Manx Dune Buggy it turned out okay. I'll probabally need a pretty easy spray paint. I used PPG Durathane White with Gloss addative, no clear. When I paint this spring I do want to clear the black base coat. There wont be much if any body work invovlved just a good sanding and paint.

mike
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