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Old 11-19-2013, 10:11 PM
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Please Help A 1st Timer 383 Stroker Build

I by no means am an automotive mechanic and I apologise in advance for the essay of information but I have the want to learn and will soon be attending UTI for automotive Technology after I transition out of the Marine Corps. I recently had very bad engine problems so I started to investigate. It started as me just driving down the road. Pulled up to a stoplight and went to accelerate and lost all power. I turned my stereo down and heard a ticking and noticed my temp was rising fast. I pull over knowing that something is not right and let it cool down a sec and pop the hood and check oil, was about a quart and a half low due to my negligence and was steaming. Towed it home and pulled the valve covers off, what I saw next on drivers side was very upsetting. The rocker had somehow come off the spring on one of my valve springs (I don't know which one) and so I pull the pushrod and it was bent. So I then next decide to pull intake manifold off and heads off and found a few other bent pushrods, two different types of pushrods and after heads were off I found nicked pistons. Well this for me is perfect opportunity to do my first engine build and the wife said I can do what I want with about a $6,000 budget. I have a stock rear end and a turb0 35 transmission, I want to build a very strong engine but it has to be California emissions legal. These are the parts I am looking at and if anyone has any suggestions or wisdom for a young first timer I would appreciate all. I am staying away from buying a crate because I want to do engine building as a long-term lifelong hobby.

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Old 11-19-2013, 10:18 PM
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I dont see a parts list?
I can only help with what machine work to do as I have no clue about Ca emissions.
Do you have a good engine core? is it a roller block?
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Old 11-19-2013, 10:23 PM
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[QUOTE=vinniekq2 Do you have a good engine core? is it a roller block?[/QUOTE]

well either way the block needs to be checked!!
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Old 11-19-2013, 10:37 PM
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any tips are greatly appreciated, I of course will have my 350 bored and decked and opened up for clearances for the Stroker to fit correctly.
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Old 11-19-2013, 10:42 PM
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If the block is already bored,you are off to a bad start already
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Old 11-19-2013, 10:47 PM
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http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sc...05bi/overview/
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Edelbrock 29751 Edelbrock Victor Series Intake Manifolds for Small Block Chevy - Free Shipping on All Orders @ JEGS - Free Shipping on All Orders @ JEGS=

I do not believe it is a roller block so I would have to do a retrofit cam but I have no idea what is what.
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Old 11-19-2013, 10:47 PM
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When Richard gets on this thread you will get very good and detailed answers and part numbers(probably with options)
You need to know what power level you need/want
what parts can get you there and what parts are compliant.

Blue printing might be your only option?
The block needs detailed machine work
bored( need pistons in hand to guarantee perfect fit)
align hone and squaring of deck
decked to perfectly fit piston height
rotating parts should be precision balanced,
everything else is added as per desire
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Old 11-19-2013, 10:58 PM
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I use the victor jr intake on my engine,,, what are you expecting from your engine?Thats a serious solid roller cam motor intake,needs a big carb/headers and higher CR.I dont see that engine meeting any smog rules
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Old 11-19-2013, 11:05 PM
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I would like a very solid high horsepower street engine that I can get to pass emissions for a weekend show driver. I would like more information on what changes your emissions levels so much that a cat and muffler cant hide plz. I am definitely not engine savy so if I am trying for too much horsepower that is beyond emissions plz let me know.
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Old 11-19-2013, 11:20 PM
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You might go a lot further with a turbo charged engine???
The problem with Naturally aspirated is using a long duration cam and higher compression pistons will polute a lot more at idle.What happens is a long duration cam breathes very well at higher RPMs, (more horse power being generated)The problem with a cam that breathes well at high RPMs is it for description only purposes,,,it leaks
What I mean,there is an extended time when both intake and exhaust valves are open at the same time.This event allows unburnt gases to pass into the exhaust system,this will not pass air care rules,especially strict rules. as the RPM climbs the combustion cycle becomes more efficient and burns cleaner.
all engines have an RPM "range" where they work best and run the cleanest. Sometimes when we improve an engine in some parts of its RPM range,we make it worse in another range.We have to be careful not to go too far and make it fail some part of your smog test rules.
Porsche makes very clean running turbo engines that make a lot of power, Their technology is expensive.
You have 3 option
powerful
clean
reasonable price
you only get to pick 2 of the three options
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Old 11-19-2013, 11:26 PM
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What kind of horsepower could I look at for naturally aspirated non polluter if money is no option? And what kind of parts?
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Old 11-19-2013, 11:36 PM
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What year is the vehicle? That is what determines what you can and can't do to the car as in every state with emissions tests. You can't modify any of the pollution controls and every aftermarket part must have a carb#.
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Old 11-19-2013, 11:42 PM
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what 64ss stated?
400 might be optimistic?
We really need to know the rules you must abide by. I live in Canada and we can get 500 plus HP cars through air care here,in most cases except newest of cars
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Old 11-19-2013, 11:43 PM
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1978 El Camino, still falls under California's crummy emission laws I just don't know how to build correctly to be within these smog standards.
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Old 11-19-2013, 11:45 PM
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Here is a little info on it. Best to research it very well before you buy anything.

Frequently Asked Questions: Emission Laws And Regulations
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