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Old 06-17-2016, 05:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rustyfender View Post
I am a hot rod shop out of GA and have used PPG for over 30 years with no real problems till lately. The DP epoxy line that we have all used forever is failing me, before the LF or lead free label hit the can it would stick to plate glass around probably around 1998 after that it had to have more cure time before top coat which as of late is at least 24 hrs. But now even at that will pull loose from sandblasted metal, bondo, plastics and sanded metal. I'm even seeing cars at shows where this seems to be a problem any one else experience this as well ???
Start using SPI epoxy I turned a PPG rep to it and even he cant believe how much better it is than the DP.
I stopped using the DP epoxy when they made the change but even when DP-40 was the best it was rough sanding it,it was just the way it was and we accepted it. SPI epoxy sands fairly ez, not quite as ez as a 2k filling primer but ez enough. you can also build with it if you want just spray more coats but usually 2-3 coats is all that's needed. Most of the work I do is epoxy only, no 2k or any other primers. There are times when I need a quick drying 2k and when I need one SPI has an excellent one at a fair price its called standard 2k primer It'll be sandable in 3 hrs and ready to paint. ( I've done it so its true) Back to the epoxy, it can also be reduced to use as a paint sealer or lets say you sanded a new hood and theres a lot of metal showing,You can reduce SPI up to 40% if you want and spray that hood then turn around and paint it a few minutes later. Its the best epoxy I've ever used and I use a lot of it.
The only problem I've ever had was spraying it below 55 degrees but that was my fault ,I knew better but did it anyways, Even then, It just took a week to cure and it was fine. My shops in Augusta,Ga.

Last edited by deadbodyman; 06-17-2016 at 05:31 AM.
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