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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 02-07-2005, 10:03 PM
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Thanks Bob.
Sounds like good advice. And it seems to be unanimous that fisheye eliminator should be avoided.

I just read in another thread that the new lead free PPG epoxy primer (DPLF) isn't near as good as their older DP primer.
Since I am using epoxy only as a sealer, is the DPLF a good way to go? Or, should I use something else?

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 02-07-2005, 10:13 PM
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epoxy will work fine but i usually use the urethane type sealers. i have always just prefered them i guess. i'm not up on the ppg products so i dont know about their particular epoxy.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 02-08-2005, 12:54 AM
 
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eather way you go its ok I have used evercoat in body shops & at home for a few years.
not to put you down but its a corvette & your not using dupont?
If your trying to use primer sealer as a filler too I would realy not recomend it it will chip, peal & the paint will turn out with lines around different areas you have sanded because you will sand & prime & sand & prime even after you smooth it out with 220 to 600 I would recomend using Z-chrome from any parts store that deals in body & paint suplies its a sandable body filler that works great & lasts long, & sunce you used acid stripper you will need a wax & grease remover to prep wipe it 2 or 3 times or any thing you spray on will wilt up on you for your paint I would sugest dupont chroma-base for your color & transtar clear its a 4to1 mix & its all easy to use so prep wipe at least 3 times Z-chrome,primer,base & clear the base coat is an easy 1/2 & 1/2 mix with reducer But your last coat should be a pretty wet one
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Old 02-08-2005, 06:43 AM
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Z-Chrome is a polyester primer and works really good but you'd get the same results with Evercoats Featherfill, slicksand, or Featherfill 2G if you wanted to go the polyester route. I see nothing wrong with using DPLE as a sealer but there are many sealers to choose from nowadays, you may want to check with your paint rep and discuss your options. If your final sanding is done with a urethane surfacer the sealer really wouldn't be necessary.
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 02-08-2005, 09:14 AM
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I used the Featherfill on the Chevelle and it is a good product but you will want to triple check your sand scratch's. I shot it with PPG Omni and it was a VERY metallic paint as in a metallic base with more metal's added. Really nice color but there were a few places the scratch's showed up which I thought was just buff marks but they would't buff out.

Dumb question.
WHY don't they use Featherfill instead of plastering putty all over the car for blocking??
Like on American Hot Rod and such,They cover the entire body with POLYESTER putty and sand 90% off to get it right.
Seem's ALOT easier to spray this on and go from there.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 02-08-2005, 09:57 PM
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Quote: Dumb question.
WHY don't they use Featherfill instead of plastering putty all over the car for blocking??
Like on American Hot Rod and such,They cover the entire body with POLYESTER putty and sand 90% off to get it right.
Seem's ALOT easier to spray this on and go from there.

It is easier to spray the polyester primers on than skim a complete panel with filler, but I'm sure there are areas on these cars you've seen that have an 1/8 inch or more of filler. You wouldn't want to build polyester primer that thick, it doesn't have the flexibility that bodyfillers have and isn't designed for that much build. I'm sure if the body was closer to being perfect then they would just use the primer and skip the skim coat with filler.

To avoid missed sandscratches on your next job try guidecoating the primer before every sanding stage, that way you'll see if there are any left that need to be sanded more. Bob
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Old 02-08-2005, 10:17 PM
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I get what your saying. It just seem's to me it would be quicker and just build the really low spot's with putty.

I believe my problem was the 400 paper instead of going 600 or 800.
I really didn't know how THIN that paint was going to lay.

Live and learn. Why I'm here.
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Old 02-09-2005, 09:37 PM
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Yeah, It's amazing how fine metalics can highlight any imperfections. Another trick I do is to stack three grey scotchbrite pads and give the surface a good rubdown after all the sanding is done. The pads will remove a very minimal amount of material but do mellow out any unseen scratches caused by block edges, etc. Try it next time. Bob
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 02-09-2005, 10:04 PM
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Thanks baddbob.
I found those out by accident one day as they were all I had and thought HUMMM????

They also do a nice number on aluminum when spray glued to an old DA pad and used wet.
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2005, 10:14 AM
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(baddbob quoted)

"Z-Chrome is a polyester primer and works really good but you'd get the same results with Evercoats Featherfill, slicksand, or Featherfill 2G if you wanted to go the polyester route. I see nothing wrong with using DPLE as a sealer but there are many sealers to choose from nowadays, you may want to check with your paint rep and discuss your options. If your final sanding is done with a urethane surfacer the sealer really wouldn't be necessary."


Thanks for the advice baddbob. You and Barry seem to be real high on the Evercoat polyester products and that is what I am going to use on my 69 Vette.
If I do my final sanding with Evercoat's Uro-Fill urethane surfacer, is the epoxy sealer wasting time and money? Or, is there still some benefit to it?
Again, I am going to topcoat with PPG single-stage urethane (solid color) and I will color sand and buff.

Roger
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2005, 12:12 PM
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IMO if you topcoat polyester primer with a 2K urethane primer and final sand it, you are wasing money by then applying an epoxy sealer.
Vince
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2005, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by 302/Z28
IMO if you topcoat polyester primer with a 2K urethane primer and final sand it, you are wasing money by then applying an epoxy sealer.
Vince
Well, yes and no.
Everyday collision work, agree!
But a rod or restoration where you want the paint as stone chip resistant as possible, its the way to go.
Remember, base will stick to nothing as good as an epoxy (after 7 days) and second the epoxy will make the base more flexible
so it can withstand more of a shock, IE stone chips.
Base is the weakest link.
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2005, 09:49 PM
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The epoxy if used as a sealer will act as a solvent barrier and provide added adhesion to the urethane primer but I don't think this thin layer will do very much for added strength in your application. Being that your applying a singlestage color with a very low solvent content and considering how durable the product is I think you'd be best off just applying the paint over your urethane surfacer. Others may disagree with me but I've done it this way many many times and they always held up and looked really well. The color you're spraying should cover really well over any gray or neutral colored primer. For a nice job you could apply two to three coats of color then wetsand with 800 and apply two more flow coats, this way you'll have a smoother end product with a higher as sprayed gloss.
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 02-18-2005, 10:52 PM
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Another question.

Can someone explain the differences in Evercoat's polyester primers?
(Feather Fill (and the new Feather Fill G2) vs. Slick Sand vs. Final Sand)

Their web site doesn't explain the differences between these.

I have used Feather Filll and know it is very high build but doesn't spray on that smooth. However, the info sheet on the newer Feather Fill G2 product says it sprays on smooth.

Any advice here would be appreciated.

Roger
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 02-20-2005, 10:12 PM
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I used the G2 in the above post and it is ALOT better than the old Feather Fill.
The original had issues with the hardener having to be EXACT in the mixing or all sorts of problems would come up is the way my rep explained it to me. I have no idea what Evercoat did but the G2 is more forgiving with being "a little off" on the hardener. It's a no brainer anyway with a tube per quart mix,but if your just mixing up a little for spots you gotta pay some attention to how much your dumping in.
As for spraying/finish,It shoots as good as any primer/epoxy finish IMO.
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