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Old 10-22-2015, 07:49 PM
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Proper brake balance question

I highly disagree with this article. Having your front brakes lock up first is a bad idea as when you lock up your front brakes is when you lose control of your steering. Tell me what you think.

Install a Brake Proportioning Valve - Tech Article - Chevy High Performance Magazine

I know your front brakes have the most stopping power but suggesting that they be the first to lock up just doesn't seem right with me. Who's off their meds... me or the one who wrote that article?

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Old 10-22-2015, 07:57 PM
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rear brakes actuate first ,because that is how 85% of master cyls are set up, and it should be.. BUT the brake bias should be forward and not a straight 50/50 or more rear bias
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Old 10-22-2015, 08:07 PM
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Considering most drivers on the road have little car control skill in panic type situation have the front lock up first is best because it's the easiest to correct. Just let off the brake!
When the rear locks, it requires some counter steering of the wheel and few people are used to the feeling of excessive yaw and that inhibits proper control.
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Old 10-22-2015, 09:26 PM
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Meds or no Meds I drive road trains for a living I certainly wouldn't want to have that in my mind when I'm trying to stop in a hurry I'd fix the problem it's fixable
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Old 10-23-2015, 02:56 AM
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Those of us who tune chassis want the brakes to work equally on both ends. The proportioning valves or balance bars are used to tune the brakes so both ends contribute to stopping the car.

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Old 10-23-2015, 06:24 AM
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Like was mentioned above, having the front brakes lock up first helps with control under heavy braking. If the rear brakes lock up first, ESPECIALLY under heavy braking, there is the likelyhood the car will spin out. This is very bad if the car is on wet roads and\or in a cornering situation. This will cause immediate loss of control as the vehicle swaps ends and the vehicle possibly crossing lanes of traffic or going off the road. As you can imagine you do NOT want the rear brakes to lock up first.
Mark
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Old 10-23-2015, 07:57 AM
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Interesting article and thread. Having built several street rod braking systems with varying results I have learned several things. First, use of a "factory" non-adjustable proportioning valve is useless. The reason for this is the valve was designed by engineers for THAT vehicle taking into consideration size of booster, pedal ratio, type of brakes (disc/drum, etc) weight and tire size to name most factors. Take a factory proportioning valve from a 4000 pound belch fire eight and put it on a T bucket and the results will not be what is needed. In a panic braking lockup the last thing you need is to loose traction, front or back. If the back looses traction first then it can do anything it wants, such as pass the front. Ideally the back should provide enough drag to keep the vehicle pointing in the direction of travel. I refer back to my motorcycle riding days when too much rear brake caused white knuckles but SOME would keep help with stability. Just my take.
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Old 10-23-2015, 11:17 AM
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Looks like some purty good answers here. My way of thinking is if you set it up so the front don't lock up the front end first you would still be able to steer your way out of trouble. This my first time dealing with a tunable proportion valve so I needed to better understand what it is, does and how to best set it up. Thanks for the info.

Oh and thanks to the mod for setting me up with a more descriptive title.
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Old 10-23-2015, 11:35 AM
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A good driver can use the rear to rotate the car faster than the front can.
Most street cars have poor equalization of the tire loading to start with
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Old 10-23-2015, 08:47 PM
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My two cents is : you want the system to allow for equal enough brake pressure that you can get the maximum stopping power WITH OUT either front or rear wheel locking!

if you have one axle locking before the other you are loosing braking efficiency. In an ideal world they both finally lock at the same time. However saying that I know that is in a perfect world. You can get close with a manually adjustable valve but trying to use a non combo valve would make it next to impossible to achieve that goal.
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Old 10-23-2015, 10:16 PM
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I might add the reason that won't happen is because the tire loading are dynamic and forever changing but if one can master the art of trail braking(heal/toe) that opens new possibilities.
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Old 10-24-2015, 03:23 PM
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I listened to what you guys had to say and reread that article. I know more than I did the other day, should be able to adjust, turn knob right to increase pressure on the rear and left to decrease. look for middle ground between the front and back then give front the little bit greater pressure. Hate to get under there to adjust pressure, it allows me to see the drive shaft. Why did they paint that thing pink? It's on my must fix list.
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Old 10-24-2015, 05:20 PM
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When doing the initial adjustment try the car on gravel so you can lock it up and get a pattern at low speed. Once you have a good setup then go onto the pavement. if you have access to a skid pad more the better.

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Old 10-24-2015, 06:52 PM
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Gravel will have a much lower friction level so the cars attitude of dive and roll and weight transfer will give false readings. If you can't lock up 4 wheels on dry pavement then you need not to worry about brake bis anyway.
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