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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 08-12-2015, 02:24 PM
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I called Quick Fuel. They recommended a HR 650. I don't know if a 650 cfm will be enough at 6500 rpm....

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 08-12-2015, 11:40 PM
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sea blue agrees with my original post

Quote:
Originally Posted by MustangBeater20 View Post
I'm thinking about getting a mechanical secondary. I think it would work better with a stick.
mechanical secondary carbs dont know if the car is a stick or auto? If you want mechanical secondaries then buy that! I only use double pumpers,,,and not little toys
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Old 08-13-2015, 01:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MustangBeater20 View Post
Is 750 CFM too much? I don't want stinky exhaust at an idle..
Q jets were all 750s except for very few that were a little bigger!!! On a small engine the secondarys on a Q jet would not get the demand at full throttle to open all the way so they could install them on big blocks or small blocks but the Q jet was never a performance carb it was installed for economy and smooth driveability off the small primarys the secondarys used for passing and short bursts of acceleration ( NOT FOR full throttle 1/4 mile blasts) Like the Holley or old (now obsolete) Carters ( Edelbrock is not a Carter LOL)! Rochesters Square bores and Q jets are obsolete for a reason They were outperformed by all other designs and demand fell to nothing except as replacements for old stock autos, and restored vehicles!! The basic 750 cfm QJet casting is used from 231 CID to over 400 CID The same QJET can flow 800 CFM on the big 454!!

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Old 08-13-2015, 01:38 AM
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Right now I'm actually leaning toward a quick fuel carb.They look very tunable for the price! Anybody have experience with them?
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Old 08-13-2015, 03:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MustangBeater20 View Post
Right now I'm actually leaning toward a quick fuel carb.They look very tunable for the price! Anybody have experience with them?
Quick fuel is a pretty good carb (A copy cat Holley) The "pro form" copy cat is a little better, But both much cheaper and of less quality! They tune exactly like a comparable Holley, Out of the many I installed I was noticing that the spring on the front throttle on the quick fuels would wrap (or overlap on the pump cam and cause a bog, Some I sat on new intakes and they rocked I straight edged the intakes and they were true, so I needed thicker gaskets to compensate for the carb bases! They still need internal tuning , Power valve, jetting etc, to get max power , If you think just bolt it on and fool with external air bleeds and screws are tuneing your wasting your time and fooling yourself into thinking its running fine and a great carb because you still need to tune for elevation, temp, vacuum etc, etc, Its the same as a Holley or any of the Holley copy cats, they all have the same tunability depending what comparable models you order there are none simpler then the other!!!

I still prefer the Holleys They are just of a much better quality , and better machining ETC, Like the difference between an ARP bolt and one out of a hardware store bin!! They do the same thing but ones cheaper
When you handle and rebuild hundreds of carbs over the years like some of us on here do and track tune Disassembling the same carb over and over and dino tune you see the little things most people miss like the dexterity of the parts and how much abuse and handling they can stand up to!! If you just bolt them on and drive and do not tear into them much (like re jetting every time your at the track and between runs and changing air bleeds ETC) then get the cheaper copy cats ! or an Edelbrock THROW AWAY LOL (GOOD paper wghts) You will not need the good quality of a Holley!!





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Old 08-13-2015, 09:38 AM
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A 650 carb can run up to 6500 rpm no problem as what matters is the engine its matched too. Depending on how much your engine will flow will determine if you would leave power on the table or not. Since I don't race mine I use the 650ish range rated carbs for both of my builds for better bottom end throttle response and I don't hardly rev it up that much anyways.

A double pumper can be made to get just as good of fuel mileage just like a vacuum secondary carb can if you know yow to advance tuning on the fuel curve.

As far as quality I have never had any problems with any machining wise on my quick fuel carbs or holley but did have a few bad holley carbs out of the box as well as one dud from quick fuel. As with anything a lemon can slip through at times but does not mean there bad. The main part that I like is on the quick fuel you can change everything on them and go back to out of box settings if needed.

The nice thing though with a vacuum secondary is if its too big the engine will only use what it needs as to a double pumper if it ends up to big then it may cause problems but its mostly for booster signal then on wide open throttle. I would say a 750 double pumper would work fine on your build as it can be tuned to run with that amount of power since your most likely 400 hp or a little over but just an estimate.
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Old 08-13-2015, 08:19 PM
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"The nice thing though with a vacuum secondary is if its too big the engine will only use what it needs as to a double pumper if it ends up to big then it may cause problems but its mostly for booster signal then on wide open throttle. I would say a 750 double pumper would work fine on your build as it can be tuned to run with that amount of power since your most likely 400 hp or a little over but just an estimate.

even a carb that is way too large will meter fuel correctly at less than full air flow. If you put a 950 on a 283 you would have a touhg time getting to the correct tune but it would work. The only time you may run out of air is at WFO near the redline.
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Old 08-13-2015, 08:33 PM
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My $0.02, the Quick Fuel HR680VS would be plenty. A 750 would be make better all-out numbers but the 680 would be close or maybe the same. For something street driven the smaller carb will probably feel more crisp, if you're really worried about running at 6500 then get something bigger. Really, it depends on what you think you'll actually be doing. I run the the 680 on a bigger engine than yours and I'm happy with it.

The slayer series carbs are nice, you could get the 750 and probably never notice a difference between anything else. The slayers don't have 4 corner idle, the hot rod series does.

Vacuum or mechanical secondaries: you got a light car and decent rear gears go mechanical, heavier car or highway gears then I'd go vacuum. The HR series has a nice vac sec. Screw adjustment. Can be real fast or slow or in between.
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Old 08-13-2015, 08:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ben s. View Post
My $0.02, the Quick Fuel HR680VS would be plenty. A 750 would be make better all-out numbers but the 680 would be close or maybe the same. For something street driven the smaller carb will probably feel more crisp, if you're really worried about running at 6500 then get something bigger. Really, it depends on what you think you'll actually be doing. I run the the 680 on a bigger engine than yours and I'm happy with it.

The slayer series carbs are nice, you could get the 750 and probably never notice a difference between anything else. The slayers don't have 4 corner idle, the hot rod series does.

Vacuum or mechanical secondaries: you got a light car and decent rear gears go mechanical, heavier car or highway gears then I'd go vacuum. The HR series has a nice vac sec. Screw adjustment. Can be real fast or slow or in between.
My Camaro weighs around 3200lbs. It has 3:42 gears in the rear!
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Old 08-13-2015, 09:17 PM
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weight

Quote:
Originally Posted by MustangBeater20 View Post
My Camaro weighs around 3200lbs. It has 3:42 gears in the rear!
I doubt your car is that light,,,
my 67 Camaro weighed 3380
my 1981 Camaro weighed 3915
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Old 08-13-2015, 09:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vinniekq2 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by MustangBeater20 View Post
My Camaro weighs around 3200lbs. It has 3:42 gears in the rear!
I doubt your car is that light,,,
my 67 Camaro weighed 3380
my 1981 Camaro weighed 3915
It's a base third generation camaro. At max that car weighs 3500-3600lbs...
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Old 08-14-2015, 04:46 PM
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Vinniekq2 on the carb being to big part that info is what I have read from some of my holley tuning books but have never tested myself so I can't say its a hundred percent accurate as even tuning books can differ on opinions at times.

I always like to leave a few on the table for power wise on the carb to get the best of low and mid rpm range response more so then wide open throttle as I don't race so as mentioned above I have one of the quick fuel 680 vacuum secondary hot rod series carburetors and its a pretty nice carb but you could use either one and both would still run good.
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Old 08-14-2015, 04:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eric32 View Post
Vinniekq2 on the carb being to big part that info is what I have read from some of my holley tuning books but have never tested myself so I can't say its a hundred percent accurate as even tuning books can differ on opinions at times.

I always like to leave a few on the table for power wise on the carb to get the best of low and mid rpm range response more so then wide open throttle as I don't race so as mentioned above I have one of the quick fuel 680 vacuum secondary hot rod series carburetors and its a pretty nice carb but you could use either one and both would still run good.
My cousin who builds and dynos motors for a living recommend the quick fuel HR-650. He said similar motors with that carb run awesome. And most of the time he didn't even have to change the jets!
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Old 08-14-2015, 06:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MustangBeater20 View Post
My cousin who builds and dynos motors for a living recommend the quick fuel HR-650. He said similar motors with that carb run awesome. And most of the time he didn't even have to change the jets!
All carbs out of the box are set up for SEA LEVEL, and on a grocery getter or family car should need no jet changes unless elevation starts to change in different areas, but as HP and RPM increase jet changes are needed and on race cars a jetting in the mid hot day may run you lean at cool evening or lose you HP ! So recommending a carb because it didn't need jetting or tuning out of the box is a bogus recommendation for a carb That same carb would be terrible in Colorado at high elevation!!! And dino tuning can get you close but that's not REAL WORLD !! At the strip or track everything changes in the real world during tuning and testing and jetting becomes more precise and needed !!! I know I run dynos and owned my own, and do real world testing and tuneing too and it always changes on the track!!!

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Old 08-14-2015, 06:26 PM
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With those gears and that weight I'd consider the 650-680 cfm with a vac sec.

Last edited by ben s.; 08-14-2015 at 06:26 PM.
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