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Old 04-11-2014, 02:59 PM
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question for Shine about wetsanding procedures

I put this on here rather than PM so if there's anything to learn others can learn too, plus I'm not one of those guys ashamed to not know everything and sneak around to learn something.

Anyhow, I wet sand with 1500 hard block like this // \\. Then go back over it with a soft pad w/ the same grit. then I wet sand with 2000 like this<----->, then 2500 like this <------>. I love the straight line sanding but there's trouble with the paper edges even if the paper has been soaking for over an hour. Then I go trizac 3000 then 5000(3 slow passes). With a foam pad everything seems to need to be stepped out perfectly as it doesn't melt in rogue scratches like a wool. So my question is, I get the feeling I should be doing my 2500 on a soft pad DA as it's not a grit like 2000 where you have pig tail issues and am thinking it would help with rogue scratches, especially those ones on the edge, as that seems to be a trouble area. Any suggestions? I think I'm keeping everything as clean as can be. Not dipping rags in buckets or anything so as far as cleanliness I think it's as clean as possible given the atmosphere. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

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Old 04-11-2014, 03:39 PM
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i fight those too . i use a soft pad to sand with 2000 up . by then your not blocking anything . if you soak your paper good then after you wrap the pad round off the ends. i feel it is the ends that cut the scratches .
to be honest the filter on my 1/4 hose did more than anything else . it is full of grit everytime i change it . one piece of grit and you've got a 2 ft scratch.
sanding is the most tedious and troublesome part of it .one of those scratches is like a 320 or worse. wish i had the answer .
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Old 04-11-2014, 04:08 PM
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I always use a bucket, a SPOTLESSLY CLEAN bucket I am talking as clean as my water glasses. The panel is again, spotlessly clean, washed and dried before I start. I have done it that way for years and had good luck. If there is ANYTHING that could have gotten on the paper or in the bucket, it gets washed out and paper changed.
This is with regular wet sanding (Meguiars paper these days) of course using the orbital sander you need the waterfall. On that Meguiars paper, I forget the brand name.....damn can't remember where they get it, it has another name on it. Anyway, that stuff is SOOOO far superior to 3m paper it isn't funny! It will last, I am not kidding you, 10 times as long. It is REALLY good stuff, well worth the money.

Brian
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Old 04-11-2014, 04:13 PM
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it's not the bucket , it's the water .
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Old 04-11-2014, 04:40 PM
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What is? Are we talking about particles IN the water? I mean right out of your faucet? Or are we talking particles that gather in the water after sanding? Because that is one of the things of course I would do, change it out often. We are talking keeping the water darn near drinkable. I am exaggerating in that I would never drink it but you know, VERY clean and free of any paint or clear residue.


Brian
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Old 04-11-2014, 04:53 PM
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there are minerals , rust , sand and all kinds of things coming out of the spigot . when i fist started using a 1/4 in hose i put a fuel filer on it . i had one of the clear plastic ones laying around . it is amazing what was in it after a short time .
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Old 04-11-2014, 05:10 PM
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Wow! Yeah I am talking drinking water out of the faucet. I guess I am blessed here that there isn't anything like that in my water (other than the CRAP they put in it like fluoride).

Yeah, the filter is a damn good idea Shine!

Brian
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Old 04-11-2014, 06:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tech69 View Post
I put this on here rather than PM so if there's anything to learn others can learn too, plus I'm not one of those guys ashamed to not know everything and sneak around to learn something.

Anyhow, I wet sand with 1500 hard block like this // \\. Then go back over it with a soft pad w/ the same grit. then I wet sand with 2000 like this<----->, then 2500 like this <------>. I love the straight line sanding but there's trouble with the paper edges even if the paper has been soaking for over an hour. Then I go trizac 3000 then 5000(3 slow passes). With a foam pad everything seems to need to be stepped out perfectly as it doesn't melt in rogue scratches like a wool. So my question is, I get the feeling I should be doing my 2500 on a soft pad DA as it's not a grit like 2000 where you have pig tail issues and am thinking it would help with rogue scratches, especially those ones on the edge, as that seems to be a trouble area. Any suggestions? I think I'm keeping everything as clean as can be. Not dipping rags in buckets or anything so as far as cleanliness I think it's as clean as possible given the atmosphere. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
It is funny that you posted this, as this is exactly the same reason I was interested in looking into the trizac system to eliminate the very same thing you are fighting with. The rougue scracthes are a real pain to deal with, and I had figured the trizac would help to get rid of this problem. But the real truth is it is just the nature of the beast. You are definately not alone, as seeing scracthes here and there IS VERY annoying when you start compounding, knowing you have to go back and start sanding some more.
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Old 04-11-2014, 06:58 PM
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I want to say thank you to MARTINSR, SHINE and other for this and other posts. I have learned so much here. Many thanks to you guys!
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Old 04-11-2014, 07:01 PM
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the eagle green 1000-2500 then trizac is a good system. pretty much does away with blocks and hand sanding. jimc on the spi users forum got me on it .

dry sanding the clear took some getting use to . i still wet sand some . i will say that dry sanding tells you more .
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Old 04-11-2014, 07:02 PM
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I want to say thank you to MARTINSR, SHINE and other for this and other posts. I have learned so much here. Many thanks to you guys!
Oh Heck yes, I have learned too! When I think of being able to put the convertible top on my car because of Dan and others over in the interior forum, it blows me away at how much knowledge is here on this site! I am thankful I can offer something too.


Brian
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Old 04-11-2014, 07:22 PM
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the eagle disc are actually yellow. it's their finishing disc.
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Old 04-11-2014, 07:56 PM
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some of the changes I made today was to cross my sanding pattern from the 2000, which was <--->. So today I went 1500= // \\ then 2000= <---> then 2500= // \\ I think it will help with at least breaking down those 2000 scratches a little more. I think part of the problem is the paper. We have Indasa 1500/2000 and then Norton black ice 2500. It's always been my belief that once you hit 1500 the paper has to be good. Maybe I wasn't noticing it as much yesterday but this Norton stuff doesn't cut for jack after 1/2 a panel. Also was evaluating the scratches more carefully before even thinking of trizac and cutting the edges extra with the 2000 and 2500 using my palm. I think it will work out better but don't know til I put a buffer on it. Guess I'm looking for an easy way out of a situation that's pretty much unavoidable. Man, buffing was so much easier with wool...as long as you ignore the swirls.
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Old 04-11-2014, 08:10 PM
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i think the eagle will serve you better . it last much longer than 3m or norton . plus you are using the soft pads on a da .
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Old 04-11-2014, 08:22 PM
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thanks, I'll look into it. I do like a little hard blocking and soft blocking with the 1500 to get an even peel and take some urethane wave out but after that is where the trouble starts.

so are you saying these da pads are to be used dry?

Got a link? I'm looking and can't find eagle grits up to 2500
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