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Old 09-24-2012, 05:33 AM
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cobalt327 cobalt327 is offline
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Originally Posted by es79 View Post
Geez, I'd already watched this before but I didn't listen. Around the 8:00 mark is when the float install happens. Not in the holes, just in the middle of it, and I had my pivot rod going right to left, his is left to right.
Installing the needle clip into one of the holes instead of hanging it off the crosspiece nearest to the power piston has to be the most common mistake made at reassembly, hands down. So you are in good company in that regard! Some models of Q-jets don't have the holes in the crosspiece of the float, so they're easier to deal with for someone not used to the Q-jet carb.

BTW, in the past it was common practice to omit the clip altogether. But nowadays w/the crappy fuel, I wouldn't recommend it because the clip will physically lift the needle in the event the swill we pump into our tanks causes the needle to gum up or stick.

In my experience the hardest part of reassembly is aligning the primary metering rods into the jets when installing the power piston assembly. With the plastic baffle in place, the job is done by feel- there's just no way to see what you're doing. Then getting the airhorn onto the main body w/the gasket, power piston, and accelerator pump assembly fighting you isn't much fun either, but still not as bad as the metering rods/jets deal, IMHO.

The most often forgotten part when reassembling a Q-jet has to be the spring under the power piston, followed by the accelerator pump check ball.

One more spot to check carefully is the small rubber coated steel gasket that goes under the seat of the needle and seat assembly. Often the gasket bonds itself to the carb body and it isn't noticed. Then a second gasket is used on top of the old one.

Another sore spot is the roll pin that the accelerator pump arm pivots on. When removing the airhorn, the roll pin is often driven all the way inwards until it hits the lip that locates the air filter housing. Then a pair of diagonals are needed to lever the pin back out so a screwdriver can be slipped behind it to reattach the pump arm. Using care or a feeler gauge blade or other thin metal stock between the end of the roll pin and lip will make reassembly a lot easier.
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