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Old 10-14-2017, 11:26 AM
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Ready to Paint My '26T

My 26 T was sandblasted, then sprayed with SPI epoxy, body and filler work completed, and re-sprayed with SPI epoxy. I then drove the car for almost three years. 15K miles. Primer has held up well, but is a little chalky. My theory was to drive it to get all the bugs out. I hit a deer with it and lost all motivation. I finally found a set of fenders and am ready to paint. New fenders are ready and primed also with SPI. What should I do with the 3 year old epoxy on the body and rear fenders? Should I scuff (what grit?) the old epoxy and re-spray with SPI? Or does it really need a re-spray? I really like that SPI epoxy. It's great stuff. Sands beautifully. It has a little sheen to it, so I use it as a guide coat for blocking. I am confident it is straight. Can I go right to my top coat without using a 2K primer? Top coat will be either acrylic enamel w/ hardener or SS urethane. I am really interested in SPI's black SS urethane, but I have zero knowledge or experience with urethane. Maybe you guys could help me make the choice? Thanks
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Old 10-15-2017, 08:12 AM
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That's a really neat car. I'm sure someone will jump in here with some advice soon.


454 RATTLER
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Old 10-16-2017, 05:46 AM
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I've been in your situation. I just sanded the old epoxy with 180 and reshot it.
The SS black is great just spray it with a 1.4 tip and shoot it like you want it to look. 2 coats is plenty but 3 should be what you need if your going to sand and buff. I always use SPI SS when doing solid colors awesome paint and you'll love the price. You can always call the company for advice too.
BTW, I just sprayed the SPI red for the first time and I love the color.
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Old 10-16-2017, 05:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
I've been in your situation. I just sanded the old epoxy with 180 and reshot it.
The SS black is great just spray it with a 1.4 tip and shoot it like you want it to look. 2 coats is plenty but 3 should be what you need if your going to sand and buff. I always use SPI SS when doing solid colors awesome paint and you'll love the price. You can always call the company for advice too.
BTW, I just sprayed the SPI red for the first time and I love the color.
Thanks deadbodyman. I was hoping someone had been there before.
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Old 05-24-2018, 09:01 AM
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Hey guys! My 26 T coupe paint project got postponed because I could not keep my shop warm enough to cure the SPI epoxy primer. Back on it now that it is warm enough. I have blocked the 3 yr old SPI primer with 180. Three years on the road has taken a toll. I now have some small filler spots and some small bare spots. SPI recommends 80 grit on bare metal. Should I go back over these spots with 80 before re-priming with SPI or is 180 rough enough in this case?
Another question. I just picked up a new gun at an auction. Brand new Eastwood Concours Pro, new in box, less than half Eastwood price. Couldn't pass it up. It comes with 1.3, 1.7, and 2.0 nozzles. Should I use the 1.7 or 2.0 to shoot the SPI epoxy? Also, a 1.4 nozzle is not available for this gun. What effect will trying to use a 1.3 instead of 1.4 nozzle to shoot the SPI urethane have? Thanks for any input.

Last edited by jaw22w; 05-24-2018 at 09:08 AM.
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Old 05-24-2018, 09:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaw22w View Post
Hey guys! My 26 T coupe paint project got postponed because I could not keep my shop warm enough to cure the SPI epoxy primer. Back on it now that it is warm enough. I have blocked the 3 yr old SPI primer with 180. Three years on the road has taken a toll. I now have some small filler spots and some small bare spots. SPI recommends 80 grit on bare metal. Should I go back over these spots with 80 before re-priming with SPI or is 180 rough enough in this case?
Another question. I just picked up a new gun at an auction. Brand new Eastwood Concours Pro, new in box, less than half Eastwood price. Couldn't pass it up. It comes with 1.3, 1.7, and 2.0 nozzles. Should I use the 1.7 or 2.0 to shoot the SPI epoxy? Also, a 1.4 nozzle is not available for this gun. What effect will trying to use a 1.3 instead of 1.4 nozzle to shoot the SPI urethane have? Thanks for any input.

Are you sure they say 80 on bare metal, that is REALLY over doing it if you ask me! I have SPI epoxy at home and the tech sheet for it, don't remember seeing it and have used it with 180 sanding prior for sure.

The 1.7 is a bit much if you don't have a real filling issue. If you are simply priming it to seal over stuff and it will get a sand and paint, your sanding is going to be a bit more than if you used a smaller tip. I would even try with the 1.3 and see what you get. I know I have been spraying it with a 1.5 and it's pretty filling.

Brian
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Old 05-24-2018, 11:26 AM
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That is an AWESOME TCoupe. You will find the people here very knowledgeable when it comes to SPI.

I can say I just shot my first gun full of SPI Epoxy yesterday, I had only previously brush painted SPI on some smaller parts and I am impressed as heck how easy it goes on and flows. I shot my deck lid and inner shell yesterday it was fun. I finished my bare steel with 180, used SPI's Grease and wax mixed my primer let it induce and hour or so and poured it into my CHEEP Harbor Fright purple spray gun. I ran 25 PSI on the gun and painted away.. I know now why HF says don't immerse the gun in solvent. The cheep purple paint gets gooey when Lacquer thinner gets on it.
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Old 05-24-2018, 11:48 AM
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1,3 tip for the epoxy and paint.. the 1.7 or 2.o for when you are using the high build and are going to block the car.. just sand the chalky away and go for it..

Check with Barry but i think he will ask for a prime coat after this long.. At least that is what I would do. Opinions may vary..

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Old 05-25-2018, 06:37 AM
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Thanks for the tips on nozzles, guys. I'll give the 1.3 nozzle a try. I also just went back to the SPI website. They do indeed recommend 80 grit on bare metal. I'm like you. I think 80 is a little overkill. but I sure don't want the epoxy to lift. Not thrilled with going over those spots with 80. It's going to cause more work than just the initial 80 sanding. I think I will give SPI this morning and see what he says.
Thanks guys.
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Old 05-25-2018, 07:21 AM
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I never heard of anything that is supposed to go over 180 on bare metal. I like 40 grit with a quick 80 grit after it. You can do the bare area in 80 then feather the surrounding material in 180. Thats what I suggest.
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Old 05-25-2018, 04:53 PM
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I called them earlier today. Said 80-180 would be ok. Great! Don't have to go back over it. He said just scuff and shoot a coat of epoxy. Then go right to base/clear. So I'm almost there.
Honestly it has taken me 3 years to make up my mind on color. The plan was always black.....up until last night. Now it is black fenders, running boards, and aprons with a very dark blue body. I haven't narrowed the blue down to a paint code yet. You know, one of those blues that look black in the shade. Solid color, no flake, pearl, metallic, etc. Any suggestions there?
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Old 05-25-2018, 05:09 PM
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I used to like Black Sapphire on the bubble-shaped Caprice / Impalas. Blue pearl that is almost black. I modfied the formula for use on one of my rides many years ago.

Edit: Woops you want a solid. Hmm I liked the code 29 dark blue on box-shaped GM trucks, its mighty dark.
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Old 05-25-2018, 05:43 PM
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PPG # is 3362 on that.

http://paintref.com/cgi-bin/chipdisp...k&info=&page=4
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Old 05-25-2018, 06:01 PM
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Sorry, twisted thought process...

I bet SPI has some dark blue you can cocktail with black to suit you if its not already dark enough. I am a believer in using the same brand all the way through.
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Old 05-25-2018, 09:26 PM
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I just checked with SPI again. They only offer red, white, and black in SS. Since they don't offer a blue, it will have to be another brand. To tell the truth these new urethanes scare the bejesus out of me. I've thought about it all winter. I think I will just go with the old standby enamel with hardener. I know the urethane is better paint, but I'm chicken. I know the hardener in enamel is not good and the SPI epoxy is probably not good either, but in my limited experience with both, it hasn't bothered me. I'm going to build a temporary paint booth in the shop with good ventilation tomorrow so I can get started re-priming. I just bought a new respirator also. Should be good to go.
I don't think I will need a gallon of either color. I estimated less than 80 sq. ft. for the body, and less than that for the fenders, aprons and running boards. I'm thinking 1/2 gallon of each maybe 3/4. Ya think I'm close?
That PPG #3362 looks about right. It looks black on my screen unless you tilt it just right. I'll check it out. Thanks
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