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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2008, 03:13 PM
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Ready to paint question

Well I'm almost ready to paint, or closer than I've been before. Feels like it has taken forever and hopefully everything is straight (first time with bodywork)

Question is....
I got everything straight (hopefully) and I blocked with 240 followed by 2 more coats of k36. This is how I have the parts sitting now while I finish up the other areas and start on the firewall. I was thinking about shooting the panels with some epoxy (for a sealer) then blocking with 400 before I apply my base. Should I do that or just do the 400 on the k36 then apply my base.

Also, completely different question... I'm going to shoot the firewall and interior of the car black (not gloss but kind of a flat), should I be going for single stage or 2 stage? Which would hold up better for under hood and dash area?

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Old 10-17-2008, 04:10 PM
 
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flat black

Ok here are some of the things I DON"T know.
I don't know how tough these new "flat look" paints are.
I know the whole idea is to mimic the look of the old rides where we would drive them around for months or years in primer because 1. We could not afford the paint 2. Didn't really know HOW to paint 3. Didin't have any place to paint it, but MOSTLY......it was because we were you dumb and full of........and so impatient and eager to DRIVE the new ride that we would go ahead and "street the thing, saying we would paint it "a little later" usually spouting some BS like we were holding off till the Girlfriend picked a color, or our Brother-in-law the painter got out of prison.
AHHHHHH but I digress.
Primer was never meant to be an outter coat.....IT"S PRIMER.
The outer color coat has all the good stuff, like UV barrier, and hard non porous surface to let the dirt, and stuff roll of instead of soaking in like it does with primer.
Ever see the primered ride that has a layer of brown rust just getting to surface from underneath, and finger prints of ever person who has ever come near the thing all over it?
So my point is........do I have a point? Yes......my point is are the new "fake flat" or "satin" finishes tough enough to deal with the elements, and the washing, grease, solvents, finger prints, an spilled beer??????
Is a Flat firewall going to absorb all the dirt?
Is a flat interior going to be a fingerprint repository for the FBI?
I also read something today where the guy said that maybe if your rubbed the flat stuff too hard it would make a shiny spot????
I have a daily driver 65 c10. It's my work truck / hot rod and the engine compartment is far from being smoothed out the way I want it, but that will have to wait.
Until then I hit it every month or so with Spray bomb gloss black and it looks fine for a while.
As for the interior.....I want the interior to shine if it's painted so I can clean it.
I'm not bustin your chops....just thinking out loud for the sake of discussion.
let us know how it works out.
I really am curious about the new products!
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Old 10-17-2008, 11:04 PM
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I agree with you, no primer on the outside for me... I've read the uv stuff and such and I don't really like the look anyway. My main question was sort of using the epoxy as a sealer. Should I do it now, then block with 400 before the base coat of color. use it later, such as spray, let it flash then apply base, or don't use the sealer at all and go right over top of the k36 (filler primer).

The firewall question was mainly a single or bc/cc suggestion. Whichever will hold up better is what I want to use.
From what I know the bc/cc I was looking at needed to have a flattening agent mixed in along with it. I dunno if that makes it stronger or less susceptible to the elements or not though. I'm new to all of this.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CustomConspiracy
Ok here are some of the things I DON"T know.
I don't know how tough these new "flat look" paints are.
I know the whole idea is to mimic the look of the old rides where we would drive them around for months or years in primer because 1. We could not afford the paint 2. Didn't really know HOW to paint 3. Didin't have any place to paint it, but MOSTLY......it was because we were you dumb and full of........and so impatient and eager to DRIVE the new ride that we would go ahead and "street the thing, saying we would paint it "a little later" usually spouting some BS like we were holding off till the Girlfriend picked a color, or our Brother-in-law the painter got out of prison.
AHHHHHH but I digress.
Primer was never meant to be an outter coat.....IT"S PRIMER.
The outer color coat has all the good stuff, like UV barrier, and hard non porous surface to let the dirt, and stuff roll of instead of soaking in like it does with primer.
Ever see the primered ride that has a layer of brown rust just getting to surface from underneath, and finger prints of ever person who has ever come near the thing all over it?
So my point is........do I have a point? Yes......my point is are the new "fake flat" or "satin" finishes tough enough to deal with the elements, and the washing, grease, solvents, finger prints, an spilled beer??????
Is a Flat firewall going to absorb all the dirt?
Is a flat interior going to be a fingerprint repository for the FBI?
I also read something today where the guy said that maybe if your rubbed the flat stuff too hard it would make a shiny spot????
I have a daily driver 65 c10. It's my work truck / hot rod and the engine compartment is far from being smoothed out the way I want it, but that will have to wait.
Until then I hit it every month or so with Spray bomb gloss black and it looks fine for a while.
As for the interior.....I want the interior to shine if it's painted so I can clean it.
I'm not bustin your chops....just thinking out loud for the sake of discussion.
let us know how it works out.
I really am curious about the new products!
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  #4 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2008, 01:24 AM
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Back to your question...... Block with 400 or 600 before you apply the Epoxy Sealer. Use a guide coat when blocking and you will see all the areas that "aren't straight". If you new to bodywork, you will be surprised at how many areas will need further work.

You don't sand Epoxy Sealer.

Frank
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Old 10-20-2008, 11:39 AM
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thanks for the info. I'll do that. I've been doing the guide coat and it does show a LOT. Hopefully I'm past any bad spots and can move on to paint soon.

Should I block the epoxy any before the base? or just spray it, let it flash and then spray my base?



Quote:
Originally Posted by Countilaw
Back to your question...... Block with 400 or 600 before you apply the Epoxy Sealer. Use a guide coat when blocking and you will see all the areas that "aren't straight". If you new to bodywork, you will be surprised at how many areas will need further work.

You don't sand Epoxy Sealer.

Frank
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