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  #61 (permalink)  
Old 08-07-2006, 12:45 PM
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillyShope
If your CG location and wheelbase are as indicated in this example, the car will squat slightly. The link intersection is slightly below the no squat/no rise line.

My CG is lower (i'm guessing by about 6") closer to the frame, and my front wheel will be a few inches further forward, so that should put my intersect line just slightly above or really close to the no squat/no rise line.

I guess I needed somebody to draw me a picture! DUH!

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  #62 (permalink)  
Old 08-17-2006, 01:21 AM
 
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  #63 (permalink)  
Old 08-17-2006, 03:58 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillyShope
If your CG location and wheelbase are as indicated in this example, the car will squat slightly. The link intersection is slightly below the no squat/no rise line.

This whole thread has been fascinating as well as educational, for me. I have so many tabs open in my browser with the posted images that each tab just has dots instead of a label.

How do you determine the center of gravity for a car, short of hanging it by various points and dropping a plumb line from each?
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  #64 (permalink)  
Old 08-17-2006, 05:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grouch

How do you determine the center of gravity...?
Fortunately, the exact height of the CG is not all that critical. For most purposes, an eyeballed value will suffice. If you feel you need something better than that, there are shops set up to achieve the necessary accuracy for a CG height calculation while tipping the car at a severe angle. I do not recommend this technique, however, for the average racer working out of his garage. An alternative procedure is to tabulate the weights and heights of individual components and then lump the remainder at a reasonable height. If you carry this far enough, you can achieve excellent accuracy.
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  #65 (permalink)  
Old 08-17-2006, 07:34 PM
 
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Thanks. I was hoping it wasn't something that had to be dead on for calculating those links, but what I don't know about suspensions is dangerous.
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  #66 (permalink)  
Old 08-18-2006, 08:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillyShope
Fortunately, the exact height of the CG is not all that critical. For most purposes, an eyeballed value will suffice. If you feel you need something better than that, there are shops set up to achieve the necessary accuracy for a CG height calculation while tipping the car at a severe angle. I do not recommend this technique, however, for the average racer working out of his garage. An alternative procedure is to tabulate the weights and heights of individual components and then lump the remainder at a reasonable height. If you carry this far enough, you can achieve excellent accuracy.
Some people approximate the sprung mass CG height with the height of the top bell housing bolt or the camshaft centerline. I have had good luck tipping the car till it will balance on just 2 wheels...I can't think of a funner way to do it but you do need very good approach and departure angles that aren't often found on hotrods. I guess you could tip it side to side as well...but I have never tried that. I suspect tire deflection would skew the results (suspension deflection is handled with solid links instead of coilovers).
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  #67 (permalink)  
Old 10-07-2006, 08:10 AM
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjoe
After a few hours at my local adult beverage establishment, I came up with a design for my RPU. It's loosely based on the trailing arm suspension described in the latest issue of R & C. It uses a pair of Ford 'bones as trailing arms welded to the rear end, a pair of coil springs, panhard bar and shocks. My questions are, will this work, and is the desired pinion angle 5 degrees up? If you have any questions, please ask, as I am unsure what you need to know. BTW, it's hard to tell in my drawings, but the panhard bar will be level with the ground at ride height, but the control arm will be pitched up in the front just like it is drawn.
Nice drawings...lol.....Check out the 71-72 Chevy trucks, this is the exact setup as my 71 C10. Your angle of attack is no more then 3 deg between the two. Your engine should have a -3 deg down at the tail shaft of the tranny, your carb should be as flat as possible, and your pinion angle is +3 deg towards the tail shaft. This keeps everything linear and will respond during those rough rides out back. Do check out the Chevy trucks of 71.
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  #68 (permalink)  
Old 11-21-2006, 09:08 AM
 
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Ladder bars?

What you have sketched out looks like a ladder bar suspension. This works great to launch a car in a straight line, but is not what I would call streetable. I have driven and ridden a couple of ladder bar cars, not fun on the corners, especially in the rain.

The three link described above would work much better.
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  #69 (permalink)  
Old 11-21-2006, 02:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 48 Dodge
What you have sketched out looks like a ladder bar suspension.
The lines are not links. They're construction lines drawn through the pivot points for the links.

Sorry. I should have made that clearer.
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