Rebuilding a 350 into a 383 stroker. Need help on pistons and deck clearance. - Page 4 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 08-25-2016, 06:20 PM
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Most all of the popular cam grinders produce "retro-fit roller cams" for earlier non-roller cam Gen I blocks back to 1955. The rollers are kept square to the cam by link bars that pair two lifters together, so that you use 8 pairs of roller lifters.....
http://www.aa1car.com/library/camshaft_roller.jpg
http://www.edelbrock.com/media/news/...ford-chevy.jpg
I generally recommend Howards to most fellows who ask, because their quality is superb and their price is usually under that of other grinders. They've been grinding cams since Noah was a teenager.
http://howardscams.com/rt-4932-downloads.html

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Old 08-25-2016, 06:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1 View Post
No, that's bass ackwards. Measure the block deck height, then shop for a kit that will fit into that block deck height, then cut the block decks to the correct block deck height for the kit and whatever head gasket you have to use, based on whether you will use iron heads or aluminum heads.

And by the way, you should plan to limit static compression ratio to no more than 9.5:1 with iron heads and no more than 10.5:1 with aluminum heads. I noticed in one of your posts that you said you wanted to run regular gas. Does that mean regular pump gas as opposed to racing fuel or does that mean that you want to be able to run on 87 octane "regular" pump gas? If it's 87 octane pump gas, I would recommend tightening up the squish to 0.030" to 0.035" and limiting the static compression ratio to no more than 9.0:1. That will mean using a very mild cam with maybe 204-206 degrees intake duration @0.050" lift and an operating range of roughly 1200 to 5000 rpm's.

Every engine build should begin with the available fuel quality.

.

So just to make sure I am understanding this correctly, with premium fuel I am able to go up to 10.5 CR with aluminum heads?
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old 08-25-2016, 07:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evilash1996 View Post
So just to make sure I am understanding this correctly, with premium fuel I am able to go up to 10.5 CR with aluminum heads?

Careful with the term 'premium'. It has a different octane rating dependng on the area you live. Locally, premium is either 92 (no ethanol) or 93 (with ethanol). But in some areas premium means 91 octane. Many will throw ethanol under the bus with tales of engine woes due to it, but can you say detonation resistance. At 10.5:1 ethanol is your friend - maybe not your fuel line's friend, but your piston, ring lands, and head's friend.
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  #49 (permalink)  
Old 08-25-2016, 07:40 PM
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Im fairly sure in my area its 93 octane.
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Old 08-25-2016, 08:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evilash1996 View Post
Im fairly sure in my area its 93 octane.
Then you should have no problem running 10.5:1, although you will still have to jump through the hoops with squish/quench to make the motor bulletproof. You know that the higher the static compression ratio, the more cam you have to run, right? And the more cam you run, the more the operating range changes to higher revs, right? And the more cam you run, the more rear gear you will need, right?
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Old 08-27-2016, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by johnsongrass1 View Post
Keep in mind your going to get all kinds of differing opinions. They are worth about what you paid for them so I'd advise you not get to caught up in them.
If you can find someone you can communicate with and you trust that's worth more than a 1000 opinions.
+1 to that ^
Evilash, Im working on a 383 build as well and the guys on here have helped me a bunch with their knowledge already, post up what you have and the guys/gals on here will be happy to help I'm sure. Do what the others have said though, put it all on paper first that way you can identify a potential problem before you shell out any benjamins!

The prices on the machine shop are fairly consistent with what I see around here in NC.
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Old 08-27-2016, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by BROWN616 View Post
+1 to that ^
Evilash, Im working on a 383 build as well and the guys on here have helped me a bunch with their knowledge already, post up what you have and the guys/gals on here will be happy to help I'm sure. Do what the others have said though, put it all on paper first that way you can identify a potential problem before you shell out any benjamins!

The prices on the machine shop are fairly consistent with what I see around here in NC.
How far are you in your build?
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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 08-27-2016, 06:36 PM
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Ive got the block in the garage and waiting on the bottom end to get here from SCAT. I had several different configurations in mind and ran them by the folks on the forum here and they were all great with info... When I get the bottom end to the house I'm going to post another thread with pics to document my build. Posts are junk without Pics! LOL The guys/gals on here have a vast knowledge base and great experience to boot! The availability of having folks on the forum that are proficient at dyno'ing is great. I bet I went through three "paper" builds until I got to one that would suit my wants/application and now I'm assembling parts. Check for my build when I get the thread up and running. Let me know if I can be of any assistance, this is my first stroker build but I've done quite a few 350ci/355ci combos that have worked out pretty well for me. I've found, and I'm sure others will agree, builds work out the best when properly thought out and documented on paper before beginning. My major obstacle is it's hard to find decent machine shops anywhere around me. But then again, I'm OCD as heck, and I already knew my base beginning point was going to be a 383 with a forged rotating assembly around 11:1 compression for a street/strip type of combo. Running pump gas was not a major concern for me as I live close enough to Mooresville and Concord NC to get my hands on barrels of high octane stuff relatively easily, minus the cost! ha! Good luck
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Old 08-30-2016, 12:43 PM
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Customer just dyno'd this:
block was a 95 TBI 350 2 bolt roller block, bored the block 30 over, installed splayed caps for insurance, Mahle flattop Pistons, AFR 195 65cc heads, hydraulic roller cam .548/.510 233/235 108 sep, Victor Jr. Intake, AED 850, 3500 stall. At the moment, I have a 8.8 limited slip with 4.10 gear with 350 turbo tranny.

532HP at 6200
515#/ft at 5000
At least 450#/ft from 4000 to 6200.

Going in a 67 Deuce.
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Old 08-30-2016, 02:35 PM
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I have Howards lifters in both of my small block chevy builds and one is using the oem style roller lifters in the 87 and up block style and I am using a set of there retrofit hydraulic roller lifters of the link bar style in my new dart shp block and have yet to have it completed but is in the works and there lifters are made by one of the only few companies that make lifters and its made by Morel and the quality is just really spot on. I use the link bar style retrofit lifters on anything with over 530 lift using a 1.5 rocker arm ratio as using the oem design on anything with more lift then 530 you run the risk of the lifter dropping down to far and getting undone from the dogbone hold down bar and then at that point your lifter would then spin around and it would ruing your cam and lifter and maybe even the block. What's nice on the howards retrofit link bar style lifters they are made .200 taller and clear the higher lifter wall when using them on a oem roller type 87 and up block or something like the dart shp block. The link bar is able to go up and down without having to worry about it hitting the corners of the lifter bore during its movement.
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Old 08-31-2016, 01:27 AM
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Which lifters do you have Eric, i see 4 different Howards lifters?

https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...make/chevrolet
https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...make/chevrolet
https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...make/chevrolet
https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...make/chevrolet

I think i try to get those 91160 lifters for my build.
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  #57 (permalink)  
Old 08-31-2016, 10:05 AM
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Engine Calculators Help a lot

Wallace Racing - Automotive Calculators

Just plug your stack in to this and it will give you your Static and Dynamic Compression. Dynamic is what you need to worry about mostly. You can be at 10:1 Static Compression like mine running 350 with Iron Vortecs which can handle more compression than older SBC heads. With my "stack" - Cam at 60 ABDC (Comp 268HE), Deck height.025", gasket thickness .015", Stroke 5.7", Bore Std 4" Head cc's at 65-66 involved, my Dynamic Compression would be 8.39:1. Still I am going to go with 91 Octane for cheap insurance. But Probably could back off the timing and run 87 in a pinch once I get the Fuel mix dial in. By the way these guys are worth a ton in knowledge. I just got back into old Chevs from being into Aircooled VW's recently and had to learn all the new stuff with them. It is great to find guru enthusiasts like me!! Well maybe me not a guru yet on Chevy's. LOL!

Last edited by arnoldsel; 08-31-2016 at 10:11 AM.
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  #58 (permalink)  
Old 09-01-2016, 02:15 PM
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How did you calculate the ABDC of a cam?
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Old 09-01-2016, 04:06 PM
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Abdc?

You should be able to get that from your cam card specs that come with them or look at the website for this info. Compcams Publishes them on their website when choosing the cams.
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  #60 (permalink)  
Old 09-01-2016, 05:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evilash1996 View Post
How did you calculate the ABDC of a cam?
If you have the intake centerline and 0.050" duration, I can show you how to find the 0.050" intake close point. If you have the intake centerline and 0.006" duration, I can show you ow to find the 0.006" intake close point.
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