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Old 11-17-2018, 12:35 PM
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ReClear or Repaint?

So I am doing this on the cheap, I am not going for a showroom shine. I just want a decent looking car (1 color!).
I used a purple HF gun and DupliColor Lacquer paint and clear.
The paint seems to be OK, the clear looked OK until after I sanded it with 1500 then compounded it with Macguiers ultimate. After a day it then turned 'white'.
LOTS more sanding got most of it to be no longer white. I really do not want to sand the entire car this much. SO....
Can I just use 800 and reclear? (the current clear is less than 2 months old)
I recently learned I was probably holding the gun too far away so it was not a smooth coat. (and the gun was not set up properly it seems)
OR
Should I just 600-800 and shoot a layer or 2 of paint then clear to 'start over'?
Image
1) As it looked when I got it
2) Hood after 1500 and compounded
3) Door same
4) Close up of hood
5) Door wet (when it dries it looks like image 3)
6) Hood as it is now (sort of, a little spot now shows as white after a day but tolerable I guess)

I think my issue is totally in the clear but would like to have it be metallic green always, not only when wet...hahaha
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Old 11-17-2018, 12:48 PM
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If you have enough on it to sand and re clear and are willing to give it another shot, use some cheap catalyzed clear instead of the air dry stuff and that will give the look you want. DC clear can be polished up if you apply tons of it, but you can only keep it decent looking like a year or so if you try hard.
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Old 11-17-2018, 12:55 PM
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There should be plenty to sand and reclear, initally I put 4-5 coats 15 minutes apart. But that is assuming I got it on evenly in the first place which I don't thin I did.
I know if I kept sanding the doors etc I can get to look good but that is just too much work since I did the hood 5-6 times with 1000-1500-2000 ....looks OK now, and really is smooth as a glass surface. But a couple spots remain and I think I burned through a spot or 2 now so I am not afraid to 'start over' or just reclear.
Just going for the best advice I can find.
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Old 11-17-2018, 12:59 PM
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I also meant to say that I was told I might have had the gun too far away so it probably was almost dry before it even hit the car.
So I should hold the gun closer to the surface about 6" and that using lacquer like before will just 'melt' into the existing clear and leave a solid surface. But I do not want to waste my time if this is only a guess. If it doesn't work then I would have to scratch/paint/clear to fix that.
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Old 11-17-2018, 02:10 PM
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you borked the job when you went for that crap... Your best cause of action now is to use an acrylic enamel with a hardener after sanding everything off smooth.

this paint is pretty good stuff, and will be about the same as what you wasted on the spray can, in a quart can of dupli color

http://www.tcpglobal.com/Automotive-...toration-Shop/
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Old 11-17-2018, 02:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matt167 View Post
you borked the job when you went for that crap... Your best cause of action now is to use an acrylic enamel with a hardener after sanding everything off smooth.

this paint is pretty good stuff, and will be about the same as what you wasted on the spray can, in a quart can of dupli color

Restoration Shop

I do appreciate your comment but you are off.
My question was should I reclear or repaint. The job is not 'borked' as you put it since if you look at the images above you can see I fixed the hood with lots of work of sanding down the clear.
I am not delusional in thinking that $18/qt paint is going to make a show car, I did say I don't care, I just want 1 color, and that color is not white over green.
The door is already half the white gone after some more sanding. Just lots of work and if I can respray more clear to 'melt' and blend then I will do that.
The issue is in the CLEAR. it looks good when wet so the paint is fine.
I included a close up and you can see how spotted the clear is.

I know it can get results though......
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Old 11-17-2018, 02:59 PM
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sand entire car and spray with single stage urethane. forget the clear. Just make sure the urethane does not lift the existing paint. I painted my truck with single stage and wet sanded and buffed and it look very good. However it does not go out in the rain and is garaged. It has lasted 18 years. Clear is required for show cars and is the best but unless you have a show car not necessary. If you clear put on altleast 4-5 coats as once you sand through you have to start over. Just my two cents.
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Old 11-17-2018, 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by alwill923 View Post
sand entire car and spray with single stage urethane. forget the clear. Just make sure the urethane does not lift the existing paint. I painted my truck with single stage and wet sanded and buffed and it look very good. However it does not go out in the rain and is garaged. It has lasted 18 years. Clear is required for show cars and is the best but unless you have a show car not necessary. If you clear put on altleast 4-5 coats as once you sand through you have to start over. Just my two cents.


Thanks, yeah, do nto need a show car, it is only a 93 camaro...now throw me a 69 malibu chevelle SS and then we have another story to tell!

So you think I can get away with scuffing with some 600, preclean stuff then single stage?
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Old 11-17-2018, 03:47 PM
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Researching shows I shouldn't put Urethane on top of lacquer....
I really do not want to sand back down again!
Or am I mistaken?
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Old 11-17-2018, 03:54 PM
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If it doesn't wrinkle the lacquer, you'd be OK. Technically, most basecoat is lacquer. But in a "for best results" world, using the lacquer is indeed a no-no and has to come off to put a nice job down. I was thinking more along the lines of just clearing from the side molding up with a couple quarts of urethane clear. And carefully spotting color if you broke through. Because just by using urethane clear you would have shine immediately without buffing. 2 or 3 coats, done. Buff when you feel like it.
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Old 11-17-2018, 04:21 PM
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OK so now I am a little confused.
You are suggesting just redoing the clear with Urethane and not lacquer.
The other guy is suggesting just using a single stage I assume to repaint it and it should shine (if sprayed properly) without the need for all this.

Paintforcars.com has what I would want (the green metallic) for $80 for the gallon. Would this not be better than trying to fix what I have?
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Old 11-17-2018, 04:59 PM
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It looks to me like you got the color down OK, so I was thinking least arm work to fix. You know you have to sand the rough parts flat in any case. Clear or single stage is your choice and eighty bucks is hard to beat.

The single stage suggestion is valid and I may be adventurous in saying you could spray urethane clear over that... if it would "let" you on a test piece without wrinkling. But any paint could potentially do the same.

Its really a matter of what you're comfortable with attempting, and my suggestion of urethane clear is just how I think I would approach it. I want hardener in anything the sun sees, and urethane clears can dry pretty quick and contain less solvent than lacquer. But they are high.

Trouble with my idea is you have to buy the stuff and try it to find out. But same with the single stage. If it was me and I was trying to get lasting shine but was happy with the color... and whats on there isn't dirty yet... why not?
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Old 11-17-2018, 05:07 PM
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I see what you mean, but if I have to sand it flat I am afraid I will cut through to the base since it does appear it went on spotty and didn't run and merge into a single coat of clear.
I got the hood looking nice but I also see one area that is not metallic at all, and I feel it is because I sanded into the base.
If I were to try to fix the clear I would hand sand, if I were to 1 stage it I would use 600 or 800 on a DA.
But you are right, either way I need to spend the money. I might go with the 1 stage. if the clear doesn't work then I will still need to buy the 1 stage so why spend more money? I can test with 1 stage, if it works then great, if not then I know I need to sand to surface again.
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Old 11-17-2018, 05:09 PM
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The Dupli color paint shop is an overpriced garbage lacquer paint which is the problem. It never ends well and when it's done, options are limited. The solvents in urethane will melt lacquer so if you go urethane, you have to get rid of every bit of lacquer or your going to end up with a mess.. All is not lost though, because you can put an acrylic enamel over urethane without much issue. Either Paintforcars or TCP Global will produce far better results than what your getting with Duplicolor. I have used paintforcars epoxy in the past. That starfire stuff and it was garbage but the paint is probably ok. The Restoration shop from TCP global is my go- to paint. Fairly cheap with decent results. Keep in mind with a single stage paint a solid color will come out better than a metallic
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Old 11-17-2018, 05:20 PM
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Well you said all is not lost...how so?
You mentioned putting enamel over urethane but I have lacquer...so how is it not lost?
(I knew it was kind of garbage, and I think it was my application, not the paint actually....if you see one of the images i did it right on the roof area or I was just lucky!)
But what is my solution to fix this? Just sand it all the way down and start over with a urethane 1 stage or something? (I am not afraid of the work, I do know that there is nothing I can do that can't be fixed short of blowing up the car that is!)
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