Refurbish A/C 225 Lincwelder or buy new DC Stick/Tig? - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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Old 10-23-2016, 06:08 PM
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Refurbish A/C 225 Lincwelder or buy new DC Stick/Tig?

I decided having a portable welder just makes little sense to spend money on.

The old A/C 225 Tombstone really could use new leads. It has what I think are #4 leads. 8' ground and 12-15' ( never actually measured ) electrode.. But they are old, worn and could use replaced. equal length leads would be nice but they don't need to be any longer than they are. At most 20' each..

I figure I could spend $150 on 50' of cable. Probably #2 or #4, a couple Tweco panel mount female connectors and a couple cable mount male connectors, and create a pretty slick setup... But it will still be an A/C stick welder. It's still pretty capable and they have only been built since the 50's. This one is late 70's I think. Not sure if it's copper or aluminum wound but it does work good anyway and short of a lightning strike, I don't think it will ever quit..

Or, I could leave the tombstone as a backup and get something like an Everlast 140ST DC Stick welder with lift start TIG capabilities, for ~$100 more.. Seems more capable than the old Lincoln, is portable/dual voltage BUT, the inverter electronics won't be as forgiving as the old transformer.. I could get the 200ST version for only a little more also

Which should I do?

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Old 10-24-2016, 07:16 AM
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lincoln 225 welder

they are an animal.. i've had mine for over 20 yrs and i got it from my brother. so who knows how old it is.. but it works every time. your money your choice but i'd stay with the lincoln..
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Old 10-27-2016, 09:32 AM
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The old Tombstone works every time. I still use it. But the ground clamp is getting weak and the leads have a lot of electrical tape covering cracks.

What size leads should I use for 15-20'? The Lincoln chart suggests #3 is ok up to 50' and I think what is there is #4 or #2.. I'm thinking of dropping to #1 and using 15' leads but I don't want to go too big since it's harder to work with
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Old 10-28-2016, 03:08 PM
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Get some #2 welding cable. It uses very fine wires so it is very flexible. To keep from damaging the cable jacket use some split cable covering with a small bit of shrink wrap at each end. New clamps are available at welding supply houses and even Harbor Freight. Don't get the cheap ones at HF, They aren't good for much. The have a better clamp that costs just a bit more that will work well.
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Old 10-30-2016, 08:19 PM
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I was looking at Temco #2. It's $60 for 25' of red and 25' of black, so not a bad deal.

Id there any reason I should change the electrode holder? what is on there is a twist lock, probably a Jackson. Seems to work fine but I could get a brand new Jackson for not a lot of money if I should. The grounding clamp, I'm just going to find the best one I can and grab it. Seems $30 will buy something high quality like what is on the machine now. I'd keep the clamp but the spring is soft now
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Old 10-31-2016, 03:25 PM
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As long as you can get a good connection between the new cables and the old rod holder it is good to go.
If the spring on you ground connection is the only bad part you can repair the spring.
You will need a magnet, a torch, a bucket with water and as much epson salts as you can disolve in it, a toaster oven that will heat to 550F, and a bucket of used motor oil.
Start by removing the spring from the clamp. Heat it with the torch to bend it out to give it more tension. mount the magnet so it is over your bucket of water and epson salts. Put the spring on the magnet so it is between the magnet and the bucket. Heat the spring from the bottom slowly getting it hot from the bottom up. When it is hot enough it will fall from the magnet into the bucket. (it will lose its magnetic properties) You can add Ice to the water and epson salt but as long as it is room temperature or less it is fine.
Now your spring is brittle so don't flex it. Place the spring in the toaster oven and turn it to 550F. Walk away and set a timer for three hours. When the timer goes off set the bucket with oil as close to the toaster oven as you can.Turn the toaster oven off and with a pair of needle-nosed pliers place the spring quickly into the oil. Don't mind the smoke - it's normal after sloshing the spring around the smoking oil for a few minutes it should be cool enough to set on a cloth. (don't use paper towels) Once it has cooled so you can handle it wipe it dry with a cloth towel. It is now ready to reinstall!

I would not do this in your wife's kitchen or anywhere that she likes to be. For some reason my wife thought I had ruined the toaster oven by heating steel in it and she swore she could smell the oil smoke for weeks after my repair was done. It cost me a new toaster oven and curtains for the kitchen. Do it in your shop and then put the toaster oven back in the kitchen.
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