Reinforce fiberglass tilt frontend - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans Advertise
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2014, 08:23 AM
Fang16's Avatar
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: Project change
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Rogers, Ar.
Posts: 855
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 46
Thanked 64 Times in 60 Posts
Reinforce fiberglass tilt frontend

41 Willys has a tilt frontend thatís starting to crack just above the hinge points on both sides. Looks like the glass wasnít roughed up where the cracks are. Thinking I need to take a screwdriver or something and break out the glass until I get to where it has good adhesion and lay new glass along with straightening the hinge point.
Ideas, comments?
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20140507_130025.jpg
Views:	238
Size:	1.15 MB
ID:	144346   Click image for larger version

Name:	20140507_130034.jpg
Views:	259
Size:	1.04 MB
ID:	144354   Click image for larger version

Name:	20140507_130053.jpg
Views:	216
Size:	1.33 MB
ID:	144362   Click image for larger version

Name:	20140507_130113.jpg
Views:	147
Size:	835.1 KB
ID:	144370  

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2014, 09:40 AM
BOBCRMAN@aol.com's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Holly, michigan
Posts: 9,049
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 113
Thanked 572 Times in 489 Posts
Break out the bad, then take a grinder or sandpaper and rough up the base material.. Grease and wax remover.. Looks like maybe the original installer didn't break the surface to remove the wax and didn't get a good bond.
Finished fiberglass has a wax added to it to keep the surface from staying tacky. The wax rises to the surface on curing and must be removed for subsequent additions of material.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
The Following User Says Thank You to [email protected] For This Useful Post:
AutoGear (05-09-2014)
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2014, 10:55 AM
OneMoreTime's Avatar
Hotrodders.com moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Health and safety in the shop or garage
Last journal entry: Yard Dog pic
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Washington State
Age: 75
Posts: 9,581
Wiki Edits: 3

Thanks: 300
Thanked 720 Times in 614 Posts
36 or 40 grit rolocs to grind out quite a ways from where the cracks exist and then layers of mat and cloth to about 8-10 mm thickness. I would be out at least 6-8 inches from the crack and taper into the thickness of the hood my self.. use laminating resin for this project...

Sam
__________________
I have tried most all of it and now do what is known to work..
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
The Following User Says Thank You to OneMoreTime For This Useful Post:
AutoGear (05-09-2014)
 
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2014, 12:54 PM
ogre's Avatar
the 'Duracell Project'
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Motown
Posts: 2,294
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 557 Times in 442 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by OneMoreTime View Post
36 or 40 grit rolocs to grind out quite a ways from where the cracks exist and then layers of mat and cloth to about 8-10 mm thickness. I would be out at least 6-8 inches from the crack and taper into the thickness of the hood my self.. use laminating resin for this project...

Sam
as stated grind out far enough to patch it correctly and to make sure there aren't any other bonding issues
then make the repair a lot bigger and thicker than what you think you need
my preference is to use mat only, 3/4 oz mat will conform better in convoluted areas, though you will need more layers.
cut the mat into strips and tear it into 2x2, 3x3 or 4x4 pieces and overlap the pieces
6 or 7 layers of 3/4 oz mat will give you aprox a 1/4''

Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
The Following User Says Thank You to ogre For This Useful Post:
AutoGear (05-09-2014)
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2014, 04:42 PM
NEW INTERIORS's Avatar
life is a temporary assignment
 

Last journal entry: 41 WILLYS FRAME
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 11,023
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2,396
Thanked 1,573 Times in 1,033 Posts
ALWAYS wipe down after grinding with acetone and before you lay up more glass... This will clean it and make it tacky again..

And never cut with scissors unless you want to see a line in your work when done... Always tear the Mat,, this will leave it looking like it was never repaired,, If done right..


I re-glassed this new floor in this t-bucket,,, No lines... Look's like it came out the mold that way...

Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20101023_27.JPG
Views:	658
Size:	97.4 KB
ID:	144434  

Last edited by NEW INTERIORS; 05-08-2014 at 04:48 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to NEW INTERIORS For This Useful Post:
AutoGear (05-09-2014), charchri4 (05-10-2014), John long (05-10-2014)
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 05-09-2014, 06:17 AM
steve392's Avatar
just passin' thru
 
Last wiki edit: How to title a hot rod
Last journal entry: Willys is Finished!
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: NJ
Posts: 320
Wiki Edits: 2

Thanks: 0
Thanked 26 Times in 22 Posts
Fang,

I did something similar when I bonded mounting tabs for the ribs on my Willys 'glass tilt front. It's in my journal here: Hot Rod Photo Journal - steve392's Journal

Take a look at entries #151 and #152.I used multiple layers of mat, overlapping each layer with a larger piece. Not exactly your situation, but the idea is the same.

Steve
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
The Following User Says Thank You to steve392 For This Useful Post:
AutoGear (05-09-2014)
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 05-10-2014, 07:25 PM
charchri4's Avatar
Jim Stainer
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Sunny SW Minnesota
Posts: 96
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 53
Thanked 13 Times in 8 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by NEW INTERIORS View Post
And never cut with scissors unless you want to see a line in your work when done... Always tear the Mat,, this will leave it looking like it was never repaired,, If done right..
I have have laid up a truck load of glass and never heard this before. THANK YOU!!!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
The Following User Says Thank You to charchri4 For This Useful Post:
NEW INTERIORS (05-10-2014)
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 05-10-2014, 08:19 PM
NEW INTERIORS's Avatar
life is a temporary assignment
 

Last journal entry: 41 WILLYS FRAME
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 11,023
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2,396
Thanked 1,573 Times in 1,033 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by charchri4 View Post
I have have laid up a truck load of glass and never heard this before. THANK YOU!!!
I see a lot of people doing fiber glass that don't know about this... If you make a repair like I said and do it right,,, Know one will ever know you did it...

It is good to know when laying up a big part in a mold... You can do haft today and the other haft a day or so later.. The key when stopping in a mold is to make sure what ever you have that is wet,, Make sure you wet it out to the tips of the mat that is down,,, You don't want to leave any tips not wet out...


I learned a lot when I hand made this car... My very first time using fiber glass after my friend showed me about glass... First thing I ever made,,, NO MOLD..

Now that I know how to use glass,, I can make anything I can think of... Very fun stuff once you know..


Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	100_2263.jpg
Views:	2293
Size:	82.2 KB
ID:	145170   Click image for larger version

Name:	100_2254.jpg
Views:	518
Size:	54.2 KB
ID:	145178  
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 05-11-2014, 04:42 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Age: 56
Posts: 13
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by NEW INTERIORS View Post
I see a lot of people doing fiber glass that don't know about this... If you make a repair like I said and do it right,,, Know one will ever know you did it...

It is good to know when laying up a big part in a mold... You can do haft today and the other haft a day or so later.. The key when stopping in a mold is to make sure what ever you have that is wet,, Make sure you wet it out to the tips of the mat that is down,,, You don't want to leave any tips not wet out...


I learned a lot when I hand made this car... My very first time using fiber glass after my friend showed me about glass... First thing I ever made,,, NO MOLD..

Now that I know how to use glass,, I can make anything I can think of... Very fun stuff once you know..


Wow! I can't even imagine how awesome that would have been if you used Carbon fiber instead of fiberglass!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 05-11-2014, 12:49 PM
NEW INTERIORS's Avatar
life is a temporary assignment
 

Last journal entry: 41 WILLYS FRAME
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 11,023
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2,396
Thanked 1,573 Times in 1,033 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by La Rossa View Post
Wow! I can't even imagine how awesome that would have been if you used Carbon fiber instead of fiberglass!

Never was into carbon fiber...
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 05-12-2014, 04:48 AM
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: 50 Ply wagon
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Pottstown,Pa
Posts: 753
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 52 Times in 51 Posts
I have taken 1/8" aluminum pieces and glassed them into places where stress cracks could happen. Also using layered aluminum in areas where bolts must pass thru helps with tightening without cracking the glass.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 05-12-2014, 06:24 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 654
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2
Thanked 77 Times in 67 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by La Rossa View Post
Wow! I can't even imagine how awesome that would have been if you used Carbon fiber instead of fiberglass!
Now THAT would be cool.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
51 Chevy Truck Tilt Frontend 51Panel Body - Exterior 14 07-28-2007 09:34 AM
56 panel tilt frontend hwyhog Body - Exterior 1 03-13-2006 08:19 PM
tilt frontend hwyhog Body - Exterior 1 03-13-2006 08:17 PM
39 Chevy Pu Tilt Frontend TOMMYDALE Introduce Yourself 4 01-22-2006 08:55 PM
Looking for a fiberglass tilt frontend for my 65 Impala Impala Freak Body - Exterior 1 01-14-2006 07:51 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:39 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2020 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.