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Old 01-16-2017, 12:56 PM
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Removing large quantities of Bondo

We're talking Bondo of 3/8"+

I've thought about trying to tap with a deablow hammer to try and loosen the stuff and pry with a scraper. I'm a rookie.

The pic isn't good but the line on top is about where the metal is...
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Old 01-16-2017, 02:35 PM
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Here's my build thread so you can see what I'm working with

https://www.hotrodders.com/forum/jour...ge=1&_k=ecn6xs
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Old 01-16-2017, 05:03 PM
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You could grind it out with 24grit. Makes a lot of dust though. Depending on the location and thickness of the metal, I've had great success using a torch to heat it from the backside, then just scrape it off with a puttyknife.
"But it will cause trouble with the metal!" you say. Well, if the mud is that thick, you've already got trouble with the metal. A little heat won't hurt.
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Old 01-16-2017, 07:43 PM
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I'm hoping that like the front fenders the Bondo was used instead of straightening or to make the lines fit the modifications
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Old 01-16-2017, 09:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by st3gamefarm View Post
You could grind it out with 24grit. Makes a lot of dust though. Depending on the location and thickness of the metal, I've had great success using a torch to heat it from the backside, then just scrape it off with a puttyknife.
"But it will cause trouble with the metal!" you say. Well, if the mud is that thick, you've already got trouble with the metal. A little heat won't hurt.
That is true. the heat is the bomb on that thick bondo

Sam
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Old 01-18-2017, 04:40 PM
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Wire wheel on angle grinder cuts it like a warm knife in butter.

Last edited by 68NovaSS; 01-20-2017 at 11:46 AM.
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Old 01-18-2017, 09:21 PM
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[quote=Lizer;4045074]Wire wheel on angle grinder cuts it like a warm knife in butter.




I 100% agree. Just redid my '66 mustang and the previous owner had added a fake hood scoop which was all cracked out and look bad. Took the wire wheel on my grinder and removed 1/2" thick bondo in no time at all. Much quicker than sanding it off.

Last edited by 68NovaSS; 01-20-2017 at 11:46 AM.
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Old 01-18-2017, 10:43 PM
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One of the top tools in my inventory is an industrial soda blaster. The thing requires me to rent a diesel pull behind air compressor to run it. But I had a 69 cj-5 where both fenders were screwed down to the tub bondo'd under and over the (roof flashing) then bondo'd over that and it was over 1/2 an inch in places.

The soda blaster tore though the bondo removing mil upon mil without causing any more damage.


There are low cost/capacity ones out through eastwood or harbor freight that work good they just take a bit longer to get the job done.
The end of the day though your only removing the junk leaving the good stuff to patch with using a soda blaster. Using a grinder or even wire wheel your going to tear into stuff you do not want or your going to be there all day covered in dust. Break out a soda blaster and shoot the area standing there and then wash the car off and bam your done.

Almost every part of that car can be hit with a soda blaster(the interior not so much). You will find it is a great tool to have in the shop. If you have encountered this type of spot there is no doubt other questionable repairs.

The thing will pay for itself in cleaning areas like the front suspension where you can shoot right over the rubber removing layers of grease and muck before tearing down the suspension. Have rusted rotors? That's a quick and easy fix.
Here is a fun one. Have body mounts bolts(or any other bolt) that are covered in a caked layer of rust on the threads? Before you break out the torch and fry your rubber bushings. Hit the bolts with a soda blaster and watch the threads revel them selfs enough for you to remove the bolts saving the bushings and not heating up the floor.




The tool is one of those things you will find you have reason upon reason to use it once you have it. If you have a air compressor up to the task then spending hours with a wire wheel, sanding, or grinding will seem not as good. I have been there and would not go back unless I was being paid to do so.


Heck I just did 2 truck racks for my boss on Monday and Tuesday for the new trucks they have coming in. It took me and another person 4 hours with a wire wheel to prep each one down to bare metal with many uneven surfaces and layers of paint. The whole time I am thinking If I just had the blaster it would have been an hour each (just me) tops to prep them down to metal. But, I am getting paid to do it there way.

The soda blaster pays dividends once you start finding all the things you can use it on. On a project like yours your going to find that it will come in handy in many situations saving you a great deal of time and pain.
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Old 01-19-2017, 08:24 PM
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How many cars have you painted that you soda blasted?


[color=gray]Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App[/color]
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Old 01-20-2017, 06:21 AM
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Every once in a while I get one stuffed with bondo, I usually get a three point painters putty knife and a hammer and chisel it off, you wont find anything faster and cleaner you'll be popping off 12"x12" chunks very quickly. Any panel like that needs replacing, all you really want to do is see how much needs replacing.
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Old 01-20-2017, 06:40 AM
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propane torch and a brush. a simple pass across the surface will pull the solvent out and turn it to dust. do not heat it just pass the flame across it.

we all know about soda so i'll leave that alone.
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Old 01-20-2017, 08:34 AM
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I'll try the propane torch.

Figured I'd find the edges of the thick mud with an angle grinder. Knocking on the panels tells me it's not all super thick.

Rookie here. Is soda blasting different than sand blasting?
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Old 01-20-2017, 08:53 AM
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remember your not heating it. the flame burns off solvents. it will come off easy.

soda is not for automotive refinishing.
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Old 01-20-2017, 10:16 AM
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I see on soda.

I just wasn't looking forward to endless sanding on the worst spots. Once most of the mud is gone would you recommend sand blasting after I have the body braced? Or should I same that for after the major repairs are done as a run up to paint?
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Old 01-20-2017, 05:32 PM
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Sooo, we have round 1 of rust removal. The good thing is there's metal under there and it's pretty decent. This took about 2hrs. The one pic is a 3/8 drive extension for scale.

I started using the torch and wirewheel technique but ended up getting the mud hot and used a chisel to scrape huge chunks off.
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