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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 01-08-2018, 11:46 AM
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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
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And don't back stroke the stripper, this was a mistake I made for years. When you spread it out you STOP and let it do it's job. When you try to "paint" it on like a frigging wall of you house or something making it perfect you are opening up the surface and letting gasses out. You want to stroke it as little as possible and then leave it do it's job.


Brian

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 01-08-2018, 12:21 PM
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yes, and don't be afraid to use a lot. If it's really thin and you can see the brush stroke it's not enough.
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Old 01-08-2018, 02:59 PM
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[QUOTE=rip-tide;4411674]One thing I'd mention regarding lacquer thinner. The HD ..... and the rest box stores pick your choice. Is garbage mostly water, buy it from the auto paint store, NAPA, 5 gal is not hat expensive and it works.

The lacquer thinner is usually cheaper at the paint store but be sure to ask for wash thinner or they'll grab the good stuff 70.00 a gal. I just bought a gal for 15.00
The tar paper is to lay down on the floor Just in case you drop some. Its cheaper than plastic and heaver so it stays put and don't blow all over the place Plus if some stripper sludge gets on it it wont get super slippery if you step in it 12-14.00 a roll and it handy to have around.

I'm having some trouble finding my USB with all the stripper pictures. I found the wrong one and started watching it and forgot all about stripping cars
I should have known "Kandy Kane" wasn't the name of a car

The 3/4 masking tape is for covering the all the gaps you want three layers or your taking a risk of some stripper getting into the jambs.

The whole deal with stripping is prep so its not messy at all. anyone can brush some stripper on and it'll strip paint. doing it without any mess at all is the whole point. I strip in shorts ,tee shirt, sneakers and no gloves, I need my glasses to see what I'm doing nowdays but always wear safety glasses. You have no idea what pain is until you get stripper in your eye, way worse than lacquer thinner. Back to looking for my USB.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 01-09-2018, 11:29 AM
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Hows it going with the grinding?
Want some options?
Heres a few pics I found of the last one I chem stripped. I did this one in sections because my time was limited and it was a personal car. I stripped the nose, then the rear and the doors. Back in my day I'd strip and prime 1-2 cars a day depending on what kind of paint they were and how much was on there. Do one panel first to see how it goes then do as many as your comfortable with. These days the easiest way for me is to get all the paint off a whole section THEN prime the whole section. You really don't want to to be stripping a panel with fresh primer on the one next to it, your begging for trouble. So I honestly wouldn't suggest stripping one panel and priming it before moving on but if your very careful and have plenty of extra time, by all means try it.

If you want your jambs stripped DONT use chem strip. Use a rol-loc and angle die grinder.with a surface prep or a grinding disc. I cut mine down as they wear and its like putting a new one on every time plus as they get smaller they get into tighter and tighter spots and HF has these on sale all the time for 9.99. I love them.
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Last edited by deadbodyman; 01-09-2018 at 11:53 AM.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 01-09-2018, 11:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
Hows it going with the grinding?
Want some options?
Heres a few pics I found of the last one I chem stripped. I did this one in sections because my time was limited and it was a personal car. I stripped the nose, then the rear and the doors. Back in my day I'd strip and prime 1-2 cars a day depending on what kind of paint they were and how much was on there. Do one panel first to see how it goes then do as many as your comfortable with. These days the easiest way for me is to get all the paint off a whole section THEN prime the whole section. You really don't to to be stripping a panel with fresh primer on the one next to it, your begging for trouble. So I honestly wouldn't suggest stripping one panel and priming it before moving on but if your very careful and have plenty of extra time, by all means try it.

If you want your jambs stripped DONT use chem strip. Use a rol-loc and angle die grinder.with a surface prep or a grinding disc. I cut mine down as they wear and its like putting a new one on every time plus as they get smaller they get into tighter and tighter spots and HF has these on sale all the time for 9.99. I love them.
AWESOME example of stripping paint with a chemical stripper! That is EXACTLY what people need to see! You should start a thread on the subject.

I always recommend a panel or two at the most because we as pros can look at a bare metal care and yawn and get to work. To a newbe working in his garage that bare metal car can be SERIOUSLY overwhelming!

I have seen projects STOP right there, never proceeding. I remember doing a Bug Eye Sprite 25 years ago that came to my shop bare metal coated in rust.

Brian
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 01-09-2018, 12:17 PM
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Thanks Brian, Even when we try to think of everything we always forget something, like running into bondo, or running into a LOT of bondo that always slows things down and happens a lot. It always needs to be removed too and comes off quick with some stripper and a chisel type putty knife you get under it and whack it off, the thicker it is the better.
Also, one of the most popular misconceptions is that stripper has acid in it and needs to be neutralized, it does not on both counts.
all you do is scrape the sludge off and wipe down with (wash) lacquer thinner and a scotch brite then lacquer thinner and your paper towels until its all gone and dry. This is NOT prepping for primer, lacquer thinner dries fast and cleans that sludge right up quick, that's why I use it. water will just make a mess of everything. The wax and grease remover is the next step and is used before sanding and all cleaning from this point on, Never water or soap and water.
I usually start with 80 DA then 180. sometimes I even 320 the metal before primer. I've also been known to tack the metal before my epoxy primer. only because it don't take any time and really makes the shinny epoxy look super slick and dirt free.
The guys at the local shops in town loved it. they would bring me strip and prime jobs then do their own work on top of mine. Nobody wanted to do the stripping because it was so messy, LOL.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 01-09-2018, 02:50 PM
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when i used paint stripper it was kleen strip . clean up with soap and water .
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 01-09-2018, 03:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
Good stuff, and a roll of plastic sheet to put under the area so you scrape it down onto that plastic that can then be gathered up and thrown into the garbage. I assume that is what your tar roll is for, I use thick plastic sheet.

And yes masking tape works just fine, 2" masking tape to go over the seams. And I can't stress enough, maybe you have different thoughts cuz you are a badars but I always scream, do ONE panel at a time unless you are well aware of the process and have done it many times then of course take on what you know you can do. Personally, I know what I can do and I still would do a panel or two at the most. Strip the panel, get it in primer and move onto the next one. Or at the very least if you don't have much humidity where you are to strip a panel at a time and get a few done then prime them.

Brian
Great advice,

Worth adding,,,i apply the Aircraft stripper to ( 1 ) panel and cover it with plastic sheeting to hold moisture Dont let it dry,then apply to 2nd panel and cover it same as before,,then go back to original panel it should be readt to scrape off i use a nylon / plastic spreader the stripper dont melt it.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 01-09-2018, 05:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shine View Post
when i used paint stripper it was kleen strip . clean up with soap and water .
Kleen Strip makes these too. Jasco and aircraft stripper. The only ones I've ever used. Water rinsing has no purpose with these two, just makes a big, slow drying mess and rust (extra work). Quick and ez is what were shooting for.
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Old 01-09-2018, 05:26 PM
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Why are you guys not using or telling him to soda blast?

Chemical stripping has it's place. But there is a butt load of prepwork to do to both the car and shop so that stuff does not go anywhere(like the floor) that you don't want it to.

Also this is January. You can leave that garage door closed start to finish with soda.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 01-09-2018, 05:26 PM
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Great advice,

Worth adding,,,i apply the Aircraft stripper to ( 1 ) panel and cover it with plastic sheeting to hold moisture Dont let it dry,then apply to 2nd panel and cover it same as before,,then go back to original panel it should be readt to scrape off i use a nylon / plastic spreader the stripper dont melt it.
Might work, I never did it like that. but I think if its drying before you can scrape the old paint off one fender you better put the phone down and get to workin guys.
I keep a plastic bondo squeegee in my stripping stuff too but rarely use it .Over the years I've tried many, many things and found the metal drywall putty knifes 4" and 6" work best but theres a few other tools that are nice to have in your stripper box when you need them . especially if you file an edge on them because what you want is for it to get under the paint and you need a sharp blade for that once the stripper is ready most paints come right off, down to the metal or the epoxy primer on the first scrape you use the razor scraper to get what the knife left. a lot of times the epoxy stays on and it'll need a thin coat of stripper to get it off but you use a thin coat and razor scrape it right off don't let it dry it gets hard again.
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Old 01-09-2018, 05:54 PM
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On my 65 Econoline pickup, I chem stripped it. Eleven layers of paint and primer on it. I did cover it with plastic sheeting due to the amount of paint on it. Body seams I did with a wire brush attachment. Door jambs with fiber rolocs.

This was the first time I had to use plastic sheeting and it worked great. Did the wash off with mineral spirits.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 01-09-2018, 05:58 PM
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Quote:
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Why are you guys not using or telling him to soda blast?

Chemical stripping has it's place. But there is a butt load of prepwork to do to both the car and shop so that stuff does not go anywhere(like the floor) that you don't want it to.

Also this is January. You can leave that garage door closed start to finish with soda.
Look it up and see all the problems soda creates. Try blasting inside your garage with the doors closed let us know how that worked out for you. Even with the doors open. I'd like to know more YOUR method. sounds perfect. Were all ears.
What are the advantages, costs, level of experience needed to blast paint off a car with ANY media mostly can a guy do it at home cheaply and quickly. without any experience. Anyone can bring their car to a guy.
So far as I can tell getting paint off a car at home A DIYer only has two options: Grinding and sanding or chem stripping. Ive done both and feel Chem stripping is the best option for me but only because Ive done it so much and know a few tricks that I'm willing to share that'll make it just as ez for a first timer as it is for me.
This is my personal preference so I write about it but others my have their own preferences and should write about them too. we can discuss the pros and cons of each.
Chem stripping costs about 100.00 per car and one man can do car in 4-8 hrs fairly easily at home. With no experience, no damage to metal what so ever and best of all, no mess.
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Old 01-09-2018, 06:01 PM
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Plenty of filler on the front nose, as seems to be the norm on these. Roloc grinding discs took that out. You'd think if they went through the hassle of drilling holes in the dents and creases, they'd have at least tried to use a dent puller. A lot of hours of dent pulling, hammer and dolly work, and heat shrinking to get it right. Luckily on the exterior I only had about a 1.5" x 3" rust hole to cut out and patch. About 4 small areas on the cab floor, and two areas at the front of the box. All metal patched. All drill holes welded.
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Old 01-09-2018, 06:20 PM
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BTW: The going rate for soda blasting in my area is over $80 per hour. None will give you a written or oral estimate.
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