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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 01-09-2018, 06:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AirwolfPJ View Post
BTW: The going rate for soda blasting in my area is over $80 per hour. None will give you a written or oral estimate.



NEVER accept an estimate,,that is all it is

You wont a QUOTE ,and written..in case there is a [roblem ,an estimate will not stand up in court.

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 01-09-2018, 07:42 PM
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OK, I am going to be the odd ball here. In response to the origional question, my favorite method for stripping the outer body of an old abused body is exactly as described.

I use a 7 inch cheap sander/polisher, run it slow at 800-1200 rpm's with a PSA pad and stickem discs. Keep the pad as flat as possible, keep moving and don't heat the paint. It will get gummy if it gets hot.

With a 40-80 grit discs, you can hog a lot of paint off very quickly. I do run the exhaust blower in the basement and that will move most of the dust toward the back wall making clean up easier.

Once the panel is stripped, I go back over it with a D/A and 80 grit paper. That will level any big scratches and prepair the panel for epoxy primer.

Just my way.
John
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 01-09-2018, 08:03 PM
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Well were to start? a huge thanks to all of you for your input.
I am going to look for the stripper this Saturday at lowes and if not a fellow i know in the auto paint sales says he knows of some he can get, i have all of the rest of the equipment to do this.
A couple of questions, how are the fumes from this as having the shop open is not an alternative it is currently -25 deg c i am in Canada LOL.
And how does it work on old undercoating inside the fenders seams to be tar based.
Also looked at media blasting we have a couple of shops out here but it is very pricey and i saw a job the one shop did and messed up some of the rare parts that took a lot to repair after, so that is out.
As for the slow speed sander i will plug away with this on my body itself i will save the doors and fenders for trying the stripper.
A couple of pics if they turn out lol.
First sideways pic is fender i have completed with the 7 inch
Second is rad suport with DA sander and 80 grit
third is a patch panel i an about to put in on left side a piller to door.

And many thanks again and i will figure out the sideways pics soon and keep you all posted.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 01-09-2018, 08:07 PM
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the pics if they come
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2018, 05:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 496CHEVY3100 View Post
NEVER accept an estimate,,that is all it is

You wont a QUOTE ,and written..in case there is a [roblem ,an estimate will not stand up in court.

If you can't get an estimate, you sure aren't going to get a quote either.
I usually ask for a "rough estimate" just to get an idea. If it's in the neighborhood where I want, then I get a written quote. Not my first rodeo.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2018, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by AirwolfPJ View Post
On my 65 Econoline pickup, I chem stripped it. Eleven layers of paint and primer on it. I did cover it with plastic sheeting due to the amount of paint on it. Body seams I did with a wire brush attachment. Door jambs with fiber rolocs.

This was the first time I had to use plastic sheeting and it worked great. Did the wash off with mineral spirits.
THATS a lot of paint. It must have been a beech to strip with the only horizontal surface being a roof. How did the mineral spirts work at cleaning up the sludge? Ive never used it but it seems like it wouldn't evaporate to quickly and its a little oily. My only experience with it was when I made the mistake of buying paint thinner at lowes one time thinking it was lacquer thinner, the second I poured it in my gun I knew it wasn't, reading the ingrediants I saw minerial spirts. I think that's what the sheet says to use too, but I've always used lacquer thinner and a scotch brite. You have to remember they also use this on wood and mineral sprits might be what works best on wood furnture and lacquer thinner might even be bad for wood I don't know. lacquer works perfectly is all I know for sure. plastic covering makes sense especially with a ton of paint to remove. I've just never done it.
Most times what I run into is that cheap econo paint and it turns into watery crap as soon as the stripper hits it and runs right off the panel. after a couple of these I started to tape three layers of paper at the end of the hood and bottom of fenders just in case it tried to run off and make a mess. I just hold up the paper and scoop the mess into the paper tear it off and toss it in the bucket. When you have situation like that the last thing you need is to be running around looking for something to scoop it all up before it gets on plastic bumpers and such.
I want to add something about grinding paint to the metal. instead of using a grinding disc on a hard rubber backing pad, a softer buffing backing pad with an 80 grit sandpaper type works even better on a variable speed buffer. those on/off switches are hard to get any speed control and most times you want it turning slower high speeds warp panels.
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2018, 07:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grizzdog 55 View Post
Well were to start? a huge thanks to all of you for your input.
I am going to look for the stripper this Saturday at lowes and if not a fellow i know in the auto paint sales says he knows of some he can get, i have all of the rest of the equipment to do this.
A couple of questions, how are the fumes from this as having the shop open is not an alternative it is currently -25 deg c i am in Canada LOL.
And how does it work on old undercoating inside the fenders seams to be tar based.
Also looked at media blasting we have a couple of shops out here but it is very pricey and i saw a job the one shop did and messed up some of the rare parts that took a lot to repair after, so that is out.
As for the slow speed sander i will plug away with this on my body itself i will save the doors and fenders for trying the stripper.
A couple of pics if they turn out lol.
First sideways pic is fender i have completed with the 7 inch
Second is rad suport with DA sander and 80 grit
third is a patch panel i an about to put in on left side a piller to door.

And many thanks again and i will figure out the sideways pics soon and keep you all posted.
It looking good. the fumes can be bad if your right over it wear a mask circulate the air with a small box fan set low you don't want a wind to dry the stripper out just some air movement.
For removing old under coating I like to warm it up with a small propane torch and a diffuser tip then it scrapes right off in sheets sometimes it comes off cold without heat. I even welded a putty knife to an old air chisel, used at very low setting it'll pop off the real stubborned stuff

Last edited by deadbodyman; 01-10-2018 at 07:42 AM.
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2018, 08:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
THATS a lot of paint. It must have been a beech to strip with the only horizontal surface being a roof. How did the mineral spirts work at cleaning up the sludge? Ive never used it but it seems like it wouldn't evaporate to quickly and its a little oily. My only experience with it was when I made the mistake of buying paint thinner at lowes one time thinking it was lacquer thinner, the second I poured it in my gun I knew it wasn't, reading the ingrediants I saw minerial spirts. I think that's what the sheet says to use too, but I've always used lacquer thinner and a scotch brite. You have to remember they also use this on wood and mineral sprits might be what works best on wood furnture and lacquer thinner might even be bad for wood I don't know. lacquer works perfectly is all I know for sure. plastic covering makes sense especially with a ton of paint to remove. I've just never done it.
Most times what I run into is that cheap econo paint and it turns into watery crap as soon as the stripper hits it and runs right off the panel. after a couple of these I started to tape three layers of paper at the end of the hood and bottom of fenders just in case it tried to run off and make a mess. I just hold up the paper and scoop the mess into the paper tear it off and toss it in the bucket. When you have situation like that the last thing you need is to be running around looking for something to scoop it all up before it gets on plastic bumpers and such.
I want to add something about grinding paint to the metal. instead of using a grinding disc on a hard rubber backing pad, a softer buffing backing pad with an 80 grit sandpaper type works even better on a variable speed buffer. those on/off switches are hard to get any speed control and most times you want it turning slower high speeds warp panels.
Actually, it worked quite well. I used it mainly for a "wash" to get off the general crap, (lol), and then hit it with a DA. After that, it was a wipe down with lacquer thinner.

Yeah, a lot of vertical surfaces, and I knew that there was a ton of paint on there. I would brush on the remover and cover it in sections, until I had the side done and then the rest the same way. Probably removed about 80% of the paint that way without a lot of scraping effort. The stubborn areas took a little more time. All in all, it wasn't as much labor intensive as it was time intensive.

Like you, and having owned a body shop, I just find it a lot easier to chem strip. Not as much stuff in the air, and it all drops down to the covered floor for easy clean up.

Actually, the worst was removing the undercoating. Up to 1.5 inches thick in parts. Hammer, chisel, air chisel, couple needle scalers.....you get the idea. That was a mess. Probably took 3X as long as stripping the body.

Glad you guys are sharing your experiences and techniques.
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2018, 09:19 AM
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i switched to media blasting long ago . chemstrip can cause serious paint problems. especially on glass . wash thinners can be worse as they are mostly recycled solvents and acids . if a vette has been washed with thinner i wont touch it. the point is to float and remove the contaminate not melt it into the surface.
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2018, 09:57 AM
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I use these on a 4 1/2" angle grinder:

Pearl 4.5" x 7/8" Stripping Disc

If you are careful and keep them flat and don't apply too much pressure, you can strip an entire car with about 10 of them. Goes pretty fast. Follow up with a d/a and 80 grit for a final surface prep before primer.
Beats chemicals and blasting although you can't reach nooks and crannies with the discs. So, you have to use another method for those areas.

Don't waste your time with HF angle grinders. They don't last. This is what I've been using:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauke...0-33/202101584

Just stripped this car that way. Photos are before the d/a prep and blasting the nooks and crannies.






Last edited by roger1; 01-10-2018 at 10:09 AM.
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Old 01-10-2018, 03:59 PM
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roverboy77

Get a good quality respirator with particulate filters [3-M]. not one of those cheap surgeons masks. We see too dang many old HotRod Guys with oxygen bottles.
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2018, 05:24 PM
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Get a good quality respirator with particulate filters [3-M]. not one of those cheap surgeons masks. We see too dang many old HotRod Guys with oxygen bottles.
I have a good selection of north filters for that thanks for the heads up.
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2018, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
It looking good. the fumes can be bad if your right over it wear a mask circulate the air with a small box fan set low you don't want a wind to dry the stripper out just some air movement.
For removing old under coating I like to warm it up with a small propane torch and a diffuser tip then it scrapes right off in sheets sometimes it comes off cold without heat. I even welded a putty knife to an old air chisel, used at very low setting it'll pop off the real stubborned stuff
Thanks i will give it a whirl, Dave
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 01-11-2018, 07:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roger1 View Post
I use these on a 4 1/2" angle grinder:

Pearl 4.5" x 7/8" Stripping Disc

If you are careful and keep them flat and don't apply too much pressure, you can strip an entire car with about 10 of them. Goes pretty fast. Follow up with a d/a and 80 grit for a final surface prep before primer.
Beats chemicals and blasting although you can't reach nooks and crannies with the discs. So, you have to use another method for those areas.

Don't waste your time with HF angle grinders. They don't last. This is what I've been using:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauke...0-33/202101584

Just stripped this car that way. Photos are before the d/a prep and blasting the nooks and crannies.





I forgot about those Roger, I really liked the way they worked but they didn't hold up for crap and were very expensive back about 15-20yrs ago when they first came out, sounds like they improved them and brought the cost down. I'd try them again. How long did that job take to do, start to finish. would the little rol-loc stripers work for the details instead of blasting? Is it primed or painted yet?
You ever notice how hard it is to prime the car and cover up all that work you did. Looks good.

Heres the trick to getting the HF die grinders to last for years like mine. install an in-line regulator at the end of your hose to be able to control the speed of ALL your air tools. I see guys running the air tools at full blast (150 lbs) all the time and it makes me cringe. My die grinders have held up for years and its the best deal HF has IMO.
The 4/12"grinder is a great must have tool at the shop I have three of them one for grinding welds, cutting sheetmetal and one for wire wheeling. Its very handy (this one don't even have a variable speed control for stripping) but It could never take the place of die grinders or the angle die grinders which I use pretty much every day.

Last edited by deadbodyman; 01-11-2018 at 07:17 AM.
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 01-11-2018, 07:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roger1 View Post
I use these on a 4 1/2" angle grinder:

Pearl 4.5" x 7/8" Stripping Disc

If you are careful and keep them flat and don't apply too much pressure, you can strip an entire car with about 10 of them. Goes pretty fast. Follow up with a d/a and 80 grit for a final surface prep before primer.
Beats chemicals and blasting although you can't reach nooks and crannies with the discs. So, you have to use another method for those areas.

Don't waste your time with HF angle grinders. They don't last. This is what I've been using:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauke...0-33/202101584

Just stripped this car that way. Photos are before the d/a prep and blasting the nooks and crannies.





those are very good for jambs but an angle grinder has a blazing fast speed. If you warp it you might not notice til after you re sand it a little smoother. I would not recommend this on exterior surfaces like a hood or roof. On a 3" grinder maybe but not on an angle grinder. I bet that works great in the bed though.
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