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-   -   removing paint with a variable 7 inch polisher/ sander (https://www.hotrodders.com/forum/removing-paint-variable-7-inch-polisher-sander-499530.html)

Grizzdog 55 01-06-2018 07:45 PM

removing paint with a variable 7 inch polisher/ sander
 
hi i am getting to paint removal to bare metal on my 37 chevy using a variable speed polisher/ sander and i am concerned that i do not do damage to the fenders ect. i have tried with 80 grit at 900 rpm works good, is there any technique i should be following and or ??

thanks Dave

OneMoreTime 01-06-2018 08:32 PM

If it works it works.. Carry on..

Sam

rdscotty 01-06-2018 11:13 PM

That should work well. Be careful around body lines. On the edge of panels, make sure the disc is spinning away from the edge and not toward the edge.

Bamamav 01-06-2018 11:16 PM

Just keep it moving, don't sit in one area too long, it will build up heat and possibly warp the metal. Several light passes instead of one heavy one.

You might also try one of those wheels that look like a porous rock. They will take paint off quick without much effort.

69 widetrack 01-06-2018 11:38 PM

I assume your polisher, sander us electric, do you have a compressor? If you do, an orbital sander might give you a bit more control. They aren't expensive if you purchase a DA (duel action) from a place like harbor freight and set it on the spin mode, not the oscillating mode... Might be $20 and if need be are disposable when the job is done (it's not much money, you'll spend more in sandpaper).

Control is important for heat build up, even how long your sand paper lasts.

To avoid heat, always keep your sandpaper sharp, if you kill the paper and keep on going you are cutting less and more importantly building up heat and chancing warping panels.

Strip one panel at a time, it's a tedious job but jumping around somehow always seems to take longer.

Hope this helps

Grizzdog 55 01-07-2018 08:58 AM

Thanks for the info guys i was worried i was going at it wrong as it whips the paint off fast.

69 Widetrack my 7 inch is electric, i also have duel action air sander and it seems better on the smaller areas and to clean up the odd spots from the 7 inch

Thanks again

deadbodyman 01-07-2018 06:05 PM

Been there done that mess. Chem stripping is way cleaner, easier and faster when you know a few tips also no damage to worry about. I used to strip cars every day for about a year and tried just about every way to do it including media blasting. If grinding seems like too much work I can explain how to chem strip like a pro, 4-8 hrs complete.

Grizzdog 55 01-07-2018 07:31 PM

Dead bodyman
I would like to know more about the chem stripping

Thanks Dave

MARTINSR 01-07-2018 09:18 PM

I DO NOT recommend using a "grinder" (note the name of the tool) as it can cause some real damage if you aren't VERY good at it. One of the things it can cause is warpage because it heats so much from friction, the other has been mentioned cutting edges and body lines is a VERY real possibility.

If you haven't got a compressor that you can use a orbital sander like a good old DA or much better for stripping is an 8 inch orbital like this (personally the ND900 is worth the money) https://www.maxtool.com/ingersoll-ra...CABEgKAoPD_BwE

But I am with DBM I would chemically strip one panel at a time then sand that panel down with an orbital sander and get some epoxy primer on it. After washing it throughly of course.

Brian

tech69 01-07-2018 11:10 PM

I can explain a little about chem strip. It's usually better with parts off the car but you do each part at a time. Use Use aluminum tape( or duct tape)1/8" from all edges. If I do a hood the tape just hangs off the edge and sometimes under the aluminum tape is normal tape wrapped around the edge of the hood into the jamb so the stripper doesn't get into the jambs. You can sand that 1/8" edge of paint off afterwards but scuff up your paint so the stripper bites into the paint better, and do that first. After that and aluminum taping your edges brush on your AIRPLANE PAINT STRIPPER (do not use anything else) in one direction and let it sit, and don't be afraid to use lots of it. Do not let it dry. You should see the paint wrinkle up.Make sure when you do this you have on solvent safe thick rubber gloves, a charcoal mask, and eye protection. Don't touch anything on your body. Once it's set up for a about 10-15 minutes get a bondo spreader and scrape it off into a box. If it's hard to scrape off you waited too long. If there's any left you can either re apply or sand it off after you drench the panel with water to neutralize the acid. Once dry sand with 80 then 180 to give it a nice tooth for primer. Throw the gloves and brush into the box and clean the can of stripper and if you got it all contained, stripped it off nicely, and don't feel any body parts feeling cold you did a great job!

tech69 01-07-2018 11:23 PM

those fenders are very roundish. You should be alright with stripping them with a buffer. I would not have any concern about warpage on them as long as you don't use high rpms, but don't sit on sharp edges or body lines or any spot for that matter, but especially body lines. If you want to sand those keep it moving faster than usual with a slower rpm. It's the hood you should worry about warpage and so you should sand that with a da or chemical stripper. Make sure the edge rolls off edges or you will quickly learn the hard way and the buffer will buck.

deadbodyman 01-08-2018 06:00 AM

As with all things auto body "prep is everything" here's a list of what you'll need it'll make things easier right from the start. This is what I use.

1) a roll of black roofing tar paper (Lowes)
2) a roll of white auto body masking paper (NEVER news paper)
3) 4-5 rolls of 3/4" and 1 roll of 1 1/2"auto body tape (the yellow 3-m works)
4) 6", 4" putty knifes (Lowes)
5) razor scraper and box of blades (best quality not china)
6) 1 gallon of lacquer thinner (not paint thinner/ mineral sprits)
7) 5-pac or red scuff pads
8) big box of paper towels (Lowes)
9) 1 gallon of wax and grease remover
10) 1 gallon of Jasco paint stripper or air craft stripper I'd prefer jasco but aircraft works fine too. (lowes is cheapest) @ 50.00 a gal.

I'll round up some pics and get back to you with the directions and tips.
Lowes has some stuff that cheaper and works as well or better than the auto body supply stores so I wrote Lowes for the stuff I get there.

rip-tide 01-08-2018 07:06 AM

One thing I'd mention regarding lacquer thinner. The HD ..... and the rest box stores pick your choice. Is garbage mostly water, buy it from the auto paint store, NAPA, 5 gal is not hat expensive and it works.

I use it as a cleaner also, have it on hand all the time.

Just saying building the wife''s 32 truck, there were areas that the original paint was flat and faded, no powder, flaking or chock.

Figuring it lasted 100 years, so the bonding was good. Sanded and blended it doing body work. Primed over it just like any the other prep work.

The point being I do not believe one needs to strip all paint to bare metal to have a good long lasting finished paint job..... the qualifier being the amount of paint on the surface, meaning number of coats or times the body was painted.



Greg

MARTINSR 01-08-2018 08:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by deadbodyman (Post 4411666)
As with all things auto body "prep is everything" here's a list of what you'll need it'll make things easier right from the start. This is what I use.

1) a roll of black roofing tar paper (Lowes)
2) a roll of white auto body masking paper (NEVER news paper)
3) 4-5 rolls of 3/4" and 1 roll of 1 1/2"auto body tape (the yellow 3-m works)
4) 6", 4" putty knifes (Lowes)
5) razor scraper and box of blades (best quality not china)
6) 1 gallon of lacquer thinner (not paint thinner/ mineral sprits)
7) 5-pac or red scuff pads
8) big box of paper towels (Lowes)
9) 1 gallon of wax and grease remover
10) 1 gallon of Jasco paint stripper or air craft stripper I'd prefer jasco but aircraft works fine too. (lowes is cheapest) @ 50.00 a gal.

I'll round up some pics and get back to you with the directions and tips.
Lowes has some stuff that cheaper and works as well or better than the auto body supply stores so I wrote Lowes for the stuff I get there.


Good stuff, and a roll of plastic sheet to put under the area so you scrape it down onto that plastic that can then be gathered up and thrown into the garbage. I assume that is what your tar roll is for, I use thick plastic sheet.

And yes masking tape works just fine, 2" masking tape to go over the seams. And I can't stress enough, maybe you have different thoughts cuz you are a badars but I always scream, do ONE panel at a time unless you are well aware of the process and have done it many times then of course take on what you know you can do. Personally, I know what I can do and I still would do a panel or two at the most. Strip the panel, get it in primer and move onto the next one. Or at the very least if you don't have much humidity where you are to strip a panel at a time and get a few done then prime them.

Brian

tech69 01-08-2018 11:22 AM

no more than two at a time for sure. If it dries on your panel you have created more work.

As mentioned, if it's working why stop now? I'd just be concerned with that buffer on a hood and roof. Carry on and you can turn it up a little on those fenders. I'd hit that hood and roof with an aggressive DA as I don't like using stripper. If I were to chemically strip anything it would be the hood and I'd remove it, but that's just me.


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