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Old 06-19-2018, 06:07 PM
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Repairing paint wrinkles

I have a somewhat related question. I was trying to do a little blend inside a door jamb. After sanding the existing clear coat, I sprayed basecoat and it wrinkled, much like old school lacquer over pre-acrylic enamels. What did I do wrong? I had changed color on the bottom of my pickup a little over a month ago and just didn't like the way the bottom edge of the door jamb looked. Now I have wrinkles.

A paint supply shop said I needed to primer, but at some point where I am trying to blend color and clear, color has to go over prior clear coat. So, any ideas what I'm doing wrong?

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Old 06-19-2018, 07:26 PM
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Sounds to me like there are still solvents coming out.. Patience is key.. Sand the area and if you expose bare metal so be it.. Prime the area and let it set until you are sure all the solvents are out.. Then do a light dusting of base coat.. may take 2-3 passes to get the area covered.. light dusting coats are vital and letting the solvents come out between coats.. Same on the clear coat with dusting the clear on until you have a final..

Critical to not apply too much material on each pass..

Sam
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Old 06-19-2018, 09:09 PM
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Wrinkles will usually show back through more base and clear unless you sand them all the way out. Some clears have some touchy recoat windows if you are trying to base over fresh clears or because you have broken through back into base. Might be helpful to know what branded materials. Sometimes the dusting method will get you through it but if a metallic color, it can make the base very grainy in appearance or shift the color because the metallic is standing up. I have used some waterborne products in the past to get through some touchy solvent based paint problems. Maybe a couple coats of H2O clear base or intercoat clear and dust some color over it and ease on a little clear. Could always shoot some test panels so as not to make the problem on the vehicle bigger and bigger.

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Old 06-19-2018, 09:15 PM
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Many of us put activator in our base coat even if not required. Usually about an ounce for a quart of ready to spray base. It will make your base less sensitive if you break through or have go back over it later.

John
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Old 06-20-2018, 08:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OneMoreTime View Post
Sounds to me like there are still solvents coming out.. Patience is key.. Sand the area and if you expose bare metal so be it.. Prime the area and let it set until you are sure all the solvents are out.. Then do a light dusting of base coat.. may take 2-3 passes to get the area covered.. light dusting coats are vital and letting the solvents come out between coats.. Same on the clear coat with dusting the clear on until you have a final..

Critical to not apply too much material on each pass..

Sam
EXACTLY!

"Wrinkling" is caused by solvents getting UNDER the substrate. It is likely not a 2k product that you are painting over, and the solvents from your paint are going through or sliding under at a sanded thin point or feather edge point to wrinkle it up.

As Sam said, patience is the key! Of course removing the substrate is the "best" way to do fix the problem. But if you can't do that then applying your paint lighter, using a faster flashing reducer, spraying when the substrate is warmer, spraying dryer, leaving more flash time between coats, all of these things are going to lessen the amount of solvents that can get under the substrate.

Spraying a dry coat is the "bestest" way to solve the problem.

I have literally "dusted" a product on so friggin dry it was almost totally flashed off in seconds after the pass with the gun, and even that left to flash more for 10-15 minutes then dusted again taking many "coats" like this, 10-15 of them because it was sprayed so thin to build up that protection over the weak substrate before a wetter coat could be applied to get it good for clear or paint to be applied.

Brian
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Old 06-20-2018, 11:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marv_e56s View Post
I have a somewhat related question. I was trying to do a little blend inside a door jamb. After sanding the existing clear coat, I sprayed basecoat and it wrinkled, much like old school lacquer over pre-acrylic enamels. What did I do wrong? I had changed color on the bottom of my pickup a little over a month ago and just didn't like the way the bottom edge of the door jamb looked. Now I have wrinkles.

A paint supply shop said I needed to primer, but at some point where I am trying to blend color and clear, color has to go over prior clear coat. So, any ideas what I'm doing wrong?
Reason the paint store said you need to prime is because theres normally less solvent in primer than in base color. So it can be more forgiving on a surface that is prone to swelling and wrinkling or lifting when wetted with solvent. The feathered edges are the most vulnerable and out where its just color over clear, the clear is unbroken. The popular solution in my experience has been to spray very light coats of primer mixed as a sealer until featheredges are isolated and any swollen edges can be sanded a little. But you'll have to spray very carefully once you attempt to apply color again.
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Old 06-23-2018, 07:30 PM
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Sand out the wrinkles, then dry spray, I mean, freakin' d-r-y dry spray numerous coats of color, with plenty of flash time between coats. Now, is not the time to get in a hurry, it will take up to 3 hours, or more to get this done, but you will be able to avoid primer. The plan here is to "seal" it with dry sprayed color. Then apply a couple "normal"/ish coats of color to lay it out, and be ready for clear. Then spray the clear very carefully. and very lightly. You want to "seal" the color coat with the first couple or three coats of dry clear, before you wet it up for a shine. It will take more coats, because you're coating lighter than normal, same amount of paint though.
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Old 07-14-2018, 03:47 PM
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Thanks for the replies. It worked!
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