Replace Half Door Skin - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans Advertise
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 01-27-2010, 12:51 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: NZ
Posts: 13
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Replace Half Door Skin

Have read everything I could find about replacing a skin, but all seem to use a new part and I need to make my own. This might of course be my worst idea ever, the problem of starting the "fold over" in the right place to maintain the proper edge immediately presents itself.
The intention is to eliminate a previous repair where there is a deep layer of bondo across the door to hide an overlapping join. The repair is in the lower third of the door. The lower corners have rust holes, so replacing the lower half of the skin looks, to me, to be the answer. Trying to fold the edges is what is scaring me.
Would someone be kind enough to offer some guidance?
Thankyou so much, John.

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 01-27-2010, 01:58 PM
MARTINSR's Avatar
Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Boise, Idaho
Age: 60
Posts: 16,159
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 6,330
Thanked 6,892 Times in 4,389 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 28chev
Have read everything I could find about replacing a skin, but all seem to use a new part and I need to make my own. This might of course be my worst idea ever, the problem of starting the "fold over" in the right place to maintain the proper edge immediately presents itself.
The intention is to eliminate a previous repair where there is a deep layer of bondo across the door to hide an overlapping join. The repair is in the lower third of the door. The lower corners have rust holes, so replacing the lower half of the skin looks, to me, to be the answer. Trying to fold the edges is what is scaring me.
Would someone be kind enough to offer some guidance?
Thankyou so much, John.
What is it for? You may be able to have one made if you can't buy a new one. Splicing a skin in the middle is pretty tough, if you go up to a body line (say it is on a 1928 Chevy like your name implies, it can work out pretty well.

It can be made from scratch, simply make a pattern and fold using a brake, or folding it over a piece of angle iron clamped to a bench.

I have made stuff like that from scratch and simply going by your common sense you can get an awful lot done.

Brian
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 01-27-2010, 09:38 PM
gow589's Avatar
the Clever Turn Signal
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Indiana
Posts: 396
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 8 Times in 8 Posts
Door Work

This is what I did. Something like this?:

http://www.rc-tech.net/pantera1/door/door.htm

http://www.rc-tech.net/pantera1/index.htm
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 01-27-2010, 09:52 PM
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: it can roll now
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Anchorage AK
Age: 34
Posts: 95
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
what are you working on? i just did door skin where i went most the way up on a 64 chev door. i have a bunch of pics, kinda step by step if you would like. like stated above if you can get to a body line it would help and ad strength and suport.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 01-27-2010, 10:57 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: NZ
Posts: 13
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thankyou for the three replies, I appreciate your taking the time to share your experiences.
Yes, there is a body line which also has a moulding strip so that will help with the join in the door of our old Peugeot Wagon.
The Pantera repair is what I would like to do, was unsure whether the door frame would have enough strength, even well supported, to begin the bend. Will give it a try.
Any photos of similar repairs would be of great interest to me.
John
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 01-28-2010, 12:40 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Seattle
Posts: 312
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 14 Times in 11 Posts
28chev,

older doors without the side impact beam tend to warp when you cut off the skin so it is easier to fit everything in place with the door mounted so you can make adjustments to match the body.

Make a pattern to match what is there then bend the contour and turn the edge 90* on the bench with a hammer and dolly a little at a time. Do the entire bottom 15* then go over to 30*, then 45*, ect. Same with the edges. Trying to turn it 90* straight away is where the problems start.

You can fit the skin and bond it on with 3M 8115, not cheap but very easy to use well, GREAT stuff. Once bonded, just fold the edge over with the hammer and dolly, a little at a time. YES, you can bond the center seam also, just have at least 1/2" overlap, 3/4" preferred.

3M 8115 bonding adhesive
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 01-28-2010, 02:58 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: NZ
Posts: 13
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks Bodyman I am starting to build up a pretty good picture.
You are so right, the final fit is the most important, I did not realise that the door might go out of shape.
John
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 01-28-2010, 06:58 AM
deadbodyman's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Stripping paint
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: augusta,ga.
Age: 59
Posts: 7,950
Wiki Edits: 11

Thanks: 104
Thanked 1,463 Times in 1,115 Posts
You can fold metal over a tables edge by placing a 2x4 over the metal and clamping it down,then fold the edge down,(a homemade brake)but you wont get a nice sharp bend...What I would do (without a brake) is go to your local sheetmetal shop and have them fold some metal FOR you ,that'll give you a nice straight ,sharp bottom edge ..When making your measurements dont forget to add an extra couple inches in hight plus the lips on the sides.I use drill screws to hold everything in place while marking.you should be able to get out for under 10.00 ask for "paint grip" coated metal if they have it, it'll keep it from rusting while your working on it. Welding the seam without warping is tricky but I've found some very easy ,common sense ways to do that....Also,get a flanger at HF to step the seam(40.00 ,"very important") it'll also add strength for welding....Installation is is a whole other story and would take time to explain the whole process but this will get you started.Have the metal shop bend you up some (at least two) you might screw one or two up,that way your starting out with good quality stuff...For me,this is THE most enjoyable work there is, in the whole resto process.So enjoy....
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 01-28-2010, 07:38 AM
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: General Motors transmissions
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: near Yellowstone park
Posts: 5,476
Wiki Edits: 27

Thanks: 60
Thanked 645 Times in 542 Posts
Door skin

I still have to do the doors on my 29 nash roadster but I made a deck lid from scratch. I used the brake to do a slight bend at the edges to have a good straight line to follow with the hammer and dolly for the sides that have a shape similar to a model A, the top and bottom I made 90 degree bends then shrunk the flange to get the top and bottom slight curve.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 01-28-2010, 07:43 AM
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: General Motors transmissions
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: near Yellowstone park
Posts: 5,476
Wiki Edits: 27

Thanks: 60
Thanked 645 Times in 542 Posts
chevy wood

most old chevies I have seen are a wood sub structure, more carpentry work usually to get the skin to fit. My son Is planning to replace all the wood with steel tubing on his 34 chevy pickup .
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 01-28-2010, 07:46 AM
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: General Motors transmissions
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: near Yellowstone park
Posts: 5,476
Wiki Edits: 27

Thanks: 60
Thanked 645 Times in 542 Posts
jeff lilly resto

Jeff lilly restorations has a lot of pictures on restorations he has done on his site
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 01-28-2010, 08:07 AM
deadbodyman's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Stripping paint
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: augusta,ga.
Age: 59
Posts: 7,950
Wiki Edits: 11

Thanks: 104
Thanked 1,463 Times in 1,115 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by timothale
I still have to do the doors on my 29 nash roadster but I made a deck lid from scratch. I used the brake to do a slight bend at the edges to have a good straight line to follow with the hammer and dolly for the sides that have a shape similar to a model A, the top and bottom I made 90 degree bends then shrunk the flange to get the top and bottom slight curve.
Now theres a metal man. Metal shaping is a fasinating world...isnt it? Also try www.metalmeet.com you cant help but learn something.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 01-28-2010, 05:18 PM
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 1
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Very nice job.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 01-28-2010, 05:41 PM
deadbodyman's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Stripping paint
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: augusta,ga.
Age: 59
Posts: 7,950
Wiki Edits: 11

Thanks: 104
Thanked 1,463 Times in 1,115 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by klipsch21
Very nice job.
hey look a newbie.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #15 (permalink)  
Old 01-29-2010, 01:01 PM
sparkydog's Avatar
Spa Mercenary
 

Last journal entry: Updates July 2012
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Fallbrook, CA
Posts: 98
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by gow589
Newbie question: what is the advantage or purpose of riveting the lap joint seam before welding it? What I mean is does it have to be rivets or can I just clamp if I can rig them into the joint? Would screws or spot welds be OK instead? Thanks very much for helping me to understand.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:
Insurance
Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Radiator - Repair or Replace??? indy_85stariones General Rodding Tech 6 05-05-2010 11:16 PM
31 Ford - Replace felt window channels earlf31 Body - Exterior 3 02-24-2009 05:51 PM
Do I need to replace the crank arms classicgarage Engine 2 06-16-2008 11:42 PM
Need to replace all my stolen tools Blackdog Garage - Tools 20 12-07-2007 02:38 PM
replace a 5 speed with a 6 speed? dtprula Transmission - Rearend 3 12-17-2004 05:32 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:57 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.