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  #136 (permalink)  
Old 04-18-2017, 05:52 PM
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To replace or not to replace: roof skin on 77 Trans an

Because. I mentioned the thickness of my springs. Too big. You're slappers are like .125" thick. These springs are over 1/4"!!!!

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  #137 (permalink)  
Old 04-18-2017, 06:28 PM
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Trying to help you here.
You won't get there by using the wrong equipment.

Good luck with it.
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  #138 (permalink)  
Old 04-18-2017, 06:37 PM
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To replace or not to replace: roof skin on 77 Trans an

I know but it's not making sense to me. You're telling me to make a spoon like you out of a leaf spring, but yours is like 1/8" thick. Mine is way thicker than that. I made one and it's way to heavy to effectively slap dents. Did you mean for me to mill these springs down in thickness? I don't have a mill.

I am gonna try bending a little .125" x 2" x 4-6" piece of steel around a convex shape. Maybe I'll bend it around a pipe and then bend the end up and grind out any wrinkles that come out from the duel bend. I'll pull the handle off the slapper I pictured on Sunday.


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  #139 (permalink)  
Old 04-19-2017, 04:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schroeder View Post
I know but it's not making sense to me. You're telling me to make a spoon like you out of a leaf spring, but yours is like 1/8" thick. Mine is way thicker than that. I made one and it's way to heavy to effectively slap dents. Did you mean for me to mill these springs down in thickness? I don't have a mill.

I am gonna try bending a little .125" x 2" x 4-6" piece of steel around a convex shape. Maybe I'll bend it around a pipe and then bend the end up and grind out any wrinkles that come out from the duel bend. I'll pull the handle off the slapper I pictured on Sunday.


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Mine may appear thin at the edges because I ground a convex shape into it.

You cannot use regular steel. Don't waste your time.

Or, go to the junk yard and see if you can find a smaller spring.

You cannot mill spring steel.
Just use you hand angle grinder.

Toss that handle also. Go get yourself a piece of 3/4" dia tube.

Some guys use handles made from old golf clubs and reuse the rubber grip. Very slick.

If you want it lighter, make it narrower and use a longer handle.

No one said making tools would be easy or fast.

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  #140 (permalink)  
Old 04-19-2017, 05:29 PM
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Hcompton, I took your advice, busted out my 60g and 120 flap wheels and knocked more off the edges on my slapper. I polished up the contact side too. I'll still have to change the handle. It is too heavy. What a work out.





I took a piece of 20g AKDQ CR steel and took it through my English wheel (wow its going to be hard using that to make my fender flares). I made some passes on the edges to make some stretched bends and then I made a bulge in the center. Then I took some of my body hammers and beat the bulge in the distort the metal. Next I used my slapper and my heal dolly and comma dolly to reshape the bulge. I got it back to where the English wheel had it.
my real goal was to bring the English wheel stretched bulge out too. Since it was so big I think I needed a larger dolly ro span the whole dent/bulge.

This brings me to my question. When is the slapping method applicable and useful. From the little bit I have tried it fooling around the this test panel it does seem useful when you have an inward bulge. You then need a dolly that spans the whole dent so it can be in contact with the ridge around the bulge. You slap and your slapper must hit both side of the dent's ridge. When you start hearing the TING of metal on metal contact, indicating that your slapping against the dolly, you know that the dent has popped out somewhat if not completely. Conversely, the method could be used on a bulge that pops outward, by simply looking at the panel from the other side (a natter of perspective you could say).

Another question I have is does this really flatten panels? I see I can bring a dent out, but it seems like I'm stretching metal somewhere - maybe the ridge arouns the dent? This stretched metal is going somewhere, so doesn't that mean that in the end you have a slight bubble outward from stretching the metal??

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  #141 (permalink)  
Old 04-20-2017, 04:00 AM
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The dolly pushing up must be kept moving around as you slap because the dolly will not be the same shape as a panel ever.

Once you've rearranged the metal by bringing it up with slapper and dolly, it's time to shrink the bubble down.
In the case of your sample piece, the bubble was created with the ewheel. Dents/creases in panels do the same thing. They always leave an upward (or downward) bubble that needs shrinking.

It's time for the shrinking disc.
The disc is not expected to get that huge bubble that you created all the way down, but it will bring some of it down.

It's usually enough to shrink down damage from creases in the metal though and that's real world damage that you will use it on.
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  #142 (permalink)  
Old 04-20-2017, 04:08 AM
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To replace or not to replace: roof skin on 77 Trans an

Ok. That makes great sense. I'll try it on test panel when it arrives on Friday!! So I just keep reorienting the dolly, got it.


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  #143 (permalink)  
Old 04-20-2017, 01:01 PM
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Just a reminder.
You cannot force any steel down by ringing steel on steel.
It will stretch and bubble up more.

For off dolly slapping, light blows with pressure on the dolly upwards continually moving it around.

A trick to finding exactly where the crown of the dolly is underneath the panel is to give it light slaps and to here a ringing sound. It won't be hard enough to stretch but the sound will tell you if it's in the right spot.
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Old 04-20-2017, 06:44 PM
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So pugsy, all my slapping to get stuff close to where it needs to be should be done off dolly (I know we just went over this a week ago)- it seems unnatural though, so I'll have to work on it. I tried a little shrinking with the disc that just came. Seems like it's really roughing my test panel up. Am I doing something wrong?





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  #145 (permalink)  
Old 04-21-2017, 04:34 AM
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Nothing really wrong, however, a panel will be a lot smoother than that before you pull out the disc.

Put the panel thru your ewheel to get a nice smooth curve on it.

Then, when you use the disc, you can feel the results as your smooth panel will get a slight dip in it.

With that lumpy panel, it's gonna dig in a lot more because of your sharp creases.

Keep your disc clean as it pick up metal from use.

But generally, it makes marks. Look at my pics and you will see spots with that same color.
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  #146 (permalink)  
Old 04-21-2017, 04:46 AM
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Pugsy can you try reposting that? I can't see that pic and forgot to say something before. Anyone else not able to see the pic or just me??


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  #147 (permalink)  
Old 04-21-2017, 09:23 AM
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Perhaps he meant pics he previously posted in this thread.

I have used my slappers both properly and improperly by the description of technique given. Call me a hack, I won't say it ain't so. Most often I use a light duty one as a hammer, off or near a dolly. Sometimes I lay it on the metal unsupported and strike the spoon with a hammer for more accuracy. Heck, I used one of my light spoons during a unibody pull somehow and flattened out the curve inadvertently in doing so. Since, it has proven useful to have one of them a little less curved than the other.

Earlier I was asking if you guys had tried a shrinking tip on a regular stud gun. Still curious about that. It seemed to be a big help for me during the early years of my dent fixing.
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Old 04-21-2017, 09:26 AM
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I have not. I don't know if I want big money in that either for one project. Could I use the harbor freight puller? I guess I planned on just doing the MIG method if I was gonna add any heat similar to that.


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  #149 (permalink)  
Old 04-21-2017, 09:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
Perhaps he meant pics he previously posted in this thread.
Thanks.
Yes. post 112 and 113
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  #150 (permalink)  
Old 04-21-2017, 09:49 AM
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Right on, Pugsy.

I bought the HF stud gun kit in 2010. It was crap, not very effective but only a hundred bucks. I'd give it to you if you were nearby. A decent stud gun is more like $250 and most won't come with a shrinking tip but its only about ten bucks more. Easy to find demonstration vids about that on the web, and you may find them interesting. Of course I'm not suggesting that you go buy a brand new one for one stretched panel. It may not be a technique that finds favor among enthusiastic metal shapers but it can be a lifesaver during a person's learning curve. So did you try shrinking with a small weld on your practice piece?
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