To replace or not to replace: roof skin on 77 Trans an - Page 2 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 03-19-2017, 09:52 AM
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I reckon an exercise in futility is a learning experience none the less. Nice work cutting it apart cleanly.

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Old 03-19-2017, 11:48 AM
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I don't think it's futile. I think there are real gains. Were the gains large enough to justify the work? That's probably the debatable part, but the efforts were definitely not futile. Gains have been made with success- so far.


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Old 03-19-2017, 05:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schroeder View Post
I don't think it's futile. I think there are real gains. Were the gains large enough to justify the work? That's probably the debatable part, but the efforts were definitely not futile. Gains have been made with success- so far.


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Perhaps I should rephrase that. I had also typed "I get what you're doing." but backspaced it. Even if part of the work may outwardly appear to be senseless to some, you have satisfied your quest which is simply to know what you're driving. I get that, and its not as unusual or crazy as you may imagine. You've obviously come to view welds as simple fasteners, as they should be IMO. That takes away the boundaries of what is feasible and leaves you wide open on your car, to decide how. The things to bear in mind are all the remaining untouched seams on the car. As always, its your call on your car. Enjoy the project!
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Old 03-19-2017, 05:34 PM
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Thanks for the kind words hcompton.

Idrivejunk, yes, now I know what I'm driving, and that is exactly what I need. After my project is done I will have been thru every single panel.


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Old 03-26-2017, 11:38 AM
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Well fellas I'm trying to prep these two pieces for the SPI epoxy primer I just got in. I've started stripping with a DA sander, 2" die grinder strip discs. 2" die grinder 80 grit roloc wheels, 4.5" grinder strip disc, and 2" roloc strip discs. After about 2 hrs this is where I am on the inner roof structure and underside of the roof.



I'm already wondering if there is a better way. Are there any chemical strippers I can use that will not affect my SPI epoxy primer? Can I carefully and lightly sand blast the inner roof structure without warping it? The blasting is what I'm leaning to. I plan on grinding and using all the methods I mentioned above to remove the paint and rust from the actual underside of the skin because I think blasting something like that would inevitably warp since there are no ridges or anything to make it sturdy.

Also note the black, embedded rust on the underside of the roof skin that I have already made passes on with the 4.5" grinder stripper disc. Is this the type of rust that requires an OSPHO assault?


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Old 03-26-2017, 11:56 AM
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I wouldn't hesitate to blast the inner structure at around 70-80 lbs pressure. There are enough beads and bends to hold that from warping.

I know Barry doesn't like rust converters under his epoxy. Others have removed the pits with Ospho and wire wheels before the epoxy. I haven't been brave enough to try any acid based cleaning under paint, as I have no experience with acids and very little with paint. I did blast and SPI prime/seal the bottom of my floor pan before paint and it all seems to have worked well.
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Old 03-26-2017, 12:19 PM
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The dark red primer might wipe off with a thinner rag easier than sanding. If I were you, I would use 40 grit on a 6" DA to start. Do the heavy work with that, then switch to 80 grit. Also worth mention is the pattern your DA has. Using one with a coarse (big) orbital pattern will strip faster than one that has a finer pattern. You want a rattly harder to hold DA for rough metal stuff and a buzzy smooth sanding one for finish work such as primer and paint.

As TMP said, the inner structure is screaming blast me! I'll leave the rust treatment advice alone but the inside of the roof skin looks like it might be OK with thorough sanding, cleaning, and just epoxy. Moisture can't land on upside-down stuff.
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Old 03-26-2017, 12:35 PM
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Gosh I love this forum. I get anders almost as quickly as picking up the phone and calling someone!!

Anyway, yea, I think I will blast the inner roof structure. I think I'll have to strip the underside of the roof skin with various grinding and sanding pads. While DPI doesn't really "like" ospho under their epoxy, they say that if you use it, reactivate it after it dries, and then rinse it off with water you should be fine. I of course err on the side of not taking risks, but being as this is the under side of the roof and in a place where not even I will see it, much less anyone else, I think I would try the ospho treatment. That being said, is this kind of rust where one would use OSPHO? I see threads about people using it on "surface rust," but I don't know what that ever is and how severe it is. So the question stands; is this dark rust, that seems to be below the surface, something that I should destroy with OSPHO? Yes, grinding and wire wheeling would probably take care of it, but being as these skins are 20ga (.033"-.037"), I hesitate to keep grinding more and more meat away.

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Old 03-27-2017, 10:11 AM
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Thanks for the product suggestions. It seems when doing this kind of work knowing what products to use is 2/3 of the battle.

When I said I was using the 2" roloc discs I was using them on a die grinder by the way, not on the DA haha. Anyway, I'll try the brass wire wheel. I have a cup exactly like that from harbor freight but it's in steel. I'm also going to talk to SPI and see why they say about chemical stripping. I'll report back here.

I do need to buy a box of the maroon Scotch brute pads. They're mentioned so much. I know I could use some. I've been getting by with the small stripper discs for the die grinder.


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Old 03-27-2017, 11:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schroeder View Post
Thanks for the product suggestions. It seems when doing this kind of work knowing what products to use is 2/3 of the battle.

When I said I was using the 2" roloc discs I was using them on a die grinder by the way, not on the DA haha. Anyway, I'll try the brass wire wheel. I have a cup exactly like that from harbor freight but it's in steel. I'm also going to talk to SPI and see why they say about chemical stripping. I'll report back here.

I do need to buy a box of the maroon Scotch brute pads. They're mentioned so much. I know I could use some. I've been getting by with the small stripper discs for the die grinder.


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Not brass.
That's just a plating to keep them from rusting.
Your steel one is fine.
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Old 04-01-2017, 08:07 AM
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What type of sand do you guys suggest to use on blasting panels? In the past I have just used typical cement mixing sand from my local concrete distributor.

Also, I notice when I look for ospho that some is green and some is black. Is there a difference between the two? Which kind do I need to neutralize the rust?

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Old 04-01-2017, 09:58 AM
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Here's one. I'm sure there are all kinds out there at different prices.
Silica free is what you want for sure.

BLACK BEAUTYŽ - The Original Black BeautyŽ Abrasives
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Old 04-01-2017, 10:19 AM
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Any use of normal concrete sand will cause delamination??


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Old 04-02-2017, 08:41 AM
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Is the use of normal sand bad for the part or is it not recommended due to the danger of inhaling silica? My next question is; why is inhaling silica a concern? Can't I just wear a dust mask? Problem solved- I would think


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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 04-02-2017, 09:20 AM
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Silica in your lungs is like asbestos over time. It doesn't break down or go away. It is known to cause cancer.
A dust mask will prevent the larger particles from entering. You would still be inhaling the minute ones.
A painters mask will be much better.
Sand isn't as hard as black diamond type particles and doesn't penetrate as well. Sand will work. The job will be quicker and the outcome will be better with a harder particle.
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