To replace or not to replace: roof skin on 77 Trans an - Page 4 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 04-06-2017, 08:08 PM
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A possibly more tame method could be just zapping a little tack weld on the correct side of the metal, to apply heat and shrink with cold rag if you want / need. You should be practicing that on a scrap though, man. What I can see of what you did looks alright to me. If you have the 11oz metal handle hammers from HF (I see your comma dolly looks like it might be from the set) those work a little different than other hammer sets I've had. Takes a little getting used to. But yeah, good enough. Gently run a sanding block over it to map the contour, then show us again?

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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 04-06-2017, 08:12 PM
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Contour sanding block? I'll have to look this up on google. Sorry for my ignorance, I won't hide it, I have a lot to learn.

Yes, I have the HF hammer and dolly set. It's my first and only. How can they work different than other kits being as they're just chunks of metal? I don't mean to sound snide or cocky, that's an honest, sincere question.


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  #48 (permalink)  
Old 04-06-2017, 08:36 PM
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They are a lot lighter than most hammers, and perhaps less pleasant to use. Needing more wrist flick to compensate for the weight and feel of a fiberglass or better yet, wooden handle. But I have a problem right wrist and am right handed. But seriously, its the first set of dollies I ever saw with scooped out places on them. It kinda defeats the purpose of the tool, providing less inertia to back up the hammer. For working lighter gauge smog era GM steel, they probably do you just fine but as you just saw, if you swat the right spot and get good aim and contact, you'll pinch the metal thin in a spot and blop-pop goes the high spot.

As far as "mapping the contour" goes... Just act like you are going to block sand some bondo. Slap 180 grit on any sanding block and just slide it in an x pattern first one way then another, over and around the dent spot. The bright straight line scratches will stand out from the orbital scratches and make it easy to locate and evaluate the roof's contour discrepancies.
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  #49 (permalink)  
Old 04-06-2017, 08:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schroeder View Post
Contour sanding block? I'll have to look this up on google. Sorry for my ignorance, I won't hide it, I have a lot to learn
Don't google that, it might lead you down a confusing path. I didn't say "contour sanding block" but yeah thats kinda what they do, contour sanding. That might be a brand name though who knows. I just meant a block. A short 2 x 4 could even work. Anything flat.
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  #50 (permalink)  
Old 04-07-2017, 04:36 AM
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Thanks guys. I'll prime and sand. Do you have a recommendation on a hammer and dolly set?


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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 04-07-2017, 10:26 AM
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Gonna pick up some of the black diamond blasting media from tractor supply today after work. Is fine or medium best? I was thinking medium might be better.


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  #52 (permalink)  
Old 04-07-2017, 11:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schroeder View Post
Thanks guys. I'll prime and sand. Do you have a recommendation on a hammer and dolly set?


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Check Harbor Freight

Body And Fender Set 7 Pc

If you want higher quality, Dagger Tools.
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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 04-07-2017, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Schroeder View Post
Gonna pick up some of the black diamond blasting media from tractor supply today after work. Is fine or medium best? I was thinking medium might be better.


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Medium will bite more, I would assume, as well.
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  #54 (permalink)  
Old 04-07-2017, 12:33 PM
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I like medium for heavy rust but for light duty, the fine gets into smaller areas better. I have a sifter funnel to reuse the fine, but the medium won't go thru to clean it. I need to find a funnel for the medium size grit, as I can't recover that now.
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  #55 (permalink)  
Old 04-07-2017, 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
Check Harbor Freight

Body And Fender Set 7 Pc

If you want higher quality, Dagger Tools.

This is the very set that Schroeder and I both have. Pretty much when my second to last hammer head comes loose, I go get whatever they have on the shelf. Last time it was that Maddox set but in times past (3 or 4 times) the handles have been fiberglass and with less pretty but more businesslike heads. I will say this for the set you linked... the head flats are nice and flat, and the pick head is sharp enough to generate the desired effect. Likewise, the shrinking hammer face is sharp enough to do something on thin steel. They are pretty hammers and therefore not to be trusted, lol. But those things about the heads have proven useful for me where other sets really did not. Schroeder is working with 20 gauge rather than 18 and the set will probably do just fine for that. I am a dolly fiend so I had to ask about the scooped-out red dolly when I saw it.
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  #56 (permalink)  
Old 04-08-2017, 04:21 AM
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Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
This is the very set that Schroeder and I both have. Pretty much when my second to last hammer head comes loose, I go get whatever they have on the shelf. Last time it was that Maddox set but in times past (3 or 4 times) the handles have been fiberglass and with less pretty but more businesslike heads. I will say this for the set you linked... the head flats are nice and flat, and the pick head is sharp enough to generate the desired effect. Likewise, the shrinking hammer face is sharp enough to do something on thin steel. They are pretty hammers and therefore not to be trusted, lol. But those things about the heads have proven useful for me where other sets really did not. Schroeder is working with 20 gauge rather than 18 and the set will probably do just fine for that. I am a dolly fiend so I had to ask about the scooped-out red dolly when I saw it.
Oh shoot.

I didn't notice the "shrinking" hammer.
To OP. There is no such thing.
I used mine to customize into other purpose hammers. Do not assume you can shrink with it.

A shrinking disc is an item that actually works.
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  #57 (permalink)  
Old 04-08-2017, 04:42 AM
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To replace or not to replace: roof skin on 77 Trans an

Never heard of a shrinking hammer. That doesn't really make sense. Didn't know there was a shrinking disc. Would that have fixed my oil canning? That seems like a much more tame way to go about fixing such s problem on 20ga steel. I used my torch. We live on a farm so it's big and means business. It's for cutting through 3/4" steel and the like!! I need to get a smaller tip and a rose bud end. Been meaning to do that for years now.


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  #58 (permalink)  
Old 04-08-2017, 04:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schroeder View Post
Never heard of a shrinking hammer. That doesn't really make sense. Didn't know there was a shrinking disc. Would that have fixed my oil canning? That seems like a much more tame way to go about fixing such s problem on 20ga steel. I used my torch. We live on a farm so it's big and means business. It's for cutting through 3/4" steel and the like!! I need to get a smaller tip and a rose bud end. Been meaning to do that for years now.


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The shrinking disc will take care of oil canning.
Torch works but can make a real mess as well.
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  #59 (permalink)  
Old 04-08-2017, 04:54 AM
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Yes, it seems he torch could cause way more problems. I'll have to look into this. I'm guessing I'll need it more time through the project.


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  #60 (permalink)  
Old 04-08-2017, 06:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
Oh shoot.

I didn't notice the "shrinking" hammer.
To OP. There is no such thing.
I used mine to customize into other purpose hammers. Do not assume you can shrink with it.

A shrinking disc is an item that actually works.
I forgot to not say that word here. Oops.

Pugsy I agree with you on the "shrinking hammer" statements.
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