To replace or not to replace: roof skin on 77 Trans an - Page 5 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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  #61 (permalink)  
Old 04-08-2017, 06:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
Oh shoot.

I didn't notice the "shrinking" hammer.
To OP. There is no such thing.
I used mine to customize into other purpose hammers. Do not assume you can shrink with it.

A shrinking disc is an item that actually works.
Yes, a shrinking hammer does work but you need to use it with the shrinking dolly, neither will work by themselves but they mar up the surface too much to be of much use for metal working, good enough for a body man just prepping for a coat of bondo. I highly doubt a HF set will work much better than a rock tied on a stick though. The shrinking disc does work best with the most control over the work with the least amount of damage to the surface. Another place to get some good hammers is from aircraft tool supply (ATS). Nicely machined and made for metal working. Not something you would ever hit a chisel with without a second thought

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  #62 (permalink)  
Old 04-09-2017, 08:11 PM
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Well here's what the duplicolor white spray bomb revealed after sanding. There are still a couple areas I need the heat and rapid cool. They seem to be too high. The first one I did was the worst and looks the worst after sanding. None of them look great, but they're at least below flush where 1/16" - 1/32" of filler will conceal them I think.



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  #63 (permalink)  
Old 04-11-2017, 05:07 AM
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some of those roof skin high spots can be tricky to get back down. I do have a little tip you can try. Get a heavy 1/2 drive socket about a 3/4" should do. Hold the socket underneath (like a dolly) and centered with the pucker, use a pick hammer or rounded face hammer and reverse that pucker. or if you have a stud welder you could pull the pucker like any other (pulling and tapping at the same time) but from inside the car. A good time to hit those bad spots would have been when the skin was off.
Looks like you rinsed the Ospho off a little to soon, its rusting again. You'll have the oils from your hands all over the skin which will start rusting. You should scrub some more Ospho in and after wiping it off let it dry and leave it there until your ready to prime.Youll need to epoxy that before doing your filler work. What I do is is ospho the metal and when Im ready I'll prep and epoxy THEN search out the highs and lows after its been epoxied, the highs will pop out quickly and the lows will show up with some guide coat I prefer a very light misting of dollar store rattle can paint for a guide coat, white over black primer and black over gray primer. If its primed before you start working the metal theres no worries about contamination while the work is being done. I have some pics of what the oils and salts in your skin can do to bare metal, I can post but Im out of time this morning.

Last edited by deadbodyman; 04-11-2017 at 05:24 AM.
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  #64 (permalink)  
Old 04-11-2017, 08:02 AM
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I'll try the socket trick. The skin is still off the inner structure and car so I can easily access each side.

I do plan on adding another cost of ospho. As we discussed Saturday I will spray ospho onto the surface. I'll use a red scotch brite to scrub it in and remove the excess. I'll let it dry. After drying I'll hit it with 80G da sander and then 180g da sander. At that point I'll be ready for primer


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  #65 (permalink)  
Old 04-12-2017, 06:07 AM
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You can test for adhesion of waterless prep BEFORE you prime and its so simple I cant believe I didn't think of it sooner. after you've sanded with 80 then 180, wiped it down 2-3 times with a good waterborn W&G and ready to prime, all you have to do to see if its the coating is off is to spray some water on a spot somewhere, if the Ospho coating is off, it will flash rust, if not, nothing will happen and its not all off. Hows that for a simple solution?
As we know water will flash rust so I don't ever rinse.This is where SPI and I have different opinions on ospho its my opinion that all a rust spot or pit needs is a little moisture to start rusting again, even under the primer, so I have never used water, and as far as neutralizing go's, I feel once the Ospho is dry the acidic level is gone so it is neutral. Rinsing with water wont work once the Ospho has dried, water wont penetrate it, only more acid will penetrate the coating so when its wetted down with more Ospho and rinsed all your doing is washing it off NOT neutralizing it. Washing it off is a good thing though, except for flash rust and getting that rust started again, its a sure way to get your epoxy to stick, so wash it off if you want or if what I say makes sense sand it off either way it has to come off if you want the epoxy to stick like its supposed too. Everything Im saying in this post concerns the outside sheetmetal. on the inside things are a bit different, theres a lot of irregualar surfaces and you cant sand everything so use a scuff pad to scratch it up and a damp paper towel to wipe up the dust, if you have a white powder then you left to much on after the application when you wiped it off OR you didn't wipe it at all. Not wiping it dry is a problem (theres too much on there), not scrubbing it in with a scuff pad will also be a problem because your not removing anything, your just converting the surface rust. So if anyone wants to use Ospho remember to scrub it in and ALWAYS wipe it dry, even on the inside structures, unless you just want to convert the rust which isn't a good way to do it but it IS one notch above doing nothing.
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  #66 (permalink)  
Old 04-14-2017, 09:37 AM
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So how close do you guys get body panels when you have to bang dents out and stuff? I've been chasing a couple of these oil canning spots for awhile. I get the centers to go back down but it seems like the areas around the heated zones stick up then. Anyway, I'm to the point where I am getting them below flush with the rest of the skin so I can get a skim coat of filler in them and call it good. Here are the 2 worst areas. Some turned out good enough.





What are the ramifications of letting this go as is and hitting with filler? Being a flimsy roof skin will the filler crack? What about the paint? Is there anything like that I have to think about or am i worrying myself for nothing?


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  #67 (permalink)  
Old 04-14-2017, 11:33 AM
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If you still have a pop bubble, you're not done yet.
I find with a torch, you can not get the oil canning out unless you make a red hot rosebud, use a dolly underneath and tap it down. When you heat it up it puckers and need to be tapped down to shrink it into itself.

I have no problem with 1/16" bondo as long as it's not still flim flamming.
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  #68 (permalink)  
Old 04-14-2017, 11:36 AM
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The torch really makes a mess though.

A shrinking disc takes out oil canning without doing so.
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  #69 (permalink)  
Old 04-14-2017, 03:05 PM
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What I have been doing is heating it up with my torch just until the metal turns read. It REALLY bubbles up. I hit it lightly a couple times with the hammer and dolly. Then I quickly turn around, grab a wet rag, and throw it on the popped up "bubble."



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  #70 (permalink)  
Old 04-14-2017, 03:19 PM
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To replace or not to replace: roof skin on 77 Trans an

So get me a shrinking disc like this?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/220792075020

So they're just smooth disc that create heat in the panel thru friction? Why didn't you guys tell me about this a week ago!!?? Then my roof skin wouldn't be so effed up! Lol

I am looking closely at the item in the eBay auction I posted. I don't like that it's made of sheet metal, although I know it's probably fine. They're pretty steep for that they are. Could I take this wire wheel, cut then it off that in point to in the pic, weld it to the other side, and then use the domed, red side as my shrinking disc? I'd take the red paint off it first of course.



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Last edited by Schroeder; 04-14-2017 at 03:28 PM.
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  #71 (permalink)  
Old 04-14-2017, 06:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schroeder View Post
..............


....................... They're pretty steep for that they are. Could I take this wire wheel, cut then it off that in point to in the pic, weld it to the other side, and then use the domed, red side as my shrinking disc? I'd take the red paint off it first of course.

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They're made of stainless steel.
I don't think that cup will work.
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  #72 (permalink)  
Old 04-14-2017, 07:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schroeder View Post
Why didn't you guys tell me about this a week ago!!?? Then my roof skin wouldn't be so effed up! Lol


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Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
Oh shoot.

I didn't notice the "shrinking" hammer.
To OP. There is no such thing.
I used mine to customize into other purpose hammers. Do not assume you can shrink with it.

A shrinking disc is an item that actually works.
......................
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  #73 (permalink)  
Old 04-14-2017, 07:16 PM
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Totally forgot that the shrinking disc WAS mentioned in that previous post. I do remember and was thinking about the shrinking hammer.

Anyway, I made a metal shrinking disc and quickly realized it probably has to be stainless steel. I tried the one I made on a bent up piece of metal I had laying around. It threw a lot sparks and really chewed up the metal.





I'm going to in to the hardware store in the morning, buy a little sheet of stainless, and try again. Unless there is some other feature I need and will not be able to replicate.


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  #74 (permalink)  
Old 04-14-2017, 08:24 PM
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To replace or not to replace: roof skin on 77 Trans an

I was reading some old threads here on hot rodders and this shrinker disc was recommended:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/112328122734

The old threads said that the 4.5" one was too small and localized. They also said this seller deserves the business for whatever the reason. However, price is a big selling point for me and this 9" disc seems to be the exact same thing and is ~$11 cheaper than the link above:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/220792084299

Would I be better served to just buy this rather than screw around making my own that won't have a perfect shape? I'm thinking so.


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  #75 (permalink)  
Old 04-15-2017, 04:26 AM
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I have never tried a shrinking disc. You may have missed another suggestion from before those came up.
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