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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 12-07-2017, 05:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4 Jaw Chuck View Post
I doubt your cam and build change wouldn't net you more than 30 HP and the same in torque, all at slightly higher rpm.

Seems hardly worth it to me considering your budget.
I should have been clearer, I'm not doing this for power, I'm doing it for longevity. The solid flat tappet is going to eventually wear out. And being a solid lifter setup it's beating the valvetrain up more than a hydraulic would.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 12-07-2017, 10:32 PM
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What?

I put 350 000 km on a solid lifter Ford 2.8L, bore wear and rings gave out long before the cam, I was the second owner and the first one didn't do regular valve adjustments.

Why do you think this is fact?

Yearly valve adjustments is all you need to stay on top of it depending on how many miles you put on it.

Never heard this wives tale before.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 12-07-2017, 10:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4 Jaw Chuck View Post
What?

I put 350 000 km on a solid lifter Ford 2.8L, bore wear and rings gave out long before the cam, I was the second owner and the first one didn't do regular valve adjustments.

Why do you think this is fact?

Yearly valve adjustments is all you need to stay on top of it depending on how many miles you put on it.

Never heard this wives tale before.
Fair enough, but I have a lifter that's wearing in a funny pattern, so this cam is going to be toast one day. I'm not trying to discredit anything you're saying, just stating my point of view also
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 12-08-2017, 10:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericnova72 View Post
You would use a retro-fit style cam, not a stock OEM type roller cam, as the nose end is different, .The rest is pretty easy, you need a cam button to prevent cam forward and aft motion in the block, a good solid timing chain cover so the thrust from the button doesn't flex the cover and give too much clearance, and a set of link bar retro-fit roller lifters.

This keeps the timing chain the same as stock. I would recommend a cast aluminum timing cover rather than some thin stamped steel version, or stamped aluminum, You can find them around the web for around $30.

Pushrods will be different, the roller pushrods are a bunch shorter, like .600" or more shorter.

Valvespring may be different, depending on what you have now.
A steel distributor gear is necessary too.
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Old 12-12-2017, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by malc View Post
A steel distributor gear is necessary too.
Scrub that......Ive just received an Edelbrock stock style roller cam kit and
they tell me to use a cast distributor gear.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 12-12-2017, 04:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malc View Post
Scrub that......Ive just received an Edelbrock stock style roller cam kit and
they tell me to use a cast distributor gear.
This need for a different distributor gear material is entirely dependent on the base material the new roller cam is made of.

If it is an austempered cast iron camshaft, or a steel billet cam but has the pressed on proiferal cast iron rear journal and gear (Howards is one company who can do tis)...then it take a stock iron gear.

If it is steel billet entirely, it needs a bronze, a melonized steel, or hardened steel gear in order to survive.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 12-12-2017, 06:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericnova72 View Post
This need for a different distributor gear material is entirely dependent on the base material the new roller cam is made of.

If it is an austempered cast iron camshaft, or a steel billet cam but has the pressed on proiferal cast iron rear journal and gear (Howards is one company who can do tis)...then it take a stock iron gear.

If it is steel billet entirely, it needs a bronze, a melonized steel, or hardened steel gear in order to survive.
This has created massive confusion for me in the past. But after waaaay too much reading I've determined one of two things to always be true - get a melonized gear or go with what the cam manufacturer recommends. Here's a little more reading to aid in the confusion :It’s All in the Twist: Taking the Confusion Out of Distributor Gear Compatibility | OneDirt

The next piece of confusion comes in shaft diameter , .500, .491, .437 ?? Most of the aftermarkets appear to be .500", but the stock stuff can be anywhere depending on what you have.
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Old 12-14-2017, 06:07 PM
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personally id grab a 96-2000 vortec and drop it in. spending that $ for a retro setup amounts to the cost of a used intake for the vortec swap. Everything else bolts right up..

except you now have a roller which is MUCH better, WONT wipe a lobe at some point in time and they dont leak a drop of oil and are excellent motor!

Just hot tank the block, hone, new rings and bearings and youll be good for a couple of years of thrashing..
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