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  #136 (permalink)  
Old 05-25-2018, 08:26 PM
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Oh man are those D-Nuts a major PIA. When I started working on my B pillars as the passenger one was bent some and I had to replace almost all of them. I searched all over for replacements and finally located some I think it was snyders also. There was a limited quantity available and I bought enough to do the B pillars. They were pricey too! I am going to change to a clinch nut on everything else where possible. If I have to weld the hole shut and redrill for a clinch nut it will be business as usual..

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  #137 (permalink)  
Old 05-25-2018, 08:50 PM
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I hear you.
I discovered my A pillar D nut problems when doing final assembly and it was tough.
Next project will be all clinch nuts if there are problems.
My current project is a 26 T coupe converted to a 5 window pickup.
Next project will be an almost perfect body 27 T coupe with welded in steel roof, Jag IRS and full fendered.
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  #138 (permalink)  
Old 05-29-2018, 11:05 PM
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I finally reached the milestone on the deck Lid project.

I finished attaching the new shell I built to put the deck lid skin on. and everything fit. I got the fat mat down and assembled the pieces clamped them together and went riveting away. I used stock factory type 3/16 Steel rivets and along the top in the back I used 3/16 Click Lock rivets. On the Hinge Block/Bearing I decided to use bolts and nylock nuts just in case I ever needed to rebuild the hinge points.

I almost screwed up when I was assembling the 2 pieces as I had totally forgot to allow for any method of latch mounting. I needed a platform to hold a latch too. I am looking at a remote mounted trunk release but haven't decided yet which one. My deck lid is smooth where the oringinal key went in to the latch I decided to set 4 screws through the inner pannel and I cut another piece of 18 ga to hold the screws in position till I am ready to install a latch..

I then set the inner panel and clamped it in place. On the sides I used 7/16 head 3/16 shank steel rivets and the blind area I used 3/16 Steel Click Lock rivets. I did mount the hinge bearing/bushing using screws with nylock nuts. instead of rivets. That way if I ever need to replace a bushing it is a simple process to unscrew and replace. The last thing I need to do is roll the edges over the inner panel on the sides and on the bottom. I will take care of this in the upcoming weekend. I ordered myself a 5 inch rubber coated dolly to use on the bottom seam so I don't beat the bejeebers out of the skin. It should be here by friday.

Next step I will finish pulling the drivers door off and get both of them torn down.

This deck lid is the hardest thing I have ever done body and fender wise and I am elated that it worked out so well. A big thanks to all of you guys I call my advisors for all the hints and help during this learning process. I finally consumed the elephant in the shop! I did Persevere
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  #139 (permalink)  
Old 05-30-2018, 04:05 AM
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That's terrific Rip.
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  #140 (permalink)  
Old 05-30-2018, 05:41 AM
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Ditto, Congratulations Rip.
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  #141 (permalink)  
Old 05-30-2018, 12:42 PM
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Congratulations on a major task very well done!!!
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  #142 (permalink)  
Old 06-04-2018, 07:58 PM
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Well the Door repairs are now beginning.

First thing I want to say here is I finally got the doors off after major effort to remove the slotted screws that had rusted up. I will say every screw was different in that some came out semi easily and others I used every trick in the book but I was successful and only have to repair 3 nuts out of 24. Not a perfect average but not bad.

I decided to begin with the passenger door as that is my problem door that won't shut right.

So first order was to photograph this thing and measure 6 ways from Sunday. I got my dimensions and to my surprise the door was straight as can be!

Hmm I think I may have a bent A Pillar! There are some funny things going on about how the cowl meets the firewall. Oh well that is a little farther way down the road.

So after more measuring and calculating and I was ready to cut the bad stuff away from the lower door.

I have laid out and marked the area of the inside structure that needs to be removed. Also in trying to think ahead I realised I should do this structure before tearing the skin off and replacing it.

I planned on grinding the edge of the skin and removing the strip that is folded over along the bottom of the door. After looking at things I did about 3 inches back on each side without actually removing the skin. Doing it this way I have the old skin still in place to use as a template per say and a guide to keep the structure straight.

I will say grinding the edges of the skin was simple and so easy. I found that if you watch your line your grinding you know when to stop because the very center of the area you are grinding will become slightly discolored and the separation line is clearly visible..

So I have the bad section cut out and the new piece partially fit .. I left a lot more steel on the door when I cut structure earlier and now I need to start sneaking up on the line and make a final fit then weld it in.

Next I will finish removing the old skin in preperation of attaching the new skin. I have some hardware like pressnuts on the door that needs to be replaced too.

Looking it over I am feeling comfortable about doing the work. I just hope I don,t jinx it..


Photos included!

Door1 I am gonna start with the passenger door.
Door2 Some rust through in the bottom of the door.
Door3 The whole way along the area is rusted through. What is left is thin
Door4 Laying out the new piece just to make sure it will work.
Door5 Checking the door skin sizing
Work1 The first cut the debachery begains
Work2 Second cut no going back
Work3 Making sure the patch is goin
g to fit.
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  #143 (permalink)  
Old 06-05-2018, 05:16 AM
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Now you're onto a much funner project than that deck lid.
Enjoy.
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  #144 (permalink)  
Old 06-12-2018, 04:54 PM
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The guys that built those doors back in 1927 gotta be smiling down on you for the awesome work your doing.

Nice job
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  #145 (permalink)  
Old 06-12-2018, 10:00 PM
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Why thank you Mr LA. I am holding myself to a better standard than was done 91 years ago. so far I am making progress not at light speed but progress just the same. Got a ways to go. If my body holds up and don't breakdown I might actually get the body of the Coupe ready to fit to the chassis which means basic bodywork done. Lots to do.. Thanks for stopping by!
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  #146 (permalink)  
Old 06-12-2018, 10:59 PM
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Door Update!

So after trimming cutting and fitting and some fixing I have the bottom of the passenger door fit and welded up.

However it was not without incident. The cutting and fitting went very well but when it was time to weld... The old 91 year old steel and my relative inexperience with welding old metal to 18 GA new steel rears its head. I did good at first and if it blew a hole I would cool the whole piece before I went on. Then it struck.. The old "I can fix that little hole by welding more on and blowing a bigger hole. I chased the holes way to far and when I stopped to come to my senses I realized I needed to STOP what I was doing and figure out what I was doing wrong?

To shorten the story I watched a lot of video, read about different techniques, Did some practicing trying various techniques and finally figured out my technique.

It all boils down proper angles and backing up every old steel seam with Copper. I cut a strip of 035 copper sheet. I mounted the strip on top of a small block of wood and held it to the wood with some foil HVAC tape. I positioned the strip and clamped it to the panel to be my heat sink.

I cut away the bunged up metal and mate two patches out of 18 GA and using the copper I was able to tack and weld the repair piece in and never blew through once! I like using this 035 copper better than aluminum cause the copper is more malleable and it did a awesome job! This was actually fun doing this even when I was getting frustrated but more rewarding when it finally clicked!

I have the inside lower part of the door complete on the passengers door but I am not going to cut the outer skin all the way off till I get this part done on the drivers door. When both doors are ready for the skin replacement I will do both doors at basically the same time. That is so I can clean and prime the interior of both door shells and the back side of the skins before assembly. Then I will have the inside all epoxy protected and ready to be assembled.

Now to move along to something I discovered today measuring the front "A" Pillar. The passenger door had been hitting the top of the A pillar when you tried to close the door and I found the cause is a Bent A Pillar. about 10 to 12 inches down from the top on the right A pillar it makes a almost imperceptible lean rearward. If you put a straight edge on the drivers A pillar starting at the top and going down to the center of the pillar the drivers is straight absolute flat.

Do the same thing on the passengers side and there is a full 1/4 inch bend in the passengers A Pillar. from mid pillar to the top. Soooo I am going to have to take a little time and figure out how this happened so I can un happen it. My suspicion is someone picked the body up with a forklift on the strips of metal the top attaches to between the A and B Pillar at the top. I dunno I think I will have to set down and smoke on this!! Looks like I am going to have to "Endeavour To Persevere Again.
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  #147 (permalink)  
Old 07-01-2018, 11:28 PM
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The Doors Continued!!

I like that the doors are alive and well in my shop today. So here is the score card as of today.
I have both door bottoms installed and ground. I finished cutting the door skin off both doors. I cut long this time to be able to cut the door skin skin on the top and make a decent seem with room for maybe a small oops lets hope that never needs to happen.

I have found some interesting things in that it looks like I am missing one lower window channel in each door might be interesting finding the oem replacement parts. I am also going to have to find the lower window strip that the attaches to the glass and lift arm. Then I think I will go with electric windows as all my old hardware like window crank assembly is pretty rusty.. and electrical windows simplifies construction.

Moving on now I think I may delete the outside door lock. The only door lock is on the passengers side and If I delete it, it makes for a smoother cleaner look on the door. I don't want to have to go to the passengers side to lock and un-lock the doors. Besides putting a 1927 lock on this car is just the same as leaving it open. The door mechanisms are crudely made and if someone really wanted inside there are plenty of ways. I do think I may use a couple of door lock solenoids and a remote to lock and un-Lock. I dunno.

So the first door is stripped and ready for a little sanding, however I have the inside of the door all clean so I can give the inside of the door a good coat of SPI Epoxy I will do the same for the new door skin and do both doors insides so I can do the skin fit up and installed. At least the inside will have a fighting chance of staying in good condition.

Tomorrow I will finish cleaning the inside of door number 2 and then do the exterior. I will need to shift to bead blasting as I need to blast the hinges the window pieces and a whole bucket full of SLP's.

I am feeling better working on the doors now as it is actually fun. Oh did I say that??

I hope to get the door in SPI Epoxy and the skin finished and ready to get back to the A and B pillars. When that s done I need to trim the underside of the cowl in front so it will fit on the 32 frame. The 32 frame is flat in the middle and starts a gentle 1/2 rise to the front of the frame. This starts about 18 or so inches from the firewall back.

I can actually see some sort of progress on this thing. Still about 18 million steps from completion. I am going to persevere on this thing. I am actually getting into the kool fun things in this project and I am diggin it!!!!!!

Just some random pics.
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  #148 (permalink)  
Old 07-01-2018, 11:56 PM
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While you have your doors apart, may I suggest that you take the time to work out your bump stop rubbers and window tracks.
Even make your slide tracks now since it is so much easier getting this stuff done now.
I tried doing it at the end when the car was painted and I can honestly say I wish I had the opportunity to see inside my doors like you have now and was able to do all the fiddly stuff then.
Just my humble opinion...
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  #149 (permalink)  
Old 07-02-2018, 11:24 PM
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You are right fiftyv8 now that it is open I better fix this track and such.

The missing window track mystery has finally been solved. It seems it is not considered a window track per say but it is what holds the track in place as the original appears to be a semi rigid cloth and wire channel.

The side channel was attached to the body and lower track base with clips. The top channel is a fitted foam cushion for the window top to rest against. The cushion has it's own special channel it attaches to and I was lucky as that channel was still attached to both doors as It is almost impossible to find!

After a full day of research it seems pretty clear what needs to be done. The overall prefered way is to replace the flexible cloth channel with a rigid channel of the correct size. I found the channel I needed and bought 2 96 inch inch sticks. I need 2 channels 36 inches long for each door. I could buy shorter pieces but there is no price difference between a stick of 48 inch and stick of 96 inches. Go figure?

I found I needed to get the piece that attaches to the glass at the bottom of the window. I think ford calls it a window lifter. Those parts are available so I have a couple on order. In fact I ordered the tracks and the other little bits and pieces so I can get this part wrapped up. I should have the goodies next week so it is off to the bead blaster and blast for a few days.
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  #150 (permalink)  
Old 07-03-2018, 12:31 AM
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Rip, take a step back and be sure the channel that you plan to use will work, as the channel needs to be installed at the same time as the window pane, it is an unusual method and was not used in the Model A's.
Snyder's have the correct channel and you will quickly note that each end of the channels requires a hook at the top and a T tag at the lower end. The T tag inserts into the keyhole cut out at the lower part of your doors.
The channels need to be a correct length to install and fit right.
I think that I may have found a You tube video that helped me get my head around how it works.
That is why my comment about doing stuff now is so important since you have excellent access to see how things will work.
I suggest take it slow and easy and make you channels and ensure all your lock mechanisms fit and work as do you window winders and the like.
I did it the Irish way and it was painful to say the least...
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