Nice, I was more interested in the sheet metal part.
For us RHD guys we need to remove the indent for the LHD steering column first up.
Mine looks like this.
Again we are thinking along the same lines. I haven't done any work on the dash as I need to set my column angle and that will be the next when the body goes for its next fitting on the frame. That is after the doors are back together so I can make sure everything fits and plays together nicely.
I like the way you removed the weird angle for the steering wheel from the bottom of the dash. That is how I envision the dash being done on mine. as I said I may have a ash wood facing on it just to match the exposed wood of the top. The top will have gray diamond tuck laid down as the first layer of the top. There will NOT be a headliner per say but sanded and stained roof structure and that diamond tuck acting like the inside of a convertible on top of the wood structure.
I do have a plan for behind the right side of the dash. I am going to fashion a panel from the bottom edge of the dash going straight across to the firewall, and hinge it at the firewall. The engine computer, relays, and master power and fuse block, and wire distribution will all be centered there.
I will close it with a couple of Dzus fasteners. That will make everything accessible and easy to service anything electrical. There is a lot of available unused space behind the panel. ( No Heater or AC ) I did notice you took advantage of the space as well. :cool:
Onward and upward again:cool:
Yes RVW, it does seem we are applying the same kind of logic to these issues that confront us.
The scary thing is I have an exact same style of gauges set aside for my next T coupe build...
I have just started building a bolt in prototype door restrainer strap mechanism and have started a new thread for it.
Things are coming along, but not without issues of course.
All the same I am happy with how it is panning out and will continue to post more when I get it done.
Well, here we are again. at least it is cloudy today, them 95 degree days tends to take all of a persons energy and drains it away. Of course this is from someone that is used to 70's and low 80's at most. Today is a blessed cool day here. Morning clouds and some northwest drizzle. Should be a nice day this afternoon..
Back in the shop I am almost done with the passenger door. I finally got the work on my window channels designed and done. I am glad I used rigid channel as it solved all of my structure problems with the missing stock channels.
I fabricated my own channel hooks for the top of the channel and down below I installed a small bracket I can attach the channel to. The missing channel brace in the door actually helps with my glass change option I was wanting to incorporate. To change a glass just unscrew the bottom of the channel slide up to unhook the top and then lower the track enough to pull it clear of the top of the door and lean it just enough to slide the channel free. Installation is just the reverse. I still need to trim excess length on the tracks but that part is complete. all I have left to do is weld a few spots on the door that I didn't notice before. ( Hey Brian I understand what you meant about finding more welding to do when you thought you were done.)
I hope to have the inside of both doors primed by the weekend. I will then be ready to lay the skin on and finish both doors. It is nice to be able to work on the inside of the door with no outer skin it's so roomy.
I am hoping the SPI epoxy seals the inside of the door well and maybe it will last another 90 years.. I should be finished with this build by then. :cool:
Best Laid Plans
You know I thought I was going to have the inside of both of my doors in primer by now! Ha it seems I am never done with one thing till I see something else that needs attention. I fit the channels, made brackets for mounting and made a few internal repairs and straightened some parts.
I thought OK the inside is ready to be primed. I was just going to prime the inside with Epoxy and then finish the outside when I was ready. I finally decided I have spent to much time over thinking and counter thinking and it was starting to make my head hurt.
So I changed my plan and decided to strip the outside down to bare steel now and get everything cleaned, cut, fit, and ready to prime. Once everything is ready I will prime the inside and outside of the door, and the back side of the door skin. I will mask off a small area where I will be welding the panel and after welding it up the rest of the door will get fully primed with SPI. That will finish the door till ill I am ready to finish the exterior bodywork.
So tomorrow I will trim to fit the skin and maybe get it ready to weld in place. We shal see..:cool:
I assume you will hold off final welding the door skin until you can fit the doors to the body?
John, Yes sir I will fit the door and check how it fits. I can either adjust the door skin to fit or change the body some to make it fit. Hopefullly the fit will be like the initial fit before the skin was removed.
I have found if I keep the projects small enough I can work the part from the beginning to the finish process. I was trying to do the same work to both doors at the same time to keep my processes on track but it is really hard to do that as each part has it's own little quirks and such. you don't see a problem on one door but the other door may have a unique problem. I wind up spending a lot of time on one part of a door and it breaks my production concetrating.
This weekend I plan to finish the first door and maybe by mid next week I will have the other one ready to go also. All in a days work. ha ha.
Thanks for the encouragement John and all the guys helping me out on this.:cool::cool:
Today I was fitting and measuring and making sure all was well with the door skin alignment before coating the areas the door frame that the skin will cover with SPI.
As I sat there looking at the skin clamped up something didn't look right. I kept staring at the panel then I saw what was wrong! The Panel I purchased from Howells sheet metal was formed incorrectly! The door skin has a formed edge that goes all around and they used the wrong die or just didn't care as the trim on the pannel is sharp edged rectangular and the original trim on my door is curved and not even like a rectangle. Referenced to my photos.
Now I need to make the edge look close to stock and the thing that makes me nervous, is the howells skin has a nice sharp bend that will have to disappear and then contour the edge of the skin like the OEM.
Ok my options are limited, This replacement panel must fit the door and look like it was made that way. Buying 2 more replacements is not in the budget!
I am now officially seeking recommendations for a fix for my dilemma.
WWYD What Would You?
One more thing. I am not laying my problem completely on Howells as I had the responsibility to receive the product, Inspect it and accept or reject. I accepted it and set it to the side for about 12 months or so. I really didn't look at it with a critical eye. I still didn't notice the difference till today. So shame on me also..
Oh fiftyv8, if you are around I need some door height measurements if you would please.. Outside the door top right corner to lower right corner. center top to center bottom and left top to left bottom. I have several different numbers from different sources my numbers are one side top to bottom are 46 3/4" center reads 47 1/2" and the other side is 47 5/8". that is within a 1/8 or so of the other measurements. when the door is fit in the body it fits nice and looks just fine.
Thanks to everyone:thumbup:
Trim0 A crude drawing comparing the edge trim of a real T coup Compared to Howells junk.
trim1 This gives you a good shot of the flat topped trim on the new panel and the door for comparason.
Trim2 Here is a good shot of the OEM door upper.
Trim3 This shows differences between the 2.
Trim4 A better A-B comparison.
Trim5 The obvious differences. You see the inside edge of the OE it is smooth and gently curved. Look at the replacement part that is a 90 and sharp edged. :cool:
Hi RVW, sorry to be reading your bad news on the swaged door panel edges.
I've just checked the measurements for you on my best set of doors and can confirm your center measurement of 47 1/2" is spot on while the other end measurements here are a fraction over 1/16" taller.
No big deal and it is possible yours may be correct.
I feel no shame in saying that I would never purchase Howell's panels that were critical in any way, with the exception of having the tools available and knowing full well that I would have to rework them.
I have done this with the rear below the deck lid panel on my T coupe.
I have found them not only to be poor with reproduction quality and they and others are world famous for producing those door skin panels, I'd call it fraud.
I also ordered a pile of model T panels for reworking and would you believe it, they sent me stuff for the wrong years.
That is OK if you reside in the USA but for others it is a killer and makes returning them out of the question.
I ended up having to sell all my wrong panels for 50% off to move them on.
You may have noticed I don't have a kind word for them and you should not feel as if any of the blame is yours.
It has been going on for years with little or no improvement...
If you need anything else please let me know.
Don't feel bad RIP. In this hobby, I've been screwed over so many times, I won't even count them all or tell anyone, not even my best pal....he's only heard a few of them. We all get shafted and we all forget to inspect.
I'd say at this point, it's time to get your elephant cutlery out for a nice slow meal. Take that junk they sold you and turn them into gold.
I'd start by trying to copy about a foot long section, but a few pieces, for more experimenting, and then manipulate those samples on your bead roller to form the bulge and get closer to what you need.
Then move onto your panels. Sucks, but it's the frugalist way I know and is probably what I would do.
RVW, are you going to rework the panels you have???
I Kind of agree with Pugsy. Experimentation is probably going to tell you what you can accomplish. A small diameter T-dolley may work to soften the sharp corners by holding it behind the angle and gently working down the top sharp edge. The gentle curve in the detail will be more challenging I suspect.
If you can get the door close enough that you can live with it, how about modifying the door itself below the belt molding? You could make a compramise there and nobody would notice.
Good luck with them. I hate what you have run into but like Pugs said, I am not surprised. Aftermarket stuff is really bad.
Neato, my current project's big Howell's order is on the way.:(
RIP, my experience indicates that expecting that bead to be a match is unreasonable. A couple potential ideas for making the alteration come to mind though. Making a pair of bead roller or press dies or laying the bead in a trench on a board and hammering round stock in the backside to give roundness to the bead.
Thought of another possible way to try but its difficult to verbalize. Tell us your current thoughts, Rip. Wooden dies might work for what you're needing. Do you have an e wheel?
Rip, this is a second hard to visualize image thats better than the first, maybe. Might be out in left field here, but perhaps its food for thought. Bead rollers, brown is wooden dowel rods, blue is washers. A stepping die could offer a different arrangement, and theres no rule saying you can't run a bead die on one side and step on the other when its the creativity hour. In my thoughts, dowels in the image are clamped to the skin and the modification is done to a small area at a time.
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