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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 07-10-2015, 01:54 PM
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A little more progress has been Had. I have the left rear corner in place and welded initially. I need to grind down the excess but this side was even easier than the first. (Bit of a learning curve). I had finished rebuilding the center panel about a week or so ago and so after welding in this last corner patch I went ahead and put the center panel in place to check fit and alignment. I am pleased but I see I am going to have to work the T strip a little bit I did not see it was bent slightly. All in all I like how it is coming along.

I had to finish the corners and get the center panel finished so I can position the body and get ready to fit the body replacement Sub Rails. I wanted to have the structure of the rear completed so when I fit the Sub Rails I would have accurate dimensions for the rear body mounts. there is no room for error with the sub rails because they will be 1/8" away from the frame itself and they follow the curve of the frame up and over.

With this part of the body ready I have all the rest of the dimensions I need to finish up the chassis to roller status.

Next step is to remove the body and get serious with the frame. Cross members and mounts.

Progress is slow but steady...

Pictures show before and after. Remember nothing is completely finished yet.
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 07-10-2015, 08:04 PM
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Rip,
Looks good!

Are you going to pull the T strips out to clean under them? On mine, I'm glad I did. I wouldn't have found the bad area under T strip, at the belt line. Which caused me the split both sides belt lines apart.

You got ahead of me. lol

I have not been working on mine, I have outside house, and yard stuff to get done (honey do list), replacing fascia boards, and rain gutters (in the rain no less).

I have parts soaking in molasses. I was suppose to clean them a few days ago, but oh well, looks like tomorrow I will. Then put the rust sealer where needed, then I can put every thing back on also, so that I can finish my sub-frame, and tub it.

I see the dents in your quarter. Mine were just as bad on both sides, but someone bondo over them without trying to knock them out at all. I stripped about a 1/2 - 3/4 gallon of mud off my quarters (and they are small quarters), top and bottom. The body is mostly smooth underneath, I don't understand why he put such a thick layer over everything. I have hammered them out, and I just got a metal shrinking disc, and about ready to tackle some stretched areas, the body is completely down to bare metal now, waiting for epoxy primer.

Then back to the frame.

Keep up the good work!

Pat
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 07-10-2015, 11:53 PM
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I agonized over the T Strip decision. I wanted to believe in my mind that it was going to be good enough that there was no hidden damage. I still believe there is no damage but there is enough surface rust between the seams and under the T strip it demands that I take it apart!!!! Damn can of worms..

I have been mulling this over in my head. It looks like a straight forward job but with the surprises I have already had I am not holding my breath. The body is coming off the frame next week and going to my large flat table. There I will get everything square and see where I stand. After I verify it will set plumb I think I will blow it open at the belt line and the T strip so I can clean the metal and prep it and shoot a good cover coat of paint on the seams then put it back together.

Doing it that way I will save pain and agony later. See I talked myself into it. ha ha Taking the body apart on the flat table will be the best plan on moving forward with the body. I can keep it plumb and level all the way around.
Hey Pat, Speaking of tearing it apart at the belt line, I havenít even given it more than a cursory glance but is the belt line made the same way as the T strips? What holds it in place?
Well enough for this weekend. I think I am going fishing tomorrow!!!
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 07-11-2015, 06:48 AM
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Rip,
Going fishing! I haven't done that in years. We have two ponds on our land, one leaks dry, which is a easy fix, the other I'm going to have stocked. It has catfish, and 2 large koi's in it. I want to put some bass, and blue gills in it also. They say after a couple years I can fish them.

To remove the T strips, you'll need to remove the back window panel, then drill out the rivets along the strips, it still won't come out. You will need to find the spot welds along it, and drill through them. The rain gutters are on the back side of the quarters, and the T strips are on the front side of the quarters. I believe you'll find more surface rust then you want to think there is. I cleaned mine up, and going to put my rust seal on the edge to stop future rust from starting.

I bought the rivets, and I'm going to re-rivet it all back together, It' easy to do, and holds tight.

To split the belt line, you'll need to remove the insert on the door jam of the "B" pillar. I heated the nut inserts from the back side with a propane torch, and the screws came right out. You'll need to split three spot welds on the back panel edge, and a spot weld on the inside of the brace that goes there to the sub-frame. You will need to split all the spot welds around the top, and front of the quarter window. I I drilled them then I used a air chisel, and it went quick. Then you'll have to remove the bolts along the bottom edge, then you'll have to work the top lip off the roof framing, and work it to the front "B" pillar, which is folded over also. Don't pull outward top hard, you might bend the outside edge a little, trust me, I did, but it's a easy fix. You'll find a bunch of heavy surface rust under the belt line.

It goes back on a LOT easier then it comes off. I'm glad I did mine, I know it would have been a problem down the road. I through the top panels into my molasses tank, and they have been soaking for almost two weeks. I just have not had the time to remove them, and clean them off.

Good luck.

Pat
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 07-11-2015, 11:56 AM
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Does it have to be riveted or can you bolt it?

I'm sorry if I miss something I haven't kept up with your thread here, do you plan on epoxy priming all your stuff before you reassemble, because that is what you should do.

Brian
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 07-11-2015, 01:23 PM
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Brian,

The riveting back of the T Strips won't be a problem. I have many years riveting experience on aircraft. I also have a 3X gun and a variety of bucking bars. I really do think a person could just bolt it together if they were so inclined. Maybe even use recessed head screws.

I am glad you stepped in Brian, as I was going to ask you what type of primer I should I use on this to be compatible with a Base-Clear system? What do you recommend product wise?

Fishing was good this morning, I caught 3 good pan trout.
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Old 07-11-2015, 02:18 PM
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Rip,
3trout, Umm. I love eating fish, the wife, not so much!

You cam screw it back together, I have been putting on, and taking off the parts with 10/32 screws, you wouldn't have to use recessed screws, the rivet heads on the outside are round heads. You would have to drill each hole bigger if you wanted to use bigger bolts, the holes are only for 3/16 rivets, I think about .210 dia hole. When I am done screwing around, and ready to install them for the last time, I will rivet them. For the size they will be stronger, and tight, and look clean. I also have other parts that were riveted, that I have taken a part, that I have to rivet back together. in fact, I have to install about 55-60 rivets!

I had to change the dash mounts ( see pictures) when I changed my cowl, they get riveted in. The round head in back, and counter sunk in the door jam.

I am coating the seams, and rain gutters with the rust seal, and then epoxy primer on everything. I have everything down to bare metal.

Oh, I didn't get the parts cleaned today either, I had to mow.

Pat
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 07-11-2015, 10:30 PM
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Hey Pat? Do you have any detail pictures of the bottom of the B pillar? I know I have a problem with the drivers B pillar where it attaches to the sub rail and would like to see how it is supposed to be.

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Old 07-12-2015, 06:30 AM
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Rip,
I am going outside to mow in a little while, it takes me 4 1/2 hrs, good thing I started yesterday, after I get done, I'll take some pictures of the "B" pillar mounting. I have the insert off, so it will show the insides. I'll post them later for ya. If you need any other pictures, just ask, mine is apart to the point, I can show just about anything on it.

I don't know if I asked you this before, Do you have the spare tire mount, the part that bolts to the body, and are you going to use it?

Pat
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Old 07-12-2015, 02:35 PM
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Rip,
I got you some pictures of the passengers side. It's hard to see the rivets that hold it to the sub-frame, in the pictures. The little tubes you see are around the screws, are spacers (they slip off), that hold the insert out flush to the "B" pillar. There are some washers over some of them to shim them in spots also.

I actually got my parts cleaned. I started to mow, and it started to rain, so I started to clean my parts, and it stopped raining, and the sun came out. I pressure washed them, and they sure turned out clean. That molasses does work good.

Pat
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 07-12-2015, 07:54 PM
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I appreciate the pictures Pat!

Hmmm the photos are making me have bad thoughts about what I am going to find when I open them up. I am thinking some ugly internal rust. Well away I go I guess.

My body table I am using is my old motorcycle air lift table. It has what they call ATV extensions on each side to make it wider. The dimensions are about 6ft X 40". I had the body setting on it while I started on cutting rotten sheet metal off. It was just a bit to narrow and a bit too short to feel comfortable working on.

My solution is to build a plywood platform to set on top of the lift The base frame of the deck is going to be notched out underneath to drop over the table and it will make me a nice flat 4' X 8' platform I can move up and down depending on what I need to get to. It will also be a nice flat level straight surface so the body can be completed easier.

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Old 07-13-2015, 05:55 AM
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Rip,
Ya, I have ran into a can of worms every time I turn around, and my coupe body looked good till I started to work on it. I bought it from a body guy, and I learned my lesson on that. He could hide the rust, but it was not fixed right! But! I will not worry about rust showing it's ugly head again when I'm done. I am glad I found it all now, and not after I had painted!

It went from the primer'd picture, to the bare metal picture. When I tap on it now, it sounds like metal, before, it made a dull thump sound.

Mine is sitting on it's frame, which is not done yet, and that is sitting on a leveled 2"x3" steel tube frame. It's 103" x 32" the size if the frame, and the right height for a chair or stool, and to sit inside/under it. I built it to weld up the frame, for the wife's '27 Tudor Sedan, I had built the frame for that also. I can bolt on all the fenders, aprons, and running boards, while it's sitting on it, for fitting.

Pat
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Old 07-13-2015, 08:55 AM
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Your T looked pretty good in the beginning. It looks like you are getting the upper hand now. My T looked to be on its way to repairs and at first glance as the serious damage was hidden. I don't think the person that did the patches was a body man.

My T will soon look like yours all apart and hopefully on its way to stop all the rust. A lot more work than I wanted but I just couldn't leave it that way.

This week I am spending some time in the shop cleaning it up and moving things around so I can get on to the frame and get it to roller condition.
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Old 07-22-2015, 08:10 PM
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Rip,
Here is the pictures I told you I have, I hope they help you.

The replacement screws I bought are 1 1/8" long, so if you drill the heads off, there is plenty left to grip.

I told you that you need to remove the door latch also, you don't! I soaked everything in my molasses vat, so I removed them also. You have to remove two rivets on each to get them off, the door jam strip. (What ever it's called)

If you need anything else, just ask.

pat
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Old 07-22-2015, 10:19 PM
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Thanks for the detail photos Pat,

I see now that My attempt to spray the bolt with PB Blaster was in vain because of the tubes. I tried to use alternative holes to direct the spray to the screws but with the tubes in place I missed that boat.

The body is going to be moved maybe Saturday so I can get it on the table and lower the body to make it easier to reach things.

So far my observations have noted some significant damage to the lower end of the B pillars. I think I am going to have to do some fabricating on both pillars. I guess this thing is going to go down to almost nothing. Aw well I wasn't in a hurry now was I?

You are right when you say "This is fun" It is but sometimes I get a bit Funded out!! ha ha I will let you know early next week what I have found when I get to tearing into it..

BTW I hope your parts come in soon and about that new helmet..... Yes it is a requirement you must tell the other half you can't use a new welder without a new Hood. You have to match the weld frequencies or something like that. I recently dug an old auto dark helmet I had from 10 years ago out of the obsolete pile and replaced the broken headband and realized it was the best helmet I ever owned. I can actually see using this hood so I am a happy camper now..
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