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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 07-23-2015, 06:26 AM
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Rip,
heat the screws from the back side. I used a propane torch on mine, and it worked good.

I understand the "funded out" part, I'm on the, sell something to buy something type budget, for the most part.

Not in a hurry, that only goes to getting parts, not getting -r- done.

After you open that can of worms (B pillars) you can go fishing again. Oh well, it sounded good.

Here's a couple of pictures of the car I was talking about.

have a good day

Pat
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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 08-13-2015, 10:25 PM
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Well I wish I was a lot farther along but progress is slow but steady.
I finally pulled the body back off the frame and onto the platform lift. I fussed with the B pillars a bit but decided to get back on the frame as getting it to roller stage was most important. I need to get my 23 T coupe out of it's corner so I can clean and tune the car so I can sell it. I need to sell it to finish the 27.

So with the frame measured and set and locked in place it was time to do the upper cross members. There are a total of 4 cross members not counting the front one and they are different sizes.

The rear most is right above the diff and doubles as the mounting points for the coil overs. That cross member is 2 1/2in X 2 1/2in X 3/16in wall.

Moving forward the next cross member is actually the number 3 body mount cross member it is 1 1/2in X 2 1/2in box tubing 1/8 wall.

Continuing forward to the number 2 cross member it is the same dimensions as the number 4 cross member (2 1/2in X 2 1/2in)Box tubing 3/16 wall.

Finally the last cross member is the number 1 body cross member. The number 1 cross member uses 1 1/2in X 2 1/2in box tubing 1/8 wall.

There is more bracing that tie the lower portions of the frame rail together in the front and rear also, They add rigidity to the frame. but they won't go in till Engine / Transmission gets mocked. Then a total of 3 lower braces. The whole thing top and bottom is connected when all of the components are finished and installed.

Right now the rear four link is giving me fits with mounting on the forward part of the bars. I am starting to think that keeping and now using this bargain basement 4 link I had may have been a bad idea! I am wanting to keep the 4 link within the inside of the frame rails but doing so makes the attachment width to the rear axle real narrow.

Mind you inside dimension of the frame in the rear is only 38in. My problem is 38in to start, then you need at least an inch between the frame and mount bracket so you can install the nut on the 4 link attach bolt, and that is times two so you start out at 36" wide and by the time you make allowances for bolt clearances and other little bits of real estate you lose space and by the time your done you wonder where did the space go. I have some more metal on order and should get it early next week. I have some ideas about how to get the links closer to the frame....Film at 3:00

Anyway a couple a pictures.
First one is Command and /control for my project. Notice a very messy desk, Internet,and a 20 inch hi def tv. Some of my best ideas come to life there.

Here is a shot of the cross members just laying on the frame.

Oh, a shot of the body setting on the platform lift.

And finally just a quick shot of the body on the platform and my new sub rails just roughly setting in place.
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old 08-15-2015, 06:30 AM
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The body sub-frame... is there a reason you made the body fit the deuce frame, rather than modify the rear portion of the deuce frame to fit a stock body?

All the sexy curves will be hidden by the rear tires.

Just curious.

______
John
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  #49 (permalink)  
Old 08-15-2015, 01:22 PM
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John, I thought long and hard about which way to go cut frame or modify body pieces. I looked at a lot of Model T and Model A bodies that set on a deuce frame and almost every one they cut the rear frame to make it fit.

When you cut the frame you change the way it looks and I never saw one cut I really liked. They look like it was an after thought to make the frame fit. I actually found that by changing up and changing the body sub frame I could make the body sit stock and look like it was made that way.

The other reason I decided to change the body sub frame was it was so rotted it needed to be replaced from the doors back. As there are no replacement sub frames available and the used ones need just as much work.
It was a close decision and I have a ton of drawings showing it done both ways. I finally decided to do the modified body sub rails just because not a lot of people do that..

I guess I am what they call contraire. I like to do the less common and opposite things people expect..

I think when you see it complete and all together you will understand why I went that route. You will see what appears to be a UN-molested deuce frame with a stock T body on top as if it were made to be that way.
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  #50 (permalink)  
Old 08-15-2015, 07:22 PM
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Rip,
It's good to see working on your T. I have been so busy with other things, I have not touched my coupe since I bought my new welder. I bought a S10 last week, and just really looked at it Friday! It has a bad motor, but it came with a replacement one, plus I have another one in my shop, from a Blazer I use to own. It got eat'n by metal mites, and I scraped the body.
So now I have to change the motor, and try to work on the coupe also! But first, I have to go, and bring home a 100 year old player piano, I bought my wife to play. Got to keep the wife happy, or no ones happy! Besides, she had been telling me she wanted a piano for, Ohhhhh 15-20 years. So after I bought a welder, tools, and a truck, she asked what was she getting? Now I have to move it myself. I just made two dollies to put it on, now I have to make something to lift it up with. A lever and blocks. It's a really heavy piano!

Some women just put $3,800.00 into the piano, moved two years later, to a new house, and can't get it into the house, no way! I told her, sheet rock work isn't that bad to have done, I would have gone right through the garage wall, into the house with it. But! I paid her, her $100.00 asking price first! And the wife is happy! Wait till I tell her I want to put a V8 into the truck.

Pat
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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 10-01-2015, 10:08 PM
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Slow but steady progress

The days are a bit cooler now but I am slowly moving closer to my first goal and that is to have a rolling chassis setting on 4 tires before December.

I am closing in on that goal.

Lets see I have the front cross member in and welded it one pass. It will need a second pass to make me comfortable. The Body cross members are all tacked I repeat tacked only! I built a custom set of 4 link brackets for the forward end of the rear 4 link. They are currently clamped to the frame where they need to be, subject to my last thoughts on ride height!

The differential 4 link brackets are welded to the Ford 8.8 rear end and all the stock brackets removed. The rear is setting in place at ride height and connected to the 4 links. I have a perfect location or my panhard bar so that can be done real soon. I do have some work to do on the rear of the frame but that is cosmetic not structural.

Cross members continue to be the current theme. I got all but 1 in right where they needed to be and the one that was off was me not thinking ahead and seeing "The Big Picture". I had the cross member too close to the rear diff and would have been in the way on bumps.

I cut the offending square cross member back out and went to a plan B. I am going to use a round tube rear cross member and move it aft of the diff. I have it wedged in at the moment so I can make final adjustments and measurements before tacking all the brackets in place.

I still have lower structure to add to the frame for rigidity and for the trans mount but that will be part of phase 2 next.

Well back to work or should I say play. I haven't had this much fun in many many moons..
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  #52 (permalink)  
Old 10-26-2015, 08:00 PM
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A small milestone completed!!

I completed a small milestone today on the TCoupe Project.

Today I tacked the last components of the coupe rear suspension in place. I still need to pick up my coil overs but for the time being I will use a couple of pieces of light box tube to hold the suspension at the ride height.

I have run all the numbers and every thing landed exactly where I needed it two. The Coil Overs I had selected are right in the middle of the most common models out there so I am happy with that. I will pick up the coil overs at a later time.

Now that the rear suspension is mocked into place I can shift from the rear to finishing up the front end. I need to weld the lower brackets for the 4 link and hang a frame bracket for the panhard bar. That will complete stage 1 the basic chassis stage.

Here are a couple of shots of Bump Stop Mounts I built today.
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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 10-27-2015, 06:29 PM
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Kool! Your moving right along.
I have been so busy with other things, like rebuilding a S10. I've had to do a lot more fixing, then I thought I had to do to make it right. I am also adding factory PB, PW, PM's, cruise control, tilt column, delayed wipers to it, besides everything else I'm, fixing, and the replacement motor is on the stand waiting to go in.
But I will get back on my T before long. I'm going to go pick up the front axle here soon for it. It's a 4" drop original Henry axle. I'm going to hang it with a wish bone, instead of the 4 link.

Glad to see your doing alright.

Pat
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  #54 (permalink)  
Old 10-27-2015, 08:13 PM
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Good to see ya on here Pat!

Hey I know all to well about those projects that just seem to require everything and then some..

Tomorrow is "Tidy Wednesday" in the shop so I am going to try and get things squared away and get setup to finish off the front end.

I am looking forward to hear of your next exploits on the TCoupe.

The Best to you and the family,

Rip
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Old 12-02-2015, 06:16 PM
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Hey Rip,
How you been doing?
I have been working on my shop putting up plastic sheeting for a ceiling till I can get some rock to put up. I also put up 9-8 ft lights, and 3-4ft lights. Damn, I can see things again, these eyes don't see in the dark like they use to. lol
I also picked up a different left rear fender. It sure has it's weight in mud on it,, but from the inside, it looks good, except where the running board bolts up, and some holes on the rear near the bottom. Should be easy to fix...should be.

I'm nearing the end of fixing my S10. There was not one part that I looked at that didn't need fixing, or replacing on that thing! But, I'm not driving it yet! I replaced the front hoses, and brakes, but now that it's running, they slowly go to the floor. I see wet inside the left rear wheel!!! And every other time I start it, the gas gauge pegs, I checked, and it seems to have a good ground on it.

I NEED to get back on my Coupe, it's been to long!

Pat
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Old 12-02-2015, 10:11 PM
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Pat,

Good to see you,

The winter sucks for working in the shop but we do what we do right?

I been building a Gantry crane for the shop. was getting it ready for assembly and the bargain beam I got was bowed more than I was comfortable with. It seems the beam had been cracked and then repaired and painted over. Probably been that way forever but seeing it made me uncomfortable. I went and bought a new 6" S Beam it's .230 thick and 3.3" Flange and 6" web. It is not light at 12.5 Lbs per foot weighs about 100 Lbs. I switched the brackets this morning from the old beam to the new beam and now just need to levitate the beam to the top of the crane legs. and finish the "SLD's".

When my replacement disk rotors get here Friday I will have a rolling chassis for the coupe. I finally gave up on getting bearings to work in my wonder hubs and went with a set of Speedway Chevy Rotors drilled for ford pattern [email protected] 1/2". Couldn't resist. No Mus No Fus $125 for rotors, bearings, and seals. And they are made to use my GM Metric Calipers!!!

I will soon be ready to start the serious bodywork on the Body starting with removing and replacing the belt line and other related items then the B pillars then the cowl and so on and so on and so on..... Oh I have to pull the running gear from the donor so I can finish the mounts and lower cross members on the frame.. Oh all this before lunch, ha ha ha ha ha hah.. Remember I got one of them TV Deadlines and I only have about 2 more years to finish it.

Your mileage may vary,

Rip
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Old 12-03-2015, 06:37 PM
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Rip,
Ya, winter sucks, That's why we moved from Mn down to Tn. After being here for seven years, it's cold down here too! lol It finally quit raining here. It's been 65-70 in the sun here, but this week it's only going to be in the 55-65 range. but down to 32-40 at night. Where did I put those long john's, and heavy socks?

I put up a 16" heavy duty exhaust fan to the outside, and four vents that I can open, or close, in the ceiling to exhaust any fumes I make and for painting/primering. I also have a house furnace to install in my shed. (the shed is built on the back of the shop, and as long as the shop.) to heat my shop, but, I'll set it up later, I have other ways for warmth for now. My neighbor has a HVAC unit, that I can have, for the shop if I want it also.

I'm going to use Monte Carlo rotors, and Chevelle calipers on the front of mine. I don't care that the bolt pattern is different.

Dead line.......what's that?

Pat
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Old 12-03-2015, 07:54 PM
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Dead Line.. We don't have any stinkin deadlines.. That is what is fun. I like self imposed ones.

My Gantry crane suffered a setback when I discovered a damaged beam that had been covered over with bad welds and lots a paint. This beam was part of my "CraigsList" buy for 65 bucks. Not a big loss.. Rather than trust a unknown I picked up a new virgin 6 in S (I) beam. $129.00 for the beam but cheap insurance.

I finished all the work on the beam and am hopefully going to lift the beam and run the legs under. I will have just the jury struts to install and it will be done and ready to lift the chassis this weekend so I can put the wheels on and roll it off the frame bench. I have some hired gorillas coming by tomorrow to lift the beam and set it on the legs. I have offered free prime Rib Lunch if they suceed in setting the beam on the legs. I will flatten their tires next time I see them if they don't show!!! I will post a couple of pictures when we get the thing standing.

Here are a couple of pics one shows the Leg and the other is of the beam. oh and the beam is upside down.
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Old 12-04-2015, 06:18 AM
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Your beam setup looks nice. I know a guy that has one built into his garage, and can pick up something anywhere in his garage, he has a smaller area though. I like that fact that you can move it anywhere, even outside if you need to. Cool! I sure could use one at times. I'm going to have to do something about putting my body on, and off.
Right now I can hassle it on, and off, but shortly, I won't be able to do it that way any more. I've lost 85lbs since March, and I can't hard butt, it into it any more, so, I guess I'll have to do something a long that line. I always have my younger neighbors (25-30yrs old) help me, but I can't get them usually right when I need them.

My dead line right now is, between when it warms up, till I get tired, or if the boss needs me!

Prime rib, hmmm, need any more help?

Keep up the good work, Pat
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Old 12-07-2015, 06:29 PM
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First Major Milestone accomplished

Well I finally accomplished my first Major Milestone today! I finally have a rolling chassis.

I used my new Gantry crane to lift the chassis up and remove the frame rack and then put the wheels and tires on to complete the transition.

Next task will be yanking the engine and trans from the Donor Car. Once I get them inside I am going to turn some efforts to getting the structure of the body finished. Yep I should be busy for the rest of the winter...
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