So after trimming cutting and fitting and some fixing I have the bottom of the passenger door fit and welded up.
However it was not without incident. The cutting and fitting went very well but when it was time to weld... The old 91 year old steel and my relative inexperience with welding old metal to 18 GA new steel rears its head. I did good at first and if it blew a hole I would cool the whole piece before I went on. Then it struck.. The old "I can fix that little hole by welding more on and blowing a bigger hole. I chased the holes way to far and when I stopped to come to my senses I realized I needed to STOP what I was doing and figure out what I was doing wrong?
To shorten the story I watched a lot of video, read about different techniques, Did some practicing trying various techniques and finally figured out my technique.
It all boils down proper angles and backing up every old steel seam with Copper. I cut a strip of 035 copper sheet. I mounted the strip on top of a small block of wood and held it to the wood with some foil HVAC tape. I positioned the strip and clamped it to the panel to be my heat sink.
I cut away the bunged up metal and mate two patches out of 18 GA and using the copper I was able to tack and weld the repair piece in and never blew through once! I like using this 035 copper better than aluminum cause the copper is more malleable and it did a awesome job! This was actually fun doing this even when I was getting frustrated but more rewarding when it finally clicked!
I have the inside lower part of the door complete on the passengers door but I am not going to cut the outer skin all the way off till I get this part done on the drivers door. When both doors are ready for the skin replacement I will do both doors at basically the same time. That is so I can clean and prime the interior of both door shells and the back side of the skins before assembly. Then I will have the inside all epoxy protected and ready to be assembled.
Now to move along to something I discovered today measuring the front "A" Pillar. The passenger door had been hitting the top of the A pillar when you tried to close the door and I found the cause is a Bent A Pillar. about 10 to 12 inches down from the top on the right A pillar it makes a almost imperceptible lean rearward. If you put a straight edge on the drivers A pillar starting at the top and going down to the center of the pillar the drivers is straight absolute flat.
Do the same thing on the passengers side and there is a full 1/4 inch bend in the passengers A Pillar. from mid pillar to the top. Soooo I am going to have to take a little time and figure out how this happened so I can un happen it. My suspicion is someone picked the body up with a forklift on the strips of metal the top attaches to between the A and B Pillar at the top. I dunno I think I will have to set down and smoke on this!! Looks like I am going to have to "Endeavour To Persevere Again.