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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 05-05-2009, 06:38 PM
 
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ohh yea theres a TON of posers on here! evidently i'm not a marine and i havnt done 2 combat tours in iraq and i dont know a lick of mechanics or grammer..... power to us young guns who have built motors young! and health to those old dudes who hate life and have to share it with everyone else!!

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 05-05-2009, 07:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by usmcsawgunner
i'm not a marine and i havnt done 2 combat tours in iraq
Which weapon did you use and what did you find to be the most likely thing to snafu on it and what do you do to fix it?

Just curious, I like guns.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 05-05-2009, 07:54 PM
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I just love the smell of testosterone in the evening, when you "guns" get old/experienced enough to tell people "I don't know anything about automobiles" you can consider yourself an expert.

Anyway back to the OP, I run an engine at 2200-2500 for the first hour of its life to ensure the cam is broken in and make sure there are no leaks and the temperature stabilizes so its safe to drive. The next 1000 miles the rpm should not exceed 2/3 of redline to let the crank bearings have time to seat and then I change the oil. Mostly its about common sense, don't do anything stupid unless you clearanced the engine for race conditions.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 05-05-2009, 08:08 PM
 
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yes i am young too but doesnt mean i dont know something.

yes i have done a tour too CAMP VICTORY


i read the manufactures INSTRUCTIONS on the cam and follow there recomandation.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 05-05-2009, 08:29 PM
 
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i did one in haqlanyiah just south of hadithia in 06 i carried the 249 on foot patrols everyday seeing contact almost everyday.....love it!!! the only thing is you have to really know it or shell get outta line on ya. cleaning it every chance you get after firing it!....one time during a firefight i had to set the buttstock on the ground and kick the charging handle open to clear a jam...nuts!.....my other tour was in fallujah and sitcher in 08 i carried the m 16 w/ 203.....there wasnt much fighting going on more of finding ied and waiting on the eod teams to respond... so really the 203 was just bulky and in the way...i was in humvees the whole time that one...we shoulda just carried m16s and keep an m32 in the back.....

anyway back to the post i just installed a crate engine in my buddies 86 monte (i know lazy) i told him the same thing but anyway i ran it at 2200-2500 for 20 mins and then ran it on the street fairly mild for about 5 miles then on the highway for about 10 mins then changed the oil and told him to have fun....prolly 200 something miles on it and no issues....
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 05-05-2009, 09:57 PM
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The OP mentioned "track", so here is what I have always done 'breaking in' all "track" engines. I run them at 3000 rpm, and as the rpm increases I let it run at the increased speed for 2-3 minutes, then I drop it back down to 3000 rpm. I do this as many times as it takes, until the rpm stays steady, this usually takes about 30 minutes time. During this time I am busy checking, and setting the ignition timing, at the same time giving it a few rev's to check total timing advance. The oil and filter get changed, and inspected immediately upon shutdown. If it sounds good, runs good, and looks good, it's a done deal until after the first "track" day. I then change the oil and filter again after each, and every "track" day.

500 miles, a 1/4 mile at a time, might not ever happen when pushing them to their limits. 500 miles on a circle "track" would most likely happen during a single season. Keep in mind, these are 2 complete different engine builds to reach the finish line first. The final rear gear, plays a large part in 'longevity', and, or 'success'.

I break in a stock, or mild street build engine much the same way. Just 1 quick oil and filter change, and if it performs, it is good to go. I had one that drove from here, Lakeside, CA. to Pennsicola, Florida. and back, to pick up one of her son's. She's now back, and had no problems on her trip.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 05-05-2009, 11:09 PM
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After cam breakin 2200-2500rpm-30min+fliter & oil change. I use to this method. > http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 05-06-2009, 02:18 PM
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i didnt know there was that big of a difference
ill be sure to break my engine that way
i have had it running for about 8 months but it doesnt have any miles on it (maybe 15-20) so ill break it in when i get a windsheild and get it inspected
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 05-06-2009, 07:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
I'd agree w/richard stewart 3rd on varying the speed, keeping at or above about 2000 RPM.

The reason is, the cam is relying on oil being thrown from the rod journals for much of the lube it receives (along w/windage, lifter bores and the drain-back from the top end).

There will be varying amounts thrown around at different speeds. I believe by varying the RPM, the cam will be lubed more evenly on average. At just one speed, the cam might not be as evenly lubricated.

Once the cam's broken in and the oil and filter changed, I run the engine hard up to the torque peak, deaccelerating using engine braking. I don't "cruise" the engine- the RPM's are always varying for the most part.

Once I have a couple hundred miles on it and the second oil change behind me, only then will I run it up to redline, again varying the engine speed often.

The idea of redlining an engine w/20 minutes on it doesn't sit well w/me- but that's me.
I agree completely. This response saved me a lot of typing because I would have said the exact same things. The only thing I would add is that after cam break in to thoroughly warm to operating temp, do a few short 1/2 to 3/4 throttle accelerations, do a cool down and repeat the heat up and cool down cycles during the first few hundred miles. Worst thing on a new engine is to start it, let it run a minute or two, and then shut it down.
The few guys before and after your post who said that they break in a cam at a constant RPM are contrary to what most cam manufacturers recommend.
Terry
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 05-07-2009, 10:58 AM
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New engine break in

Do just what everyone else says. Run it at 1800 to 2000 rpm for 20 minutes or so then re-check valves. Cam break in is critical. After that if oil pressure is good and you don't here any unusual noises, GIVE 'ER HELL! If it's gonna break, it'll break now. Have fun. My 302 SBC has been together for over 35 years and it will still turn 7000 RPM anytime I want it to.
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Old 05-07-2009, 11:08 AM
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Wimpy old flat tappets...lol......go with a roller,seat the rings and put her to the mat......
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 05-07-2009, 11:11 AM
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new engine

Aside for the cam break in issue, I have run new engine every way from Sunday. I used to do the 500 mile, then oil change, then crack them. I did the sneak up on the rpm deal. I went through a phase where i just beat the living snot out of the customer engine the first time out, to see if i could break it before giving the car back to him.

In all those engines i can say that nothing ever really made a difference.

Here is something to think about, when i run my engines on the dyno(now these are roller cam engines, so no break-in is needed) we warm them up, make one or 2 partial pulls,then wing them. Zero issues.

So as someone with first hand experience i can say it really does not matter. If you find something that makes you feel goood it's ok to use that process..

The last engine i ran on my test stand i did a leak-down and compression test, before i started it, did both after, the numbers were exactly the same. Ran it in the car to LOAD the engine, tested it numbers the same as the fresh non started engine.

Keith
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 05-07-2009, 11:13 AM
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engine

Quote:
Originally Posted by BBCMudbogger
Wimpy old flat tappets...lol......go with a roller,seat the rings and put her to the mat......
You said what i said with 100 less words..L.O.L.


Keith
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