The subject pretty much says it. I know for a fact that sand blasting is oxidations end for sure, but is there any other method that will treat this problem?
And would like trying to wipe your butt with confetti... :drunk: :nono:Hwyhogg said:If the Napa guy told you epoxy is just a name of a product and sold you the etching primer in its place...RUN. I would never ask that guy if the sky is blue... Google the word epoxy and then Google epoxy primer. Epoxy is two parts...that are mixed together, not applied separately. Epoxy is a TYPE of primer, (two part). That would be like saying toilet tissue is a name, when in reality it is a product....Kleenex would be a Name,(brand), of tissue.
II searched a long time ego, when I first heard the word but it didn't make much sense to me:Hwyhogg said:If the Napa guy told you epoxy is just a name of a product and sold you the etching primer in its place...RUN. I would never ask that guy if the sky is blue... Google the word epoxy and then Google epoxy primer. Epoxy is two parts...that are mixed together, not applied separately. Epoxy is a TYPE of primer, (two part). That would be like saying toilet tissue is a name, when in reality it is a product....Kleenex would be a Name,(brand), of tissue.
Now epoxy primer:Epoxy or polyepoxide is a thermosetting polymer formed from reaction of an epoxide "resin" with polyamine "hardener". Epoxy has a wide range of applications, including fiber-reinforced plastic materials and general purpose adhesives.
So I'm still not sure what is it exactly? Are these two things in cans, you spray one over another? Are they in bottles, you mix them and paint with a brush (probably not haha) or do you need to mix them and use a paint gun (which I don't have and I think they're expensive). In what containers are they even sold, what are they like, powder, liquid, paste etc?Epoxy primer/sealer is a non-porous finish that is typically recommended as the first basecoat over bare steel. Various epoxy primers can also be applied over fiberglass, plastic, or the black iron phosphate coating that remains after "converting" rust.
Come on, you just can't throw decades of someone's experience out of the window. It's not like he used it yesterday and thinks it worked. He actually saw those cars years and years later, thus the results are well documented. I think this merits to be tried at least...roger1 said:Also, "conversion" of rust is a myth. There will still be rust. Get rid of the rust and work with clean metal. Also forget the Ospho. Prep the clean metal with 80 grit D/A scratches, use a waterborne wax and grease remover, and spray 2 coats of a high-quality epoxy on the metal. Ospho on clean bare metal is a waste of time and can be detrimental. Use Ospho on your outdoor furniture but use quality automotive products on your car body. For automotive use, epoxy has the best adhesion to properly prepped metal bar none.
obviously someone that never used it....its more like navel jelly with a hemi....I've only found three good ways to REMOVE rust (not convert it) ...roger1 said:Epoxy that comes in spray cans is not worth a darn. Forget that idea.
Also, "conversion" of rust is a myth. There will still be rust. Get rid of the rust and work with clean metal. Also forget the Ospho. Prep the clean metal with 80 grit D/A scratches, use a waterborne wax and grease remover, and spray 2 coats of a high-quality epoxy on the metal. Ospho on clean bare metal is a waste of time and can be detrimental. Use Ospho on your outdoor furniture but use quality automotive products on your car body. For automotive use, epoxy has the best adhesion to properly prepped metal bar none.
I really have to agree with Shine here...if you MUST skimp dont do it at this stage....its too important....skimp on ANYTHING else.after epoxy...but not this.After all ,everything else is cosmetic,without a good foundation it doesn't matter how pretty it is ,it wont last so your wasting your time....shine said:sorry but there is no way to do it "free" . i don't do what i cant afford, simple as that. good epoxy can be brushed or rolled. if 150 for epoxy is out of your reach so is building a hotrod.
phosphoric acid can be used to remove rust but it must be completely neutralized before epoxy.
CMR ,Your are exactly the kind of enthusiest I'm posting for...and my sole reason for joining HR.I've been in this biz for 35 yrs and know some pretty good ways to save a buck some that other old timers showed me and some I figured out on my own but trust me there are some things that you just CANT skimp on.CMR said:The problem with this thread is, after 13 pages, it doesn't do anything for the backyard builder. People don't want miracles, they just want their jalopy not to rust while they work on it. But not everyone can afford what people are pushing here. Doing it "the right way" costs a lot of money for people just starting out. Sure, a good can of epoxy primer isn't that expensive, but getting to where you can spray it is. Paint booth, spray guns, ventilation, filters, PPE gear, and so on, all that stuff adds up to a big chunk of change.
No. I haven't used it and don't ever intend to.deadbodyman said:obviously someone that never used it....its more like navel jelly with a hemi...