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Old 03-29-2017, 02:05 PM
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Safe Redline For a Forged Bottom End 383.

Hey guys, so my question is.

What would be a safe redline for the following pile of parts; Stock 96' 4bolt main 350 block, fully forged scat bottom end (3.750 H beam rods, forged pistons, forged crank ARP rod bolts), comp cams xfi 286 hydraulic roller cam, AFR 195cc heads (65cc combustion chamber 9.5:1 comp ratio) full comp head kit (valves, springs, guides, chromoloy pushrods, ARP head studs, ARP head bolts, not sure what head gaskets are on it, but they are multi layer metal steel/graphite I believe, hooker long tube headers out to a full 3in stainless exhaust, Edelbrock performer RPM air gap intake ported to the heads, and a summit racing 850cfm double pumper on top.

Thanks in advance for any info, Jarett.

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Old 03-29-2017, 02:17 PM
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7-7200

Approximate.

Prolly 400hp or so.
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Old 03-29-2017, 02:21 PM
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Hey John, thats about what I was thinking, good to know. Also forgot to say, I'm curious as I want to set the rev limiter on my new MSD HEi module, just to be safe . Also, it makes about 410hp to the wheels and 490 ft. lbs. to the wheels, just in case you were wondering.
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Old 03-29-2017, 03:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jarc17 View Post
Hey guys, so my question is.

What would be a safe redline for the following pile of parts; Stock 96' 4bolt main 350 block, fully forged scat bottom end (3.750 H beam rods, forged pistons, forged crank ARP rod bolts), comp cams xfi 286 hydraulic roller cam, AFR 195cc heads (65cc combustion chamber 9.5:1 comp ratio) full comp head kit (valves, springs, guides, chromoloy pushrods, ARP head studs, ARP head bolts, not sure what head gaskets are on it, but they are multi layer metal steel/graphite I believe, hooker long tube headers out to a full 3in stainless exhaust, Edelbrock performer RPM air gap intake ported to the heads, and a summit racing 850cfm double pumper on top.

Thanks in advance for any info, Jarett.

This should easily turn into 7 grand plus, the structural redline is probably a lot further up the ladder than is the usable power peak so where the power falls off will be the point where it is a wasted effort to push for more RPM beyond that point. Good thing about overbuilding the bottom end is there's space for a missed shift that doesn't result in a blown up engine.


Bogie
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Old 03-29-2017, 04:12 PM
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In a street/strip or drag race application the rotating assembly is good to 8500 rpm and probably a little more, with a good safe shift point up around 7600 rpm.

The cam and valvetrain is going to limit you 2000 rpm before that.
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Old 03-29-2017, 08:55 PM
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Hey everyone, thanks for the knowledge ? So im thinking ill set it at about 6800 for now with the current cam/spring setup. Also, yes hcompton, it is the xfi 268. And no, im not running efi, rather a carb. Long story short, i bought it from a guy who was gonna run efi on it, but decided he wanted more in the 800hp range lol.

Regards ~Jar
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Old 03-29-2017, 08:57 PM
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Also, yes, it is a truck block hcompton.
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Old 03-30-2017, 07:00 AM
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Your dead on hcompton, sadly I dont have the time or money for a cam swap, but when I start dragging it for funzies this summer I'll probably throw a bigger one in there, any suggestions? Also, its running through an M22 four speed, not the best for power loss but I love it personally And to be honest, at about 650 rpm idle it has a pretty mean lope, maybe I'll be able to get a video of it running later ;D But so far what I'm seeing is that it will make more than decent power, last forever and be quite driveable, correct? Thanks alot guys.

Peace, Jar.
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Old 03-30-2017, 07:17 AM
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set redline/chip at 6400 rpm for the "hydraulic" roller. You did not get the wrong cam, you got a smaller cam that can be changed later when you want to step up the power. The dyno graph (post it if you can) will tell you where exactly to set rev limiter.
If your torque number is way higher than your hp figure your cam could be changed for more.
The M-22 is a good road race transmission. The gear spread is not good for drag racing(unless you have another gear.
Talk to autogear about mods to make the Muncie last longer before you stretch a case and destroy the trans
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Old 03-30-2017, 09:11 AM
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I don't have the dyno graph as of yet, I'm waiting on the shop that conducted it. Good idea though. I do have a set of 411's that came with the car. And thanks for the trans info too, I'm new to all of this so the more the better One question regarding that, is it safe to just drive it at the moment (just typical everyday use, a little pull here and there without doing any work to the trans, or is that something I should look into sooner rather than later?

Thanks, Jar.
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Old 03-30-2017, 10:05 AM
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You can drive it and get on it...it is holeshots with sticky tires or dragstrip abuse that will hurt the trans.
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Old 03-30-2017, 11:07 AM
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As was said; if its in good repair, it's fine. Avoid Warren Johnson-esque Pro Stock launches, axle hop and grabby clutches. Use Brad Penn 80w90 "Classic Gear Oil" from Summit. Slightly over 1qt fill. Stick your pinky in the fill hole, bend your pinky at the first knuckle joint (right behind your nail) and your fingertip should just touch the oil. If this gearbox wasn't completely empty to start with; 1qt should do it. But, buy 2. Change the oil once a year.

Good Luck! Sounds like a fun ride!!
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Old 03-30-2017, 01:09 PM
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I don't plan on abusing it as of yet, she's still my baby ;D This is my first stick car, so I inherently shift slowly and carefully lol. The trans was rebuilt about 5k miles ago so wear isn't an issue, and I just recently replaced the gear fluid in it, with just the stuff you mentioned AutoGear (beginners luck huh). It has traction bars on the leaves so axle hop shouldn't be an issue if my thinking is correct, and I have all season 265 15 60's on the rear, so they break loose without too much trouble (the diff is also LSD).

Thanks to you all, Jarett.
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