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Old 08-15-2019, 02:21 PM
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SBC test stand

Ordered an engine cradle to run my 350 before install to fix any issues then and there. I am gonna mod the cradle to house the battery, gas can and radiator. Also make a panel for switches and gauges.

My question is looking the engine from front
my alternator is at the 10 o'clock position
Air pump at 8 o'clock
The ac and ps were at 2 and 4 o'clock but left in the car when pulled
Can I leave them off and attatch the one belt for the alternator and air pump. And run it to temp like that / does it affect the balance not having the ac ps belts attached.
Probably not but still want to ask.

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Old 08-15-2019, 02:52 PM
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You can run it without the mentioned accessories, won't hurt a thing.

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Old 08-15-2019, 03:02 PM
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I just recently helped my friend Ron Fab up a run stand. Here's how He build them...

All you Must have is the Water Pump, and route a coolant hose to connect the heater connections, I recall those being a 5/8 & 3/4 hose bib ?? You can Fab a bracket for a Serpentine belt Tensioner. If you might have a V belt, set up the tensioner to ride on the wide flat side on the belt.

If your using factory exhaust manifolds with the AIR fittings, then you'll need to plug them with brass plugs. Best to use the quietest mufflers that you can find. Removable mufflers(bolts) and consider pointing them straight up, easier on the Shins

Depending on your intake manifold you'll need to block off a few Vacuum lines.

I prefer an electric fan with shroud on the Radiator, on /off via radiator sensor and relay. safer for fingers etc.. I use the old 60's / 70's Idiot Light temp sensor @ 195 degrees that grounds the relay coil.

I prefer the battery on the same side (passenger) as the Starter.
A small fuel tank on the left side with a small electric line line external fuel pump, with an power switch next to the pump and wire routed to the On / Start Switch.

I highly recommend that you DON'T install a drip tray under the fuel tank !!

Wiring & swapping in a different engine is easier if you put the coolant sensorS, for the elect fan and Coolant Temp gauge, in the radiator coolant hose - tubes are available already Fab'd for coolant sensors.

Ron placed the Run stands Instrument mini panel on the front of the start which is the front of the engine. And It's bolted to a Push Bar, similar to a grocery store shopping cart.

Use large diameter Wheels, swivels in the front for steering..

Your stand may be a Side mount & Bell Housing Mount. Ron's can also bolt on a Trans and use it's tail shaft mount. Pretty darn handy..

Have Fun..

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Old 08-15-2019, 06:28 PM
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Thanks for your inputs guys
I will use the one belt for the alt wp and air pump with the 2 groove wp pulley and 3 groove crank pulley
I will run a radiator debating wether to use a elec fan or mechanical ..i got both ready to go. ...maybe elelc for cool point (that adds hp right?)
Will plum the air injection (2x 5/8 size hose from pump to each manifold
I Will be running a y pipe glass pack 45* elbow and turn down (sorry neighbors)
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Old 12-23-2019, 10:49 PM
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If the starter motor bolts to the block instead of the trans bellhousing, you can fire and run the engine right on the assembly stand. Open and close the throttle carefully, as the engine will tend to twist some from torque reaction.

I built a cart to hold the radiator, switches and gauges, wire harness, and battery. Engine driven fuel pump pulls fuel out of a red plastic jug. EFI or engines that don't have a fuel pump mount will require an electric pump. Legs swivel inward, so it can hang from the wall and not take up much space.

Exhaust system came from a '67 Dodge Dart I owned that was totaled. Added some flex-pipe in front to attach to most any exhaust manifolds.

I ran an Olds 455 for over an hour on the assembly stand. It did jiggle around some. I later learned to hook the engine crane to the front of the engine--any convenient lifting bracket on the intake or water-pump area. Reduces the jiggling.

Crap. My photos don't show up.

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